Ok, I've searched a lot, and haven't found my answer yet. Another guy had the exact opposite problem, a '73 carb with a '78 distributor. So let me first reveal what a few weeks of searching has taught me. It is a 1978 FJ40 produced 10/77. The body and frame serials match. The block is a service replacement, only stamped "2F" where the serial number should be, and has a cast date of "00405", which I take to be April 5, 1980. The carb is stamped something like J77 (I can't remember it verbatim right now) which I take to be a production date of 10/77, which should make it the original carburetor. The plate on the distributor reads 19100-60064 and 029100-2030 which I believe makes it a 1973 vacuum retard model. It has been Bubba desmogged. Basically any funny lookin box with vacuum hoses was cut out. Yeah, I didn't do it, that's just one of the headaches I have inherited from the PO; you should see what he did to the front springs in my "I joined the forum" thread. Anyway, on to a question. The vacuum biscuit on the distributor is currently connected to the vacuum port on the carburetor that is just below and to the left of the air mixture screw on the valve cover side. Is that right? I don't believe so. If I can wrap my brain around vacuum retard, it seems like it should be a strong source of vacuum at idle that goes away upon acceleration, and when setting the timing this vacuum source should be connected. What port would be suitable for this task? I don't have a picture right now, I'm at work, so I'll get that up tomorrow if it is needed. Thanks in advance for any replies.
I don't know if I have a good comment on performance on this new distributor vs the old one, for two reasons. First, I almost got the transmission in yesterday... almost. So not doing a whole lot of moving yet. Second, with the old one I was never street legal, so most of what I was doing was just driving through the woods on old logging trails, not even near any mud holes either. But I do already have a positive observation to make; I followed the FSM on stabbing the new distributor, and then pumped the gas pedal twice and turned the key.... It was instantly purring! I was so surprised I didn't know what to do next, I was expecting some fires and misses etc., but there was none of that. I swooped in with my timing light and the timing was right around 7* before TDC. This fancy new light I have has the dial on it, so I cranked it to 12, turned the distributor a tad bit more until the light was on the TDC mark, and tightened the hold-down clamp. Done. Easiest time I have ever had at setting the timing, and this ain't my first rodeo LOL. Since then, I did the 20 minute run-in on breaking in a new camshaft that I have read about, I think I did okay. I'm using Lucas 10w30 break-in oil, so the ZDDP is in there. And since then, I've had it up to operating temperature several times, fixing a few little things that popped up along the way. It does run super smooth, much better than before. That being said, there are new valves, rings, bearings, coil, wires, etc. etc. I've been pretty thorough with it. Overall, when I was trying to think about replacing the old distributor, the OEM Toyota won out over the other options for me for a few reasons: OEM isn't going to be available forever, so I wanted to get while the getting was good, and I've fought with an HEI distributor on an '86 Chevy pickup, that wouldn't run right anytime there was moisture in the air. That coil in the cap would just play out, not real sure what was going on, but I didn't want to see one of those under my hood again LOL. I hope some of my rambling helps you with your decision!
