1991 FJ80 starts but stalls immediately.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

TeamUhOh

TeamUhOh

Joined
Feb 11, 2024
Threads
2
Messages
19
Location
Florida
A couple weeks ago I dived into an egr delete/ fuel injector and other fuel related refreshing. (Cruiser has always cranked and ran great!)

After putting everything back together I got no CEL due to me mistakingly removing the two screws to the AFM. Since then I have re soldered the connections and am getting a CEL in on position but now she dies almost immediately at cranking, kind of like she’s not getting fuel. I’m definitely stumped and not sure what could cause this since she always started for me in the past, maybe the AFM is still not working properly?
 
@TeamUhOh
The AFM has a fuel cutoff switch that you damaged when removing the two screws.
The switch "has open contacts" before starting and the vane is closed.
When the motor starts the vane opens, the switch closes contacts to supply the COR to run normally
The COR - Circuit Opening Relay powers the fuel pump for a few seconds during startup ignoring the VAF fuel cutoff signal. That is what you are observing
 
ppc said:
@TeamUhOh
The AFM has a fuel cutoff switch that you damaged when removing the two screws.
The switch "has open contacts" before starting and the vane is closed.
When the motor starts the vane opens, the switch closes contacts to supply the COR to run normally
The COR - Circuit Opening Relay powers the fuel pump for a few seconds during startup ignoring the VAF fuel cutoff signal. That is what you are observing
Click to expand...
So you’re saying even though I re soldered those three little pins that came loose and am getting a CEL in the ON position that the AFM still isn’t working properly?
 
@TeamUhOh

Yes,,
Mostly likely fixed by adjusting the "arms" that got bent while pulling the connector. Try searching the forum for pics

1774052707264.webp
 
ppc said:
I've seen that posted but know no details. Should be easy to fix the contacts.
Why did you mess with it to begin wit
ppc said:
I've seen that posted but know no details. Should be easy to fix the contacts.
Why did you mess with it to begin with?
Click to expand...
Okay I appreciate the info! I was clearing everything out to take the manifold off and didn’t know how to take that darn plug off so I tried the two screws and here we are haha. Won’t make that mistake again.
Click to expand...
 
ppc said:
OK, keep fixing things until they break. :worms::flipoff2:
Click to expand...
Well I replaced the AFM with a used one from cruiser parts and still she cranks but won’t turn over. All the lights show when the key is in the on position so I’m still stumped.
 
TeamUhOh said:
Well I replaced the AFM with a used one from cruiser parts and still she cranks but won’t turn over. All the lights show when the key is in the on position so I’m still stumped.
Click to expand...
There's a diagnostic test procedure for the AFM in the Toyota FSM.
Always refer to the Toyota manuals.
Avoid purchasing from CruiserParts.
 
I went through basically the same thing on a buddy's 80 — he pulled the AFM to clean it and bent those little contact arms on the connector without realising. Car would start briefly then cut right out, just like you're describing.

The arms that mate with the connector pins need to be pretty precisely positioned. Too far out and they don't make contact, too far in and the connection is intermittent. There are a few good threads on here showing exactly what angle they should sit at — worth a search for "FJ80 AFM connector repair" before you give up on it.

As for the Camry AFM swap: yes it works, the 89-90 Camry 2VZ-FE AFM is a known substitute, but it's not a 1:1 plug-and-play on the connector side without some fiddling. If your stock one is otherwise intact and just the connector fingers got bent, I'd sort the original first — easier than chasing a used Camry part that may have its own problems.
 
jonheld said:
There's a diagnostic test procedure for the AFM in the Toyota FSM.
Always refer to the Toyota manuals.
Avoid
jonheld said:
There's a diagnostic test procedure for the AFM in the Toyota FSM.
Always refer to the Toyota manuals.
Avoid purchasing from CruiserParts.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply John! I tested the meter per FSM specs before installing and everything came measured within range.
Click to expand...
 
discoverydave said:
I went through basically the same thing on a buddy's 80 — he pulled the AFM to clean it and bent those little contact arms on the connector without realising. Car would start briefly then cut right out, just like you're describing.

The arms that mate with the connector pins need to be pretty precisely positioned. Too far out and they don't make contact, too far in and the connection is intermittent. There are a few good threads on here showing exactly what angle they should sit at — worth a search for "FJ80 AFM connector repair" before you give up on it.

As for the Camry AFM swap: yes it works, the 89-90 Camry 2VZ-FE AFM is a known substitute, but it's not a 1:1 plug-and-play on the connector side without some fiddling. If your stock one is otherwise intact and just the connector fingers got bent, I'd sort the original first — easier than chasing a used Camry part that may have its own problems.
Click to expand...
I still have my original one, after re attaching the arms she cranks just like she does now after swapping out the used one.
 
jonheld said:
There's a diagnostic test procedure for the AFM in the Toyota FSM.
Always refer to the Toyota manuals.
Avoid purchasing from CruiserP
Click to expand...

jonheld said:
There's a diagnostic test procedure for the AFM in the Toyota FSM.
Always refer to the Toyota manuals.
Avoid purchasing from CruiserParts.
Click to expand...
I also noticed on the connector itself that the middle slot is empty while all the others have metal inside. Is there supposed to be connectors for all seven?
 
TeamUhOh said:
I also noticed on the connector itself that the middle slot is empty while all the others have metal inside. Is there supposed to be connectors for all seven?
Click to expand...
Again, always refer to the Toyota manuals. There is no pin 3. Pin 1 is ground, pin 2 is the closure that fires the fuel pump when the flap opens.

From the ENGINE CONTROL section of the EWD:

1774716892001.webp


1774716929460.webp
 
Last edited:
TeamUhOh said:
View attachment 4111126
Click to expand...
The picture above appears to have the connector upside down. The spring clip should be on the top of the female connector, and as shown in the connector diagram I posted from the EWD, the blank pin 3 should be towards the left.
1774786091647.webp
1774786217489.webp
 
jonheld said:
The picture above appears to have the connector upside down. The spring clip should be on the top of the female connector, and as shown in the connector diagram I posted from the EWD, the blank pin 3 should be towards the left.
View attachment 4111549 View attachment 4111550
Click to expand...
I appreciate the help and info sir! Unfortunately I’m throwing in the towel and sending her to the professionals. 🙏
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom