11/71 Turn signal and light issues (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

OK...connected the stock rear taillights. Had to clean the mounting holes on the passenger side to get a good ground. The drivers side wouldn't ground through the bracket/crossmember even after clean the surfaces, so I ran a ground wire from one of the light mounting studs and the bracket mounting bolts. After this, I still have the t/s indicators lighting up with the lights and everything flashes with the turn signals on. When I have the right turn signal on, the right rear flashes brighter than the left rear and visa versa.

All wiring is original now, with the exception of the t/s switch connector. I found the old (broken) t/s switch with the correct connector and all the bullet connector jumpers are connected to the correct colors.
 
What is broken on the original switch?

Also, BEFORE the original switch broke, did everything work correctly with the LED lights? Did this new symptom start only after replacing the switch?
Just trying to eliminate all the variables....

Can you take a pic of both switches showing the back where the wires attach?
 
The body is broken. Looks like the PO ran over it or something.

I'm not sure if everything worked prior to this. I haven't really driven it since I got it. I'm just trying to clean things up.

I don't have a way of taking a picture, but the back of each of the t/s housings where the wires are soldered on, look identical, except the jumper wire from the GW wire connect to the other side is G on new one and GY on the old one.
 
Per your T/S switch function diagram (Coolerman), I have the following conditions:

B2 hot w/nothing on (ign or t/s)
B2,F,L6,B1 and the two solder connections that are jumpered, hot w/ign on
B2,L2,L5 hot w/just lights on

Does this sound OK? Seems like L2 & L5 shouldn't be hot with the lights on. I think these are the two wires (GY & GO) at the t/s plug that are hot with just the lights on.
 
Feverdat said:
The body is broken. Looks like the PO ran over it or something.

I'm not sure if everything worked prior to this. I haven't really driven it since I got it. I'm just trying to clean things up.

I don't have a way of taking a picture, but the back of each of the t/s housings where the wires are soldered on, look identical, except the jumper wire from the GW wire connect to the other side is G on new one and GY on the old one.
Click to expand...

and therein lies the problem... I have no doubt that you have the switch wired correctly, so the problem must lie in the wiring the PO did, or as Living in the past suggested, you have a short somewhere between the park light circuit and the turn circuit. As he suggested, pull each light housing apart and look at the wiring and the sockets looking for any type of short. Is there a trailer connector? That could be the source of incorrect wiring. Since you are going to need an LED flasher anyway I would get one from:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/sea...filter/Cross_Reference_Number,FLASHER,21,3965:
These flashers will flash with just one bulb so you can troubleshoot bulb by bulb. Get the flasher, install it, remove all the bulbs but one and start testing.
Oh, though it could be the Hazard Switch, I now don't think so. It still would not hurt to take it apart and clean it just to rule that out.
 
The different wire color, between the two switches, is from the factory (inside the t/s housing), not from the PO. Per your photo of the inside of the switch, your wire is like a brown & orange. All the other colors/connections are the same and the jumper wire is coming from/going to the correct spot, just a different color wire (if that makes any sense)
 
Feverdat said:
Per your T/S switch function diagram (Coolerman), I have the following conditions:

B2 hot w/nothing on (ign or t/s)
B2,F,L6,B1 and the two solder connections that are jumpered, hot w/ign on
B2,L2,L5 hot w/just lights on

Does this sound OK? Seems like L2 & L5 shouldn't be hot with the lights on. I think these are the two wires (GY & GO) at the t/s plug that are hot with just the lights on.
Click to expand...

I do not know if the switch you have is wired internally the same as that diagram. I do know that the flasher is wired differently on your tuck compared to my 2/71. Saying that, I'm assuming that the hazard switch was in the off position?
Here are some things to check:
How many pins is your hazard switch connector? If it's a 6 pin connector, it may be plugged in backwards. My 71 has a 9 pin connector that cannot be plugged in wrong.

If you don't turn on the park lights, do the other lights work correctly?
With everything off including the ig key, turn on the hazard switch, what happens now?
 
Feverdat said:
The different wire color, between the two switches, is from the factory (inside the t/s housing), not from the PO. Per your photo of the inside of the switch, your wire is like a brown & orange. All the other colors/connections are the same and the jumper wire is coming from/going to the correct spot, just a different color wire (if that makes any sense)
Click to expand...
Yes, that jumper is actually for the brake light circuit and color does not matter.
 
Coolerman said:
I do not know if the switch you have is wired internally the same as that diagram. I do know that the flasher is wired differently on your tuck compared to my 2/71. Saying that, I'm assuming that the hazard switch was in the off position?
Here are some things to check:
How many pins is your hazard switch connector? If it's a 6 pin connector, it may be plugged in backwards. My 71 has a 9 pin connector that cannot be plugged in wrong.

If you don't turn on the park lights, do the other lights work correctly?
With everything off including the ig key, turn on the hazard switch, what happens now?
Click to expand...

Yes, hazard switch was off.

Mine is also a 9 pin.

With the parking lights off, key on, left turn signal on, everything (both dash indicators, dash lights, F&R marker lights, F&R turn signal lights and license plate light) flashes. And the same with the right signal on. The only thing that is different, is when I have the turn signal on (either side), the opposite rear turn signal light and corresponding dash indicator is a bit dimmer than the other side.

Key off and hazards on, everything listed above, flash at the same speed and brightness.
 
Found the problem! Started checking the bulbs (as per Living in the Past suggested....thank you!) PO install single filament (amber) bulbs in the front turn signals, which caused both terminals to short. Changed bulbs to double filament bulbs and lights work (w/o t/s indicators being on) and hazards (only front and rear t/s lights) flash as they should. But, I'm not done. Turn signals won't flash. They come on and blink, but only once. Since the hazards flash, the flasher should be fine.

Any more ideas!
 
I may have tried the wrong bulbs in the front. I used 1157's (the only thing I had). When I turned one, 180 degrees, it started to flash. Obviously it wouldn't fit that way. I'm going to get the correct 1034's. I'll post up afterwards.
 
1034 & 1157 did the same thing, so I just switched the wires and everything works like it should. I do have a short in the hazard switch. Was testing the turn signals and they didn't work. I jiggled the hazard switch knob and they came on. Looks like it's time to take it apart and clean it.

Thank you very much to all who gave their input & help!! This forum is priceless!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

69FJ40NJ
Headlights and parking/turn signal lights issue
Replies
8
Views
694
45Dougal
45Dougal
hanzo111
bib light turn signal mod
Replies
7
Views
925
pbgbottle
pbgbottle
T
Brakes/Turn Signal Light Issues
Replies
5
Views
808
45Dougal
45Dougal
Gub67
BJ40 Turn Signal Not Working
Replies
6
Views
944
45Dougal
45Dougal

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom