Looks like you got your money's worth out of that t/o bearing!
Build 1994 Toyota Pickup Brain Transplant and Facelift - Laramie Wyoming
- Thread starter Boomslang86
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
PROJECT UPDATE:
TL;DR @ Bottom.
Qs Summarized @ Bottom.
Questions are in orange.
Links are in the mustard yellow color.
Parts to buy are in purple.
Costs are in red.
I have made some decisions about this project.
I am in discussions with a seller for a 300SD (OM617) donor car.
I need some guidance on a couple of things...
Here is an updated and expanded To-Do list:
1 [ X ] — Remove 3VZE. ... [scrap / free pile.]
2 [ ] — Order transmission & t-case. ... Marlin $1,669.00 [T-Case???] $???
3 [ ] — Remove transmission & t-case. ... [inspect t-case; ship one or both to Marlin.]
4 [ ] — Remove fuel tank and fuel lines. ... [Drain, clean, dry.]
5 [ ] — Purchase OM617 donor car. ... [Transport to Laramie.] ~$2,500.00
6 [ ] — Pull OM617 from donor. ... [Donate / scrap / sell donor.]
7 [ ] — Inspect OM617.
8 [ ] — Order maintenance parts for OM617. Peach Parts ~$200.00
9 Suspension & A.D.D. repair. [See my next post, Below, for tech articles on the A.D.D. system.]
— I. [ ] — Repair A.D.D. system.
— II. [ ] — Install Old Man Emu suspension.
10 [ ] — Maint. OM617.
11 [ ] — Install all conversion parts on OM617. Doomsday Diesel ~$1800.00
12 [ ] — Install new fuel pump on OM617 (for added HP). Diesel Meken ~$900.00
13 [ ] — Install OM617.
14 [ ] — Install transmission & t-case.
15 [ ] — Install new fuel tank?
[Decent aftermarket diesel fuel cell for this make/model?? If not, I'll probably just keep the existing tank. What is the best way to deliver fuel to the engine in this set-up??]
16 [ ] — Install new fuel lines.
[looking around for stainless steel braided?]
17 [ ] — Install gauges
[Temp, Pyrometer, Boost, Oil Pressure, Tach, Speedo.] [Need a good thread on how to set up gauges properly / which are best quality.]
18 [ ] — Install electric fan.
[Best product for this project?] [Also, I installed a new radiator when I did the water pump / timing belt not too long ago. Can I use the same radiator? How does one determine what capacity / flow-through an engine's radiator was spec'd to? How can I tell if my radiator is up for it? Is more cooling simply and always better than less? Should I buy a hi-performace radiator and call it a day?]
19 [ ] — Install switches w/ guards and wiring for lights Hella 550s, winch, dumping bed, [future projects], etc.
20 [ ] — Shop @ new exhaust system. [I don't want my truck to make any noise at all, if possible, and I don't want it to lose any power. What's the best option for me, reaching for both of those criteria? ha.]
21 [ ] — Order new body panels or patches. [anyone can swipe a credit card... ಠ_ಠ ] $xxx.xx??
22 [ ] — Install new body panels or patches. [yuur outta yuur element, donny...!]
23 [ ] — Shop @ roof-top rust issue. [yikes... hopefully not too painful.] $xxx.xx??
24 [ ] — Shop? @ paint. [Later project.] $x,xxx.xx??
[How are people getting the Toyota AC system to work with the OM617? I laid my unit aside without disconnecting the lines when I pulled the 3.0. Is it possible to mount it up so it can run off one of the OM617's pulleys??]
[Is there any provision from the t-case for PTO? Has anyone mounted hydraulic equipment on their trucks? I'm thinking ahead to my plan for a dumping bed, and, possibly, a hydraulic winch, if I can figure out the hydraulic requirements. Probably totally not worth it. But I like to make sure its not worth it, before writing it off.]
Current rough, rough estimated total: ~$7,000.00.
Probably more like 9 or $10,000.00, all done.
Hopefully I can find a cheaper donor... but this one might be worth it.
It's in great shape, I think: Low milage, desert climate, a/c storage for over a decade, no smoke.
Taking it in for a compression test Monday.
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
TL;DR / Too Long; Didn't Read / Summary:
This post is an expansion of my OP, with many details / decisions finalized / hammered down.
Question Summary:
Q: Can I use my existing radiator?
Q: Quietest exhaust without sapping power?
Q: How to hook up the AC compressor to the OM617?
Q: Best gauges?
Q: Best fuel lines?
Q: Aftermarket fuel cell for this model / make?
