12ht engine oil (1 Viewer)

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canucksafari said:
Delo 400 is still one of the few oils that meet the old JASO standard for these older engines. It has the additives, that John referred to, which are required for these older engines.

Even with the LE attached to it?
I'm running Delo 400 LE 5w40 syn
 
Even with the LE attached to it?
I'm running Delo 400 LE 5w40 syn

Yes, here are the specs:

PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS
• API Cl-4 PLUS, Cl-4, CH-4
• API SL, SJ
• ACEA E7-08, E5-02, E3-96.
• JASO DH-1
• EMA Global DHD-1
• Caterpillar ECF-2, ECF-1-a
• Cummins CES 20078, 20077
• DDC 93K214
• Mack EQ-N Premium Plus 03
• Mercedes-Benz 228.3
• Volvo VDS-3

Planned Approvals
• MAN M 3275
• ZF TE-ML 04C, 07C
• MTU Category 1 and 2
• Renault RLD-2

Meets the Requirements of
• API CG-4, CF-4, CF, CD
• Cummins CES 20076, 20072
• Mack EO-M Plus, EO-M


KEY PROPERTIES SAE Grade 15W-40 Density at 15°C, kg/L 0.886 Base No., D2896, mg KOH/g 12.2 Base No., D4739, mg KOH/g 10.0 Sulfated Ash, %m 1.4 Flash Point °C 230 Pour Point °C -33 Viscosity, cSt at 40°C 125 Viscosity, cst at 100°C 15.1 Viscosity Index 125 Zinc, %m 0.15
 
Shell ,BP and all the other well known brands will be ok. I have yet to see someone who used any of these brands claim it destroyed their engine.You will never know whats really good/bad for an engine unless you run a number of them side by side for 300000miles under identical conditions and then strip them down and inspect the components.
Stick a well known brand of oil in there and concentrate on oil/filter changes .
The biggest killer of diesel engines is injectors that are way past their service date and are making black smoke because they are sooting the engine up and destroying the lubricity of the oil.
 
The 12HT is actually spec'd for 10W30 oil and it should preferably have an additive package that has lubricity enhancers that are more old school. Newer oils have been stripped of additives like zinc, which are hard on emissions control equipment but good for older engines.

Synthetic or dinosaur oil is a personal choice. The 12HT can certainly run synthetic as it stays quite clean in the DI engine compared with the IDI 3B and 2H which are much harder on the oil.

~John
So with my 3b I should run non synthetic or blend? Any recommendations?
 
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Old diesels dont need fancy oils. Its been done to death on this forum. You just need a qulaity brand and choose the correct viscosity for the climate you live in.
 
Old diesels dont need fancy oils. Its been done to death on this forum. You just need a qulaity brand and choose the correct viscosity for the climate you live in.
Any specific recommendations? I made another thread.

 
Take your pic, I really doubt whether you would notice any difference. As long as its to spec, its ok.
 
Over the years I've driven a lot of old junkers of various makes and have never had an engine failure due to the brand of oil. I also had a contact at Lubriplate years ago and oil analysis showed most oil changes are premature. After looking at the oil data from Lubriplate I never felt the need to go to synthetics.

That said when I bought my '01 Dodge Cummins from a friend I would trust with anything he told me a Cummins mechanic recommended running Chevron Delo 15W-40 in the engine. I've run it since and it seems to be quality oil. Not saying it is better than Rotella and I don't think you can go wrong with either.
 
I use Penrite HPR 20/60 and 2 bottles of Moreys Heavy Duty Oil Stabiliser (1L each). Changed every 5000kms. The 12ht has done 601000kms... It is expensive to do, and I am getting engine rebuild prices as I use a bit of oil when towing the boat long distances (1400km in a day), which makes me nervous...
 
I think your going to use a bit of oil doing km’s like that if your towing nothing. I’m using the Penrite 15W-50 Semi Synthetic HPR. Seems to be ok but I’d like to be corrected if needed
 
I think your going to use a bit of oil doing km’s like that if your towing nothing. I’m using the Penrite 15W-50 Semi Synthetic HPR. Seems to be ok but I’d like to be corrected if needed
as far as I know the old diesel motors prefer mineral, they were made before the synthetic oils came out. Think of those old fashioned rockers tapping the valves, flat lifters, push rods, they need viscous lube.

