Ill get into a little more detail when i can take some pics but really im running the fenders cut all to hell and 1.5 wheel spacers all the way around with 2015 stock 16in taco wheels. With better suited wheels i could turn better but the future setup they will work better. My s***s rusty as hell so im not scared to put the death wheel to it.
Thread title is no longer applicable for me. I rode in an FJ60 and realized that leaf sprung ride doesn't have to be brutal. After returning from a Moab/Colorado wheeling trip with a sore back I started researching and collecting suspension parts. The rig will end up linked eventually, but it is my daily driver right now and I don't have the time or money to start that project. So the interim solution is an OME light kit in the front and Chevy 63 springs with 12" Bilsteins out back. Flex and ride quality are so much better. It wheeled like a brick before. It's not even close to maxed out in the shot on the stairs. All of that trimming to make the 35s fit on stock springs means that there is plenty of uptravel. Center of gravity is still relatively low; roof is same height as a stock JK. I can't wait to get down to Hotsprings for the southern cruiser crawl to test out the new setup on the trails.
The pickup tailgate hinges are on the bottom instead of the sides like the 4Runner ones. So I cut out a 3/16" plate to bridge the gap between the stock floor and pickup tailgate as well as provide mounting points for the hinges. Then I reinforced that plate with a strip of angle iron on the bottom, drilled holes for the hinges, and welded it to the body. A few magnetic welding clamps and some tall jack stands come in handy for trying to get the new tailgate lined up. Next I removed the taillights and drilled holes and welded captive nuts for the latches and links. Then all that is left is to chop the quarter panels to match the tailgate. Hope that helps.
The pickup tailgate hinges are on the bottom instead of the sides like the 4Runner ones. So I cut out a 3/16" plate to bridge the gap between the stock floor and pickup tailgate as well as provide mounting points for the hinges. Then I reinforced that plate with a strip of angle iron on the bottom, drilled holes for the hinges, and welded it to the body. A few magnetic welding clamps and some tall jack stands come in handy for trying to get the new tailgate lined up. Next I removed the taillights and drilled holes and welded captive nuts for the latches and links. Then all that is left is to chop the quarter panels to match the tailgate. Hope that helps.