Q: Best write up for SAS? [ No longer considering SAS; will repair A.D.D. or, eventually, go to manual air locker. ]
Any help with outstanding questions would be much appreciated!
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
TL;DR @ Bottom.
Qs Summarized @ Bottom.
Questions are in orange.
Links are in the mustard yellow color.
Parts to buy are in purple.
Costs are in red.
I have made some decisions about this project.
I am in discussions with a seller for a 300SD (OM617) donor car.
I need some guidance on a couple of things...
Here is an updated and expanded To-Do list:
1 [ X ] — Remove 3VZE. ... [scrap / free pile.]
2 [ ] — Order transmission & t-case. ... Marlin $1,669.00 [T-Case???] $???
3 [ ] — Remove transmission & t-case. ... [inspect t-case; ship one or both to Marlin.]
4 [ ] — Remove fuel tank and fuel lines. ... [Drain, clean, dry.]
5 [ ] — Purchase OM617 donor car. ... [Transport to Laramie.] ~$2,500.00
6 [ ] — Pull OM617 from donor. ... [Donate / scrap / sell donor.]
7 [ ] — Inspect OM617.
8 [ ] — Order maintenance parts for OM617. Peach Parts ~$200.00
9 Suspension & A.D.D. repair. [See my next post, Below, for tech articles on the A.D.D. system.]
— I. [ ] — Repair A.D.D. system.
— II. [ ] — Install Old Man Emu suspension.
10 [ ] — Maint. OM617.
11 [ ] — Install all conversion parts on OM617. Doomsday Diesel ~$1800.00
12 [ ] — Install new fuel pump on OM617 (for added HP). Diesel Meken ~$900.00
13 [ ] — Install OM617.
14 [ ] — Install transmission & t-case.
15 [ ] — Install new fuel tank?
[Decent aftermarket diesel fuel cell for this make/model?? If not, I'll probably just keep the existing tank. What is the best way to deliver fuel to the engine in this set-up??]
16 [ ] — Install new fuel lines.
[looking around for stainless steel braided?]
17 [ ] — Install gauges
[Temp, Pyrometer, Boost, Oil Pressure, Tach, Speedo.] [Need a good thread on how to set up gauges properly / which are best quality.]
18 [ ] — Install electric fan.
[Best product for this project?] [Also, I installed a new radiator when I did the water pump / timing belt not too long ago. Can I use the same radiator? How does one determine what capacity / flow-through an engine's radiator was spec'd to? How can I tell if my radiator is up for it? Is more cooling simply and always better than less? Should I buy a hi-performace radiator and call it a day?]
19 [ ] — Install switches w/ guards and wiring for lights Hella 550s, winch, dumping bed, [future projects], etc.
20 [ ] — Shop @ new exhaust system. [I don't want my truck to make any noise at all, if possible, and I don't want it to lose any power. What's the best option for me, reaching for both of those criteria? ha.]
21 [ ] — Order new body panels or patches. [anyone can swipe a credit card... ಠ_ಠ ] $xxx.xx??
22 [ ] — Install new body panels or patches. [yuur outta yuur element, donny...!]
23 [ ] — Shop @ roof-top rust issue. [yikes... hopefully not too painful.] $xxx.xx??
24 [ ] — Shop? @ paint. [Later project.] $x,xxx.xx??
[How are people getting the Toyota AC system to work with the OM617? I laid my unit aside without disconnecting the lines when I pulled the 3.0. Is it possible to mount it up so it can run off one of the OM617's pulleys??]
[Is there any provision from the t-case for PTO? Has anyone mounted hydraulic equipment on their trucks? I'm thinking ahead to my plan for a dumping bed, and, possibly, a hydraulic winch, if I can figure out the hydraulic requirements. Probably totally not worth it. But I like to make sure its not worth it, before writing it off.]
Current rough, rough estimated total: ~$7,000.00.
Probably more like 9 or $10,000.00, all done.
Hopefully I can find a cheaper donor... but this one might be worth it.
It's in great shape, I think: Low milage, desert climate, a/c storage for over a decade, no smoke.
Taking it in for a compression test Monday.
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
TL;DR / Too Long; Didn't Read / Summary:
This post is an expansion of my OP, with many details / decisions finalized / hammered down.
Question Summary:
Q: Can I use my existing radiator?
Q: Quietest exhaust without sapping power?
Q: How to hook up the AC compressor to the OM617?
Q: Best gauges?
Q: Best fuel lines?
Q: Aftermarket fuel cell for this model / make?
Any help with outstanding questions would be much appreciated!
