1996 fzj80 (Bruce) will be hitting the trails now

[chappysfj40]

Yes, its in your CDL. Needs that signal.

Last year I broke the harness that goes from the pass inner fender to the front locker. You can unplug it there and lock/unlock it there with a power probe. Thats how I got through the weekend.

So would I replace the sensor on the front of the tcase. Or the back one on top pass side?

 

[cruzinfj1]

I wouldn't replace anything, YET. Pull it out and hold it closed with your hand and see if it works. Might even be as simple as a plug not seated. If you have the lights flicker, and hear it, thats a good sign. Start soaking the crossmember bolts ahead of time. Makes it a lot easier to get up in there with the case lowered down some.

Check out this thread, they've got it all covered.

view-source:FZJ80 CDL Problem - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fzj80-cdl-problem.1019199/

 

[chappysfj40]

So I think I pulled out the correct piece. Put it back in. Drove around while I was doing figure eights in the backyard randomly the center diff lock light came on. Then I engaged the lockers and the new front motor engage the front locker when I thought drove around like that for a few minutes then shut it off or shut the locker off shut the center diff lock off. Now I can't get the diff lock to come back on or the center diff lock. Ugh

 

[cruzinfj1]

Sometimes you just gotta keep exercising them. Did you clean them up at all? Does the rear locker work? What kinda shape is your shift linkage in? Is the shifter binding up on the boot in the console? All the little things to check before you open your wallet and throw parts at it....

 

[chappysfj40]

the rear locker would not in gauge at all. i have the new motor but working out of town this week and can not install the new one. cruiser is loaded up for a little trail ride this weekend so i will continue to exercise the cdl and see if i can get it to light up.

so is the sensor the one at the back pass side of the tcase. the easiest one to take off. that is the one i took out.

 

[chappysfj40]

and thennnnnn..........
i put the cruiser on the trailer and once i parked it i noticed water dripping onto the trailer, and against my better judgment i popped the hood. ****ing hellll. should have left it shut. because all over the top tank of the radiator seem is wet..... bummer. still gonna wheel it till i cant this weekend. i have another rad from a 1992 that may work, not sure yet. or i will source another one next week.

 

[chappysfj40]

found this info. and i did not do it correctly


When you enage the CDL, either through the Center Diff Lock Dash Switch or through the 4 low range shift lever, the 4WD Indicator Switch (located on the front housing of your transfer case) is activated and provides a signal to the 4WD indicator light on your instrument panel. There is also a Transfer Neutral Position Switch (located next to the Transfer L4 Position Switch – drivers side) that provides a signal to the A/T indicator light on your instrument panel to tell the driver that the transfer case is in neutral.

this is the link

Troubleshooting the Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Center Diff Lock (CDL) -

A step-by-step tutorial on troubleshooting the Center Diff Lock on a Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser.

www.pnwadventures.com

i know there are more write ups here, but this is the first one i found

 

[chappysfj40]

I wouldn't replace anything, YET. Pull it out and hold it closed with your hand and see if it works. Might even be as simple as a plug not seated. If you have the lights flicker, and hear it, thats a good sign. Start soaking the crossmember bolts ahead of time. Makes it a lot easier to get up in there with the case lowered down some.

Check out this thread, they've got it all covered.

view-source:FZJ80 CDL Problem - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fzj80-cdl-problem.1019199/

this thread was awesome

 

[chappysfj40]

good am second wheeling trip
too fun.. this was in iowa at the TCCC, or tall corn cruiser classic. good event.
the good news. it turns out the center diff indicator light switch was the issue why my lockers would not work. first day there i stopped and flexed the rig out on a hill and pulled that switch thing. pushed the plunger in and out about 50 times. reinstalled and for the first half day the light would switch on and off. but after about half a day of flashing it just stayed on. and then sunday i drove to get fuel so took it out of low range light came off when to town, then came back went to low light was off. but after a few minutes it came back on. and since i had a front locker new motor that worked like a charm. so happy.

radiator is leaking m ore at the top tank, so new one is in order for sure.

upgrades... now that i have had it out a a couple time. or decisions i shall say.

33 is the max tire size i want. for the right deal. i mean has to be a smoking hot tire deal i would go 35s.
2-3 inch suspension lift. i dont want to lift it so much i have worry about drive train or other drama.
then i need to add some more body protection. more worried about breaking glass than i am dents. so a fender bar front and rear, redo the back cross member so it dont drag so much. make some sort of a angled front on the arb so its not such a plow but more of a slope.

and then this winter or late fall we will monster liner the out side

feels great to get back into wheeling small tires again and how much fun it is.

 

[chappysfj40]

first trip of the year will be spring break and heading to SMORR with bruce. 2 inch iron man kit is in route. and some need tires from walmart get put on this weekend.

 

[BucketEighty]

Maybe some @eimkeith dropped radius arm mounts with that 2” kit to correct the castor, correct the anti-dive, correct the roll steer, and stretch the front forward a little for tire clearance in the back of the fender wells?

 

[jkeithw]

Maybe some @eimkeith dropped radius arm mounts with that 2” kit to correct the castor, correct the anti-dive, correct the roll steer, and stretch the front forward a little for tire clearance in the back of the fender wells?

thx man! - appreciate that

 

[chappysfj40]

Maybe some @eimkeith dropped radius arm mounts with that 2” kit to correct the castor, correct the anti-dive, correct the roll steer, and stretch the front forward a little for tire clearance in the back of the fender wells?

do tell what parts your talking about, i am on the site but wanting to make sure i am correct

 

[jkeithw]

he's talking about these. hit me up with any questions - happy to help.

 

[chappysfj40]

ordered front and back deal.

 

[jkeithw]

thanks for the order!

 

[BucketEighty]

Post some pics of the lift install and new brackets. I’m digging the truck and the build philosophy. 80’s work so well in stock or near-stock form with 33’s and in my opinion anything more than a 2” lift really ruins the suspension performance and handling of an 80.

 

[jkeithw]

Post some pics of the lift install and new brackets. I’m digging the truck and the build philosophy. 80’s work so well in stock or near-stock form with 33’s and in my opinion anything more than a 2” lift really ruins the suspension performance and handling of an 80.

I'm into that philosophy; BL and cutting for big tires is my plan.

 

[chappysfj40]

Post some pics of the lift install and new brackets. I’m digging the truck and the build philosophy. 80’s work so well in stock or near-stock form with 33’s and in my opinion anything more than a 2” lift really ruins the suspension performance and handling of an 80.

i will do so for sure. looks pretty strait forward. and like you all said they just look and act so good in the near stock fashion. plus who does not like to show up to a wheeling event in the sleeper looking rig and just walk everywhere so to speak. ehehehehehe

 

[chappysfj40]

new tires are on, next is likt kit