I too, use the penrite 20-60 extra zinc in my 2h. Ran awhile on the caterpillar, delo and shell 15-40 s but after much reading went back to mineral oil with zinc. The 20-60 suits Australia due to being a warmer climate. Don't see snow too often...It is a bit more exy, but I really am aiming at high milage from the one engine in every way possible.

The synthetics have detergents. To clean an engine with mineral, you have to change the oil more frequently, with good long runs at over 2000rpm, to minimize carbon. And as Rosco said, injectors in good check.

Read an article about redline oils cleaning an engine with 3x oil changes in an hour!

yeah been talked to death
 
as far as I know the old diesel motors prefer mineral, they were made before the synthetic oils came out. Think of those old fashioned rockers tapping the valves, flat lifters, push rods, they need viscous lube.

I too, use the penrite 20-60 extra zinc in my 2h. Ran awhile on the caterpillar, delo and shell 15-40 s but after much reading went back to mineral oil with zinc. The 20-60 suits Australia due to being a warmer climate. Don't see snow too often...It is a bit more exy, but I really am aiming at high milage from the one engine in every way possible.

The synthetics have detergents. To clean an engine with mineral, you have to change the oil more frequently, with good long runs at over 2000rpm, to minimize carbon. And as Rosco said, injectors in good check.

Read an article about redline oils cleaning an engine with 3x oil changes in an hour!

yeah been talked to death
The Penrite 15W-50 is Semi Synthetic with added zinc. I would consider switching to the Penrite 15W-40 mineral someone can make me believe it’s a step forward. 12HT, 300k. Runs like a champ
 
The Penrite 15W-50 is Semi Synthetic with added zinc. I would consider switching to the Penrite 15W-40 mineral someone can make me believe it’s a step forward. 12HT, 300k. Runs like a champ
Well, I guess penrite is recommending what you are using. I have spoken directly to the penrite folk before, they know their stuff for sure.
Hopefully someone with a 12ht for years shall chime in.

12ht is simply a champ.
Geez, up to $70k aud now for hj61, nuts, should have bought a few when they $5k....better than real estate!
Still, if I had choice, I would put her into a 40 or 70 series.. :cool:
 
The dirty engines like the 3B and the 2H need lots of oil/filter changes to keep the soot at bay.

The 12HT, 1HZ, 1HDT etc. which run cleaner don't depend on super frequent drains as they are far less sooty. Another member running a 1HZ and got regular oil testing done over numerous oil changes running Rotella T4. The result was that 15W40 produce noticeably better results than the same oil in 10W30.

You can run longer oil change intervals if you test your oil since you will know the numbers on how it's holding up.

~John
 
The dirty engines like the 3B and the 2H need lots of oil/filter changes to keep the soot at bay.

The 12HT, 1HZ, 1HDT etc. which run cleaner don't depend on super frequent drains as they are far less sooty. Another member running a 1HZ and got regular oil testing done over numerous oil changes running Rotella T4. The result was that 15W40 produce noticeably better results than the same oil in 10W30.

You can run longer oil change intervals if you test your oil since you will know the numbers on how it's holding up.

~John
Thanks for that Radd, didn't realise the 12ht was next to the more modern. Many considering it the best toyota engine.
Funny thing though, I often notice more modern diesels with more visible smoke than my 2h. Especially when they boot it. Maybe they don't maintain.

I am on the point of over vigilant of maintenance, stumbling albeit, but proud I have little visual smoke. Of course the invisible smoke is bad too. Everyone, or most, want to feel saintly.

Hiluxes especially, I think something with emissions particulate filter clogs up I believe.

My newer stihl chainsaw has a chip to control the idle/ rev fuel, I preferred the old style with the plus/negative screws. It has a little exhaust filter, if you don,t take it out and get burning hot glowing to burn the carbon off, it chokes the little 2 stroke.

I just paid a diesel specialist to re calibrate my 2h injectors, new nozzles, $600 aud the lot. He told me not to complain, the modern electronic injectors cost that each.

I too was going to do an oil analysis, at least it shall be interesting. It would be the best way to gauge exactly how often you need to change according to driving conditions.
 
Reading through the Hot Shot’s Secret catalog I found this oil, supposed to be for older Diesel engines with zinc added. Thoughts? Anyone use this?
Are there zinc additives for dyno oils?

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