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Last edited:
OE fuel tank & lines will work fine. Flush both with a gallon or two of waste diesel (do not use this fuel in a vehicle). I believe OM-617's have their own demand pump, but the existing EFI pump may work too. Could use a Carter P4070 electric pump for a lift pump. I used them to move fuel around on a diesel engine dyno facility for almost 10 years.
There are two kinds of braided stainless hose. The expensive stuff has a teflon liner and is safe for just about any fuel you could ever run in a vehicle. The lower cost stuff is rubber lined and is good for maybe 5 years of fuel service before it will need to be replaced. Both really need to be covered with something like heat-shrink to keep abrasive grime from building up in the braid, and then getting worn out by the flexing of the hose.
Alternately, "Emissions Barrier Fuel Hose" has an impervious liner that appears to be good in fuel service for as long as you're likely to care. I've been using it with Push-lok/Barb-tite fittings for about 5 years with no issues.
The only way that I'd do an SAS is radius arms and coil springs. No write-up on that that I know of.
I used these gauges on our CTD: ISSPRO Dodge Cummmins Diesel Gauges and am happy with them.
Best electric fan, if it will fit, is the one Ford used on Taurus'. You'll find lots of mentions of this fan in searching the net about it.
For all project vehicles I buy straight & mandrel bent tubing from Summit or Columbia River Mandrel Bends or sometimes Specialty Product Design when something exotic is needed. I fab the whole system & use these hangers: Walker Replacement Exhaust Insulators 35460 with some 5/16" round bar stock. I also place one of these, in an appropriate size, near the engine: Jones Exhaust Systems Flex Tubes FLX21408B
Flange the whole system so that you can take it apart piece by piece or to make replacing the muffler easy. I step the flanges so that a bead of high temp RTV and not a gasket is all that is needed to seal it.
The OM likely has an A/C compressor already on it. Find a mobile A/C guy to come look at it and see if he can make you hoses that will connect to the truck on one end and to the OM on the other end. He can also evacuate both systems of refrigerant. What my local guy does is pull out the refrigerant and write me a credit for how much he's able to get out. Then when it comes time to charge the new system I get that much refrigerant back for free.
No PTO provision on the Toyota pick-up stuff. Can't recall if the 4 speed in the FJ60 (an SM-420 copy) had them or not. You would think adding a PTO to a trans with the provision for it should be easy. It is not.
There are two kinds of braided stainless hose. The expensive stuff has a teflon liner and is safe for just about any fuel you could ever run in a vehicle. The lower cost stuff is rubber lined and is good for maybe 5 years of fuel service before it will need to be replaced. Both really need to be covered with something like heat-shrink to keep abrasive grime from building up in the braid, and then getting worn out by the flexing of the hose.
Alternately, "Emissions Barrier Fuel Hose" has an impervious liner that appears to be good in fuel service for as long as you're likely to care. I've been using it with Push-lok/Barb-tite fittings for about 5 years with no issues.
The only way that I'd do an SAS is radius arms and coil springs. No write-up on that that I know of.
I used these gauges on our CTD: ISSPRO Dodge Cummmins Diesel Gauges and am happy with them.
Best electric fan, if it will fit, is the one Ford used on Taurus'. You'll find lots of mentions of this fan in searching the net about it.
For all project vehicles I buy straight & mandrel bent tubing from Summit or Columbia River Mandrel Bends or sometimes Specialty Product Design when something exotic is needed. I fab the whole system & use these hangers: Walker Replacement Exhaust Insulators 35460 with some 5/16" round bar stock. I also place one of these, in an appropriate size, near the engine: Jones Exhaust Systems Flex Tubes FLX21408B
Flange the whole system so that you can take it apart piece by piece or to make replacing the muffler easy. I step the flanges so that a bead of high temp RTV and not a gasket is all that is needed to seal it.
The OM likely has an A/C compressor already on it. Find a mobile A/C guy to come look at it and see if he can make you hoses that will connect to the truck on one end and to the OM on the other end. He can also evacuate both systems of refrigerant. What my local guy does is pull out the refrigerant and write me a credit for how much he's able to get out. Then when it comes time to charge the new system I get that much refrigerant back for free.
No PTO provision on the Toyota pick-up stuff. Can't recall if the 4 speed in the FJ60 (an SM-420 copy) had them or not. You would think adding a PTO to a trans with the provision for it should be easy. It is not.
- Thread starter
- #24
NTSQD—
Thanks for the reply!!
[Have you done one of these swaps?? Did you put a Cummins TD in a 'yota?]
