15" steel wheels with hubcaps on a 1st gen 4runner? (1 Viewer)

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@Jasonredwood
I know this is an old post now, but this thread inspired me to run steelies on my 1st gen.
Hopefully you were able to grab a set for your own rig!

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Love the way these wheels and tires look. What tire/wheel combo you got? Closest thing I could find was for wheels was on summit racing. Part numbers: 12-5606358 or 12-570604 kinda look like the wheels you're running.
 
Love the way these wheels and tires look. What tire/wheel combo you got? Closest thing I could find was for wheels was on summit racing. Part numbers: 12-5606358 or 12-570604 kinda look like the wheels you're running.
I was inspired by this thread also! I ended up not doing the narrow rim, although the shop I go to said it wouldn’t be a big deal. I purchased Pacer Daytonas 15x7 with 33’s and an OME spring/shock, took out one leaf on the rear spring. Still love the narrow rim look!!

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Love the way these wheels and tires look. What tire/wheel combo you got? Closest thing I could find was for wheels was on summit racing. Part numbers: 12-5606358 or 12-570604 kinda look like the wheels you're running.
Forgot to mention I found different sites offering these. The toy dealer by me was useless. Found listings on EBay. There is a company that sells a 16” version out of Japan (there is a link in this thread) and check coolcruisers has a listing for these.
 
I was inspired by this thread also! I ended up not doing the narrow rim, although the shop I go to said it wouldn’t be a big deal. I purchased Pacer Daytonas 15x7 with 33’s and an OME spring/shock, took out one leaf on the rear spring. Still love the narrow rim look!!

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Did you have to crank the T bars at all or put in ball joint spacers for the 33s to fit? Long story short I’ve got an ‘89 IFS, threw on some 2.25” OME leafs in hopes of leveling out the sag in the rear, went way too high, had to add ball joint spacers and some T bar turns to level it out, plus a diff drop… CV boots still tore. Wanting to go back to stock in the front. So thinking of putting old leafs back in and maybe doing an add-a-leaf.
 
I never thought of removing a leaf from the leaf pack… Long story short I’ve got an ‘89 IFS, threw on some 2.25” OME leafs in hopes of leveling out the sag in the rear, went way too high. Want to keep front end stock so either need to remove a leaf from OME leaf pack on each side or need to go back to stock leafs with add-a-leaf. Which leaf is best to remove when removing a leaf from the spring pack? My goal is stock up front with the rear sag fixed. Before and after the OME 2.25” springs below in pics.

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Did you have to crank the T bars at all or put in ball joint spacers for the 33s to fit? Long story short I’ve got an ‘89 IFS, threw on some 2.25” OME leafs in hopes of leveling out the sag in the rear, went way too high, had to add ball joint spacers and some T bar turns to level it out, plus a diff drop… CV boots still tore. Wanting to go back to stock in the front. So thinking of putting old leafs back in and maybe doing an add-a-leaf.
I did not use any spacers. I replaced the torsion bars with ome, including the ome shocks, and removed one leaf from the rear. The torsion bars are lifting the front. They work by “pushing down” on the FS. My understanding is ome makes two different rear springs, a “normal” and a “heavy” for carrying more load. I have the “normal” when I first put the rear springs on it was crazy high in the back! Taking out the one leaf is perfect. Before I did the lift I replaced most of the front end including the t-axles (which you can get rebuilt) So far everything looks good and I don’t think a diff drop is necessary at all.
 
Maybe I’m mistaken on the two leaf spring options! But it’s been a little while and I’m old!
 

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