1999 Land Cruiser Electrical Issues, first post!!

[trevans24]

Hello! This is my first post, but not the first time on this site... I have used this site for multiple problems I have run into on my LC and they have all been useful to everything I have seen so far!!

Ok, so I want to talk about what I currently have going on. It started as what appeared to be the immobilizer no start issue.

• I replaced the EFI fuse and relay, no go...
• Was getting no connection from ECU through the OBDII port, replaced ECU, no go...
• Replaced all ATM fuses as those are cheap and I had a bunch around, no go...
• Looked into the fuse box as the culprit took it apart, didn't see anything obvious as an issue. Put it all back together and it allowed me to start it again
• Now after all that I have a different electrical issue
  • Power Locks don't work at all, switch or fob
  • Power windows don't work at all
  • Power seats don't work at all
  • Shifter stuck in Park
  • Horn doesn't work (was a current ongoing issue, no big deal but may be related)

Have any of you had this type of issue before?
I was searching through the forums and nothing that pointed to all of those items not working all at once, usually just Locks or Windows or Seats. I was testing fuses with a multimeter...
I was looking to consider replacing both Block Fuse Assembly (82620-60010) due to fuses in the assembly frozen in place, looks pretty warn down & Fuse Box (82720-60023) since taking it apart and plugging in everything again allowed me to start my rig, but thought I would ask here before spending another $600 on this!

Thanks for all your help!!

 

[trevans24]

I forgot to mention that the battery light is on in the dashboard and does not go away, even after starting the rig and letting it run a few minutes

 

[nissanh]

Use a volt meter and check the volatage at the battery. When engine is running without any accessories, you should see about 13.8 to 14.3 V.

 

[trevans24]

Use a volt meter and check the volatage at the battery. When engine is running without any accessories, you should see about 13.8 to 14.3 V.

Thanks for that! I just checked it was running 11.8V while running with no accessories, went to go get a new one. After pulling out the battery and putting in a new one it started all over again with the Immobilizer crank, no start. Called a local Toyota Shop that did my timing belt work and they confirmed it was a bad fuse box. So ordered part and awaiting shipping. Will hope this fixes the problem!

 

[YungTexx]

Thanks for that! I just checked it was running 11.8V while running with no accessories, went to go get a new one. After pulling out the battery and putting in a new one it started all over again with the Immobilizer crank, no start. Called a local Toyota Shop that did my timing belt work and they confirmed it was a bad fuse box. So ordered part and awaiting shipping. Will hope this fixes the problem!

If the voltage is that low while on it is probably an alternator. I went through rabbit hole this past week with the immobilizer/fuse box/relay issue but it was just the alternator. Piece of advice from someone who just picked up their cruiser from the shop. Take a look at the altnerator from the bottom and see its condition. If it looks old, it is probably because it is. Spend the $200 for a remanufactured denso and pay a buddy for an afternoon in beer and lunch. Dont be like me and spend $800 at a cruiser shop.

 

[nissanh]

If the voltage is that low while on it is probably an alternator. I went through rabbit hole this past week with the immobilizer/fuse box/relay issue but it was just the alternator. Piece of advice from someone who just picked up their cruiser from the shop. Take a look at the altnerator from the bottom and see its condition. If it looks old, it is probably because it is. Spend the $200 for a remanufactured denso and pay a buddy for an afternoon in beer and lunch. Dont be like me and spend $800 at a cruiser shop.

I think the issue is with the EFI fuse. There is an easy fix to the EFI fuse that powers the EFI relay. I have aone kit stand-by just in case this happens. Some LC 100's has this issue. You run a 12+ from battery post with an inline fuse to an external relay to power the EFI relay.

You can inffact check whether the EFI relay gets power while cranking if you have a test light and someone to crank the engine.

 

[trdcorolla]

If your 100 has a Alt-S diode mod for an additional .5v to an AGM battery make sure the Alt-S fuse isn't backwards. A backwards diode will make your battery light illuminate.

 

[VarCity69]

Thanks for that! I just checked it was running 11.8V while running with no accessories, went to go get a new one. After pulling out the battery and putting in a new one it started all over again with the Immobilizer crank, no start. Called a local Toyota Shop that did my timing belt work and they confirmed it was a bad fuse box. So ordered part and awaiting shipping. Will hope this fixes the problem!

 

[VarCity69]

Any fix to your issue? My battery light came on yesterday and now my 99 LC has no brake lights and is stuck in park. Battery is testing at 12.2 when not running, and 11.9 when idling. I’ve lost power to my seats, windows, and automatic locks. Battery is less than a year old and she starts no problem. Anyone have thoughts?

 

[diego355]

Any fix to your issue? My battery light came on yesterday and now my 99 LC has no brake lights and is stuck in park. Battery is testing at 12.2 when not running, and 11.9 when idling. I’ve lost power to my seats, windows, and automatic locks. Battery is less than a year old and she starts no problem. Anyone have thoughts?

Alternator