Tank / Fuel Lines / Fuel Pump:
I will do a good flush of tank and lines. What should I do with the stock fuel filter? Bypass, remove it, install a proper diesel filter?? (I like the one on my GMC Canyon... it's very accessible.)
I want this thing to be a build-it-and-forget-it type of project, so wherever I can go for durability in a part, I will.
SAS:
Good point re: SAS. Looking into it a little more carefully, SASs look to be the specialized domain of rock-crawling, off-road vehicles, for the most part.
The A.D.D. on my truck is messed up, however. Have you ever had to repair that system? I remember reading somewhere that the system itself was a mystery, even to half of Toyota engineers, and that the exorcism required to fix it was simply not worth it... kinda like rebuilding a 3VZE, I guess. [Edit: this is not really true. I don't recall where I read this, but I'm glad it's not true... the A.D.D. shall be redeemed! ...at least on my rig. ]
I will R&D to see if the IFS be upgraded to locking hubs / A.D.D. deleted.
I just want my 4x4 to work again, really.
You need it in a Wyoming winter.
I don't plan on off-roading this vehicle more than hunting and fishing trips, ranching, or oilfield work might require. Two-tracks and very occasional true off-roading. SAS is overkill. (Plus, it'll let me keep that OME kit intact.)
EDIT: A.D.D. system tech articles. [ 4x4wire tech ] [ off-road.com tech ] [ ORS tech ]
Apparently, the ADD is not the monster I thought it was, and Manual Hubs are not the saviors I thought they were (PITA to get in and out, plus more maintenance.) Now I'm thinking I'll just figure out how to fix the A.D.D. or consider a locking differential. More likely, I'll just fix the A.D.D.
Fan:
Thanks for the tip on the Ford Torus fan!
[That'll be one of my auxiliary switches. I found these cool lighted military grade switches that will go well with the NASA shuttle switch guards.]
Gauges:
Those ISSPROs look slick. I especially like the black with while lettering. Do you know if they make speedometers and tachymeters as well?? I'll look around.
EDIT: isspro.com Sweet. I think I'll swap the whole gauge cluster with an analogue look.
Exhaust:
Good call on the puzzle-piece exhaust w/ new hangers. That flex tube is a good call as well.
I found a cool tech article on Marlin (here) about limited motor mounts that prevent too much flexing. Again, since I'm not putting in double transfer cases and things like that, I don't know if I need to worry about that (But I might do it anyway, for overkill's sake, since I'll be rebuilding the motor mounts from scratch anyway...)
AC:
Good call on the mobile AC guy. I will find such a dude and make it happen.
PTO:
Weird. Too bad.
I'll just confine myself to 12v winches and figure out a 12v hydraulic pump/ram for the dumping bed.
This project is shaping up! That 300SD is heading to the shop tomorrow for a look-see on Monday!!
Thanks for the reply!!
[Have you done one of these swaps?? Did you put a Cummins TD in a 'yota?]
Tank / Fuel Lines / Fuel Pump:
I will do a good flush of tank and lines. What should I do with the stock fuel filter? Bypass, remove it, install a proper diesel filter?? (I like the one on my GMC Canyon... it's very accessible.)
I want this thing to be a build-it-and-forget-it type of project, so wherever I can go for durability in a part, I will.
SAS:
Good point re: SAS. Looking into it a little more carefully, SASs look to be the specialized domain of rock-crawling, off-road vehicles, for the most part.
The A.D.D. on my truck is messed up, however. Have you ever had to repair that system? I remember reading somewhere that the system itself was a mystery, even to half of Toyota engineers, and that the exorcism required to fix it was simply not worth it... kinda like rebuilding a 3VZE, I guess. [Edit: this is not really true. I don't recall where I read this, but I'm glad it's not true... the A.D.D. shall be redeemed! ...at least on my rig. ]
I will R&D to see if the IFS be upgraded to locking hubs / A.D.D. deleted.
I just want my 4x4 to work again, really.
You need it in a Wyoming winter.
I don't plan on off-roading this vehicle more than hunting and fishing trips, ranching, or oilfield work might require. Two-tracks and very occasional true off-roading. SAS is overkill. (Plus, it'll let me keep that OME kit intact.)
EDIT: A.D.D. system tech articles. [ 4x4wire tech ] [ off-road.com tech ] [ ORS tech ]
Apparently, the ADD is not the monster I thought it was, and Manual Hubs are not the saviors I thought they were (PITA to get in and out, plus more maintenance.) Now I'm thinking I'll just figure out how to fix the A.D.D. or consider a locking differential. More likely, I'll just fix the A.D.D.
