12ht oil leaks track down. (1 Viewer)

Mikeybro

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I have had my 12ht for about 3 months now and I love every bit of it. It is definitely leaking oil from somewhere and most likely multiple places. Anyone in the area willing to come take a look and try and sus it out? I can see where oil is leaking from I just don't know what the part is to look into how to fix it. I thought I had an FSM but it doesnt seem all that helpful in telling me what parts are what on the engine.

Thanks for the Help!
 

FJBen

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I have had my 12ht for about 3 months now and I love every bit of it. It is definitely leaking oil from somewhere and most likely multiple places. Anyone in the area willing to come take a look and try and sus it out? I can see where oil is leaking from I just don't know what the part is to look into how to fix it. I thought I had an FSM but it doesnt seem all that helpful in telling me what parts are what on the engine.

Thanks for the Help!

Any pictures of the spots? We can get a good idea at that point to help you out.
 

Mikeybro

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So i've pinpointed the biggest leak (i think) to where this tubing coming from unkown thing at the front of the engine into what looks to be the oil cooler housing? My expo marker is pointing to the tub, and then I have a close up off it, with (convientently) dripping oil on it.

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Mikeybro

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Ok i figured it out. Nothing like a deep dive into the world of google. Its deemed the "oil pipe" coming from the Timing Gear Cover and the part number is 15705. And its discontinued. Anyone know any braided steel hose that can replace it?
 
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I would personally not replacing that pipe if it is not actually leaking. If it is not fitted with tension in it it should last the whole engine life.
It looks a bit as it would leak out of the banjo bolt connection at the IP.
But you were dead right - best practise is to spray on engine cleaner, let it soak for a while and then pressure wash, better steam wash the engine. Be carefull around rubber and electrical parts - just don't go direct here. Then watch for the first signs of oil.
 

Mikeybro

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So i pulled the tubing today and inspected. No obvious cracks or stress marks anywhere on there. the main banjo bolt has 2 washers, both small brass looking ones. But the spring and valves aren't visible and I reach in there with a pick and try to pull them out to no avail. I can't get line of sight on the hole there. Are the spring and valve super deep or you guys think they are just not there? 15132 and 15131 are the ones in question. Also who can snap a pic of the 15134 gasket?
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Mikeybro

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I took mine to a radiator shop and they soldered it for me. Never had a problem after that.
When you pulled the tube off. Where the spring and valve visible? My pipe is not leaking. I think I am missing my spring and maybe the valve, so it is just continually leaking out oil. If I understand that mechanisms right it is a oil pressure relief valve, so it is design to release oil from there?
 
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Mikeybro,

I think that you are mixing up the main engine oil pressure relief valve and the tubing which you were referring to at first.
It happens that they are on the same parts catalogue picture but are technically not connected. If you take that oil feed pipe off - there are only the three banjo bolts, no piston or springs.
It seems that you expected the spring under the IP banjo bolt. That purpose of that oil pipe is to feed engine oil from the oil filter housing to lubricate the injection pump and the automatic timer and gears.
Have you cleaned it all thoroughly and looked for the first signs of an oil leak ? If not - bolt that pipe with new copper washers and the correct torque back on and see if
L1390284.JPG
the leakage is still existent.
Engine oil leaks are a nuisance, I hope that you get rid of them soon.
 

kevin in okinawa

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So i pulled the tubing today and inspected. No obvious cracks or stress marks anywhere on there. the main banjo bolt has 2 washers, both small brass looking ones. But the spring and valves aren't visible and I reach in there with a pick and try to pull them out to no avail. I can't get line of sight on the hole there. Are the spring and valve super deep or you guys think they are just not there? 15132 and 15131 are the ones in question. Also who can snap a pic of the 15134 gasket? View attachment 2624117
what @relaxedcruiser said. be sure to put new copper washers in there. I assume that the leak may be from the old washers (if you're lucky), the spray of oil is the fan blasting drips of oil everywhere most likely.
 

Mikeybro

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Mikeybro,

I think that you are mixing up the main engine oil pressure relief valve and the tubing which you were referring to at first.
It happens that they are on the same parts catalogue picture but are technically not connected. If you take that oil feed pipe off - there are only the three banjo bolts, no piston or springs.
It seems that you expected the spring under the IP banjo bolt. That purpose of that oil pipe is to feed engine oil from the oil filter housing to lubricate the injection pump and the automatic timer and gears.
Have you cleaned it all thoroughly and looked for the first signs of an oil leak ? If not - bolt that pipe with new copper washers and the correct torque back on and see if View attachment 2625577the leakage is still existent.
Engine oil leaks are a nuisance, I hope that you get rid of them soon.
You assumptions of my confusion is very correct! Ok i have yet to put everything back together but I hope the copper washers. Thanks for the help. YOUR engine is SO clean compared to mine!
 

TLC Norway

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I've had those copper washers leak on me before, after changing a radiator hose, probably knocked it and it got skewed.
The pressure relief valve and spring is at the lower end of the block, behind oil pump, so nothing behind that banjo.
I was off grid when i noticed the leak, and in a pinch you can heat the washers to almost following red (expanding), lightly scuff them with fine paper and crush them back on. Been sealed and dry the last 4 years.
A trick that has saved me several times on old engines and equipment, learnt from my grandfather.
 
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New copper gaskets fitted with the right torque are as good as they get - you don`t need to heat them to try to make them better.
Before you take things apart again - wash the region thoroughly with detergent and water pressure washer (taking the precautions mentioned above) if you haven't done it before - then brake clean spray and compressed air to blow ALL of the residue oil from the surfaces. You want to have a perfectly dry problem area.
Then with the engine running, watch permanently with a bright torch (not a cellphone one) were the first shine of oil/diesel appears. Don´t cut corners here - you need to know where the leakage is - guessing doesn't help.
If you do it right you'll know within short time where you leakage comes from, doublecheck a couple of times with brake clean and compressed air if not completely sure.
 

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