120k service

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Joined
Jan 6, 2018
Threads
22
Messages
258
Location
canada
I've been working away at my 120k mile service. Here is what I've DIY'ed so far:

AHC drain/fill twice
PS flush
Brake fluid flush
rear diff synthetic change
transfer case synthetic change
front diff synthetic change
transmission drain/fill twice
front rotors/pads
air filter
cabin filter
tire rotation


Next week:
dealer doing spark plugs/coolant change.

Anything else I should look at?
 
Grease drive shafts
 
A nice deep cleaning and detail is a nice thing to treat yourself to, as a reflection of all the fresh fluids.
 
Clean any rust that you might have off off the bottom of your vehicle and then spray it with rustoleum so it looks brand new and is protected.
 
I was always worried about doing that as if I don’t get it all and paint it, rust will spread and I won’t see it. Am I wrong?

Clean any rust that you might have off off the bottom of your vehicle and then spray it with rustoleum so it looks brand new and is protected.
 
NLGI #2 I believe. 3 places on each: center of joint at transfer case, center of shaft, center of joint at diff.

The rear is easy enough.
The front is horrible. Remove heat shield nearest transfer case and you can get that one and the middle. For the joint nearest the diff, remove skids, cross fingers, and look. If you can’t reach it coming from center of vehicle, drive it forward slightly and check again.

On either end pump until grease starts coming out. On the center I do 3 decent pumps.
 
Someone will jump in and post the picture that has all the zerk fittings. Basically all the u-joints and the slip yokes.
 
If you have trouble getting the front shaft zerks lined up just right:
set your parking brake
chock the rear wheels
put the transmission in neutral
make sure your center diff isn't locked
jack up one front tire slightly.

You'll be able to rotate that tire and as a result the front driveshaft, to whatever position you need it in.

So far I've been able to get to all of them with a basic full-size grease gun with a straight/solid pipe/nozzle, and only have to remove the transmission bash guard.

I do the rear the same way with only removing the grease guard around the front u-joint.
 

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