Hey, your pile of parts looks a lot like my pile of parts
. Keep up the great work and keep the pics coming.
. Keep up the great work and keep the pics coming.
1964 FJ45 LB “RB1” Project
- Thread starter miker
- Start date
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- #42
Now that the bed is apart, I've been working on getting the rear springs and axle mounted in place. This will allow me to determine the final bed dimensions. I'm using fj55 springs in the rear. I'm looking for another set for the front but I may settle on using 40/45 front spring instead. For the rear springs, I moved the front hangers forward 1.5", redrilled the springs 1.5", and the difference in 45 to 55 spring length from front mount to pin all totals up to move the rear axle about 6" forward of the stock placement.
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- #43
Here's a close up of the front hangers. I removed the rivets and then used the bottom 3 holes to slide the hanger forward one hole, then redrill the remaining holes. I removed the stock gusset plates inside the frame which were in very bad shape and made some new ones from 1/4" thick plate for the inner sides of the frame as well as for the inner bottom of the frame. The only problem with moving the hangers froward like this is that the lower front hole of the mount will need a small shim/spacer because there is now a small gap where the frame bends upward.
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- #44
I removed the rear frame supports which were in the way of the new shakle hangers. I will fab a new rear crossmember with supports to replace this strength. I will also have to move the existing shock/torsion bar tube or add a new one. I placed the hangers 44" apart from front to rear. This is about 1" shorter than on a stock 55. I an running a slightly longer shackle so the shackle angle should be pretty good when I get full vehicle weight back on the springs.
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- Thread starter
- #46
Here's a better shot of the gap between the hanger and the frame. This is where I'll have to make a shim/spacer to keep from damaging the hanger once I put in that last bolt and tighten it up.
- Thread starter
- #48
The solid mount ones are stock. I made the shackle mounts.
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- #49
I've started work on new bed supports and mounts. I wasn't happy with the way some of the mounts turned out so I made new ones after I took these pics. I'll get some pictures of the new ones as well as the progress over the past couple weeks and post them up soon.
)
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- #52
I could have shortened the bed without moving the rear axle however, after seeing a couple of FJ45 long bed pickups “bobbed” by just removing some of the bed length behind the rear axle, I decided I didn’t want to do it that way. Rather, I decided to shorten the bed at 2 places:
1. Between the rear axle and the cab
2. Between the rear axle and the tailgate
The advantage of doing it this way was that I could control the bed proportions in front and behind the rear axle. I think a side benefit is the shorted wheelbase which might help for off roading.
In addition to shortening the bed, I’m narrowing it too. I hoping that this will also aid in the overall bed proportions, basically making it look better, and as well giving the bed a little more clearance on the trail when inching by obstacles.
I agonized for about a year over whether or not I would modify the bed like this before I actually made the first cut. The determining factor for me was the poor condition of the bed and rear frame section, and the cost and availability of a replacement.
So, in the end, I went the way of making a more capable trail rig rather than a stock looking FJ45. I hope to retain much of the FJ45 look where the casual onlooker (not the typical ih8mud user) will never realize that it’s not a stock body/bed.
wow that looks great. it will be neat to see the bed come together.
Jason
Jason
- Thread starter
- #56
Thanks!
Wish I could say I had some hi-tech stuff.
I use a 14" chop saw from harbor freight (~$80), a 4-1/2" grinder with cut off wheel from harbor freight (~$20), a good quality hacksaw (~$15) and Starrett blades (~$2 ea), and I happen to have a good reciporcating saw (~$120) but I use it infrequently to cut metal. I find the hacksaw is generally just as quick or quicker and more accurate. I have a selection of hole saws, drill bits, and a drill press with a low speed of ~250 rpm. For the thicker metal, anything larger than about 3/8" x 2", I generally flame cut and then dress with a grinder. For thinner sheet metal, I have a hand held air shear and a nibbler. The problem with these is that they are only good for about 20 ga and thinner. Most of my cruiser stuff is thicker than that so they don't get used much.
The chop saw is the tool of choice for most of the bar, angle, and tubing metal I cut. Its quick and "fairly" accurate. The disadvantage is that its loud and messy. A floor standing band saw, verticle or horz, would be very nice at times but the space they take up is a problem for me. A plasma cutter is on my wish list but I've gotten along without one for a long time...
I can only dream of a shop and tools like some have.
I'm generally never in a hurry so speed is not too much a concern.
OH, almost forgot, a few of the most important tools are the tape measure, sqare, and level.
- Thread starter
- #57
Some time ago I had rough cut the bed sides. I finally decided on the box length and have been building the bed floor support frame so I now knew where the front of the bed would be located. I rolled the bed side's lower two-thirds to make the "lip".