Fan:
Thanks for the tip on the Ford Torus fan!
[That'll be one of my auxiliary switches. I found these cool lighted military grade switches that will go well with the NASA shuttle switch guards.]
Gauges:
Those ISSPROs look slick. I especially like the black with while lettering. Do you know if they make speedometers and tachymeters as well?? I'll look around.
EDIT: isspro.com Sweet. I think I'll swap the whole gauge cluster with an analogue look.
Exhaust:
Good call on the puzzle-piece exhaust w/ new hangers. That flex tube is a good call as well.
I found a cool tech article on Marlin (here) about limited motor mounts that prevent too much flexing. Again, since I'm not putting in double transfer cases and things like that, I don't know if I need to worry about that (But I might do it anyway, for overkill's sake, since I'll be rebuilding the motor mounts from scratch anyway...)
AC:
Good call on the mobile AC guy. I will find such a dude and make it happen.
PTO:
Weird. Too bad.
I'll just confine myself to 12v winches and figure out a 12v hydraulic pump/ram for the dumping bed.
This project is shaping up! That 300SD is heading to the shop tomorrow for a look-see on Monday!!
Last edited:
Nope, CTD is a '95 Cummins-Dodge.
My '88 4rnnr has no ADD, just Aisin locking hubs. I understand that the difference in in the long side tube bolted to the diff housing and the shaft(s) inside it, but don't know a lot about it.
I'd put an electric fan on a thermostat. If deep water crossings are a reasonable possibility then I'd build in a system kill switch. Make it light a red light when turned off so you don't leave it off by accident. Might also consider a manual over-ride to force the fan on. I've done it both ways, with and without the over-ride, and it really depends on the application and how you drive it.
I'd use the OM's original engine mounts. They're diesel specific to deal with the vibes at idle.
12 VDC hyd pumps aren't uncommon. Find them, for instance, on a lot of lift tail-gates used on pick-ups and medium duty trucks.
My '88 4rnnr has no ADD, just Aisin locking hubs. I understand that the difference in in the long side tube bolted to the diff housing and the shaft(s) inside it, but don't know a lot about it.
I'd put an electric fan on a thermostat. If deep water crossings are a reasonable possibility then I'd build in a system kill switch. Make it light a red light when turned off so you don't leave it off by accident. Might also consider a manual over-ride to force the fan on. I've done it both ways, with and without the over-ride, and it really depends on the application and how you drive it.
I'd use the OM's original engine mounts. They're diesel specific to deal with the vibes at idle.
12 VDC hyd pumps aren't uncommon. Find them, for instance, on a lot of lift tail-gates used on pick-ups and medium duty trucks.
- Thread starter
- #26
Yep.
All makes sense. Good call @ OM's motor mounts and fan kill-switch..
Going to make some edits to the above post re: A.D.D. Turns out it's not the monster I thought it was. (Been a while since my last R&D dive on this truck. Going to get it done this time tho'.
All makes sense. Good call @ OM's motor mounts and fan kill-switch..
Going to make some edits to the above post re: A.D.D. Turns out it's not the monster I thought it was. (Been a while since my last R&D dive on this truck. Going to get it done this time tho'.
When I was shopping for a 4Runner a few months ago, I came across using the Aisin hubs on 90-95 trucks and 4Runners. Unless it changed for later models (I don't think so), the hubs are a bolt-on proposition. I know that if I had bought a 4Runner of that vintage I would have added the Aisins. The axles are setup for both ADD and Aisins. The Aisins were a popular swap since most of the works on the front axle obviously don't have to spin around all the time.
You have to use hubs from an 86-89 truck with IFS though since the number of splines is different from a straight axle. The Aisins have also gotten rare and seem to be getting worth their weight in gold. Someplace when I was researching 4Runners I came across a post where a guy had come across some Warn lacking hubs in a yard, and that thread had a lot of discussion on adding locking hubs- and moat all agreed Aisins were the best your could get for these trucks, including the ease of adding them.
Sorry for the cloudiness in my memory, but I wound up buying an 86- so the hubs were not an issue.
You have to use hubs from an 86-89 truck with IFS though since the number of splines is different from a straight axle. The Aisins have also gotten rare and seem to be getting worth their weight in gold. Someplace when I was researching 4Runners I came across a post where a guy had come across some Warn lacking hubs in a yard, and that thread had a lot of discussion on adding locking hubs- and moat all agreed Aisins were the best your could get for these trucks, including the ease of adding them.
Sorry for the cloudiness in my memory, but I wound up buying an 86- so the hubs were not an issue.
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