I rebuilt the master cylinder and drilled out the rusted screws on the abs pump motor recently. I bled all the brakes but not the abs valves yet. When driving I can make it about 5 miles then the brake pedal gets harder and all the brakes seem to want to stay locked. They do not want to retract. At first I thought it was a seized caliper but but I ended up checking all calipers and it was not. Would you recommend bleeding more and doing the techstream abs bleed? No indicator lights show up when this happens
1999 Brake Issue
- Thread starter cj10
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- #2
Also after inspecting the brakes and taking it on a test drive the CEL came on and indicated I have a faulty speed sensor. This was not on before. The gauge cluster also has what I suspect is a blown fuse since the speedo, tach, and odo are off. All other gauges and lights work
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- #3
Can the speed sensor cause the brakes to lock?
My 1999 just gave up the ghost on the brake hydraulic pump. Good times there as there were no brakes. 1999 doesn't have A-Trac so the computer is out of the equation for that functioning. I have not gotten Tech Stream yet so when I bled the brakes after replacing the entire unit, I took the truck down a gravel road and exercised the ABS multiple times to bleed it the only way I could. If it were me, I would bleed the brakes again, along with the ABS through Tech Stream. Then I would post up again waiting for smarter people than I. I do believe there is some functionality with the speed sensors that would cause the brakes to do something, just not sure as to what happens.
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- #5
After doing more digging I think it could be this
"Try this, when it is locked, open the bleeders. If fluid comes out and the rig moves, it is building pressure. This is most often caused by master cylinder push rod adjustment. If it is adjusted to far out, will block the return port, causing the system to build pressure. The fix is to pull the M/C and adjust the push rod on the booster slightly shorter."
"Try this, when it is locked, open the bleeders. If fluid comes out and the rig moves, it is building pressure. This is most often caused by master cylinder push rod adjustment. If it is adjusted to far out, will block the return port, causing the system to build pressure. The fix is to pull the M/C and adjust the push rod on the booster slightly shorter."
I thought the push rod is adjusted at the brake pedal arm under the dash? No need to pull the MC is there?
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- #7
That's correct you do not need to pull the MC to adjust the push rod. That was my issue though it was too far out not allowing brake fluid back into the reservoir