100 Series Rear Door Prop Failure - How Common Is It?

Joined
Nov 24, 2020
Messages
297
Location
Atlanta, Georgia
Website
www.youtube.com
I bought my '99 LX in 2020 right before the price spikes. When I took it home, I noticed that the sheet metal had small cracks forming around the rear door props.

Unfortunately I did not address it immediately and this happened:

***Check your rear doors for signs of this. Address it immediately if you see cracks beginning to form.

IMG_3899.jpeg
IMG_3900.jpeg


I finally got around to fixing it almost two years later. I've been living in misery every time I had to open the rear doors. My thighs had bruises from one trip because the wind blew the door into my leg 😂

First I used a file to clean up the sheet metal around the carnage, then I sprayed some white paint on the bare metal to keep it from rusting. Once the door was prepped, I used some scrap metal from a useless Ironman front bumper skid plate that didn't fit to fabricate a reinforcement plate with enough space to fit the elbow of the door prop through the big hole.

I used a cardboard template to approximate the location of the holes, shape of the scrap, and overall prototype. Once the metal plate had been cut I used the 10mm nuts to hold it roughly in place, as well as the 10mm bolt to hold the elbow onto the body. I used a ballpeen hammer to shape the metal plate into a rough fit on the door, while simultaneously tightening the 10mm nuts, forming the plate to the door.

IMG_3898.jpeg
IMG_3901.jpeg


Once I was satisfied with the fitment, I drilled two 3/8" holes through the plate and the door above and below. I inserted the rivets to test fit and make sure I was ready to start filing, prepping, and painting.

A few coats of paint later, it was time to install my little reinforcement plate. Attach elbow, lovely install 10mm nuts, slowly tighten them down with rivets inserted into holes, but not yet crimped. Once the 10mm nuts are torqued and the 10mm bolt for the elbow is in place, rivet the sheet metal down with large washers on the inside of the door panel. These add extra strength. Alternatively, you could fabricate two more identical pieces and mirror the curves, then use them instead of washers creating a sandwich.

(be careful with 10mm nuts - I wound up shearing off a stud - more on that in a follow-up)

Lube door prop with some form of grease, then slowly close/open door to test that it works. Be gentle for the first few times just in case. You don't want to mess anything up worse if the geometry isn't quite right.

The door props can be rotated and used interchangeably (marked with RR and RL depending on application).

IMG_3914.jpeg
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2020
Messages
297
Location
Atlanta, Georgia
Website
www.youtube.com
(be careful with 10mm nuts - I wound up shearing off a stud - more on that in a follow-up)
As mentioned previously, be careful. I sheared off one of the 10mm studs so I had to use a chisel to open the door prop (there are little tabs much like the tabs for the spark plug tube seals), then remove the spring and roller assemblies. Once those were out, I could press out the old 10mm stud. It is press fit and has two beads that will more than likely break off when you press it. The sheet metal folded on me so I had to straighten in back out with the appropriate size sockets.

IMG_3906.jpeg
IMG_3907.jpeg


I used a spare 10mm bolt, cut the captive washer off for clearance purposes (the studs have a very low profile head so that they fit with the spring and roller).

I then ground off the head of the bolt until it was the same width as the stud's head that I had removed (about 1/8" or 1/16" inch I'm not good w/ estimates).

Using the press and some super glue, I inserted the new "stud" and let the glue dry while it was under tension on the press.

67764285224__7FCF25DC-6DFE-4748-8A64-D100AC2AEB63.jpeg
67764284511__B74723C7-5EA3-4FC3-A36D-7810F5C46CEE.jpeg


Once it was dry I reinserted the spring and roller assemblies (more difficult than it should have been), then used a punch and hammer to seal the prop back up, hammering the tabs back into place. I greased the rollers and lubed the springs with some penetrant just for kicks.

I installed the door prop and finally have a rear door that stays opened when I need it to.

IMG_3905.jpeg

Spring and roller assemblies
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2020
Messages
297
Location
Atlanta, Georgia
Website
www.youtube.com
I’ve gotten some responses on a facebook group post about this. The general consensus is that the door prop rollers eventually become crusty and take too much effort to close, thus ripping through the door.

It seems to disproportionately affect the ‘99 and ‘00 LX which I’m guessing means that the door props built in the year ‘99 were faulty somehow. Oddly, all of the other people who have mentioned this happening have zero rust trucks in extremely hot climates.

Mine came from Arizona, most of the other guys’ came from California. Perhaps the extreme heat causes the rollers to seize, especially if they are not used that often.
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2020
Messages
297
Location
Atlanta, Georgia
Website
www.youtube.com
Another development:

There’s a part for the first generation tundra that may fit our trucks. Have not confirmed fitment yet but I would be surprised if it doesn’t work, maybe with slight modification.

 
Joined
Nov 24, 2020
Messages
297
Location
Atlanta, Georgia
Website
www.youtube.com
After a very informal survey on the UZJ100 Facebook page, I have found the following vehicles reported this problem:

1999 LX (mine)
2000 LC
2000 LX California no rust
1999 LC
1999 LC California no rust
2000 LC
unknown year (16" rims LC, probably early model)
1999 LC
2000 LX
2000 LC
1999 LX
1998 LC

2000 Total: 5
1999 Total: 5
1998 Total: 1
Unknown: 1

It seems that this problem occurs specifically on the early years, across both Lexus/Toyota
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 21, 2018
Messages
579
Location
Denver
After a very informal survey on the UZJ100 Facebook page, I have found the following vehicles reported this problem:

1999 LX (mine)
2000 LC
2000 LX California no rust
1999 LC
1999 LC California no rust
2000 LC
unknown year (16" rims LC, probably early model)
1999 LC
2000 LX

2000 Total (of responders): 4
1999 Total (of responders): 4
Unknown: 1

It seems that this problem occurs specifically on the early years, across both Lexus/Toyota
Thanks for the detail. I’m going to have to take a look at mine, though I don’t think it exhibits the problem you’ve detailed here. Mine is a Colorado rust free 2003 LX470.
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2020
Messages
297
Location
Atlanta, Georgia
Website
www.youtube.com
Thanks for the detail. I’m going to have to take a look at mine, though I don’t think it exhibits the problem you’ve detailed here. Mine is a Colorado rust free 2003 LX470.
It’s odd that there seems to be so little documentation on this.

I’ll see if I can set up a proper survey on here or via facebook
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2020
Messages
297
Location
Atlanta, Georgia
Website
www.youtube.com
More photos from the driver's side.

1376A651-7B47-4C44-BA2F-1B49027502F6.jpg
IMG_3941.jpeg


I dropped the white spray paint can and the nozzle stopped working so black it was. They don't match but whatever.

I also lost the JIS/10mm M8 x 1.25 black bolt for the elbow/body panel so I used a spare 12mm head M8 x 1.25 (gold)
 
Joined
Jun 5, 2020
Messages
270
Location
New Braunfels, TX
By chance would you be willing to make one more for a rear passenger side? I also need to find the part number for a new door stop springy thingy. :(
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2020
Messages
297
Location
Atlanta, Georgia
Website
www.youtube.com
By chance would you be willing to make one more for a rear passenger side? I also need to find the part number for a new door stop springy thingy. :(


Check the thread linked by @awesomeissquid for the part numbers.

I can’t make them fit perfectly, unfortunately. I may CAD up a model and give it a shot but that might take a few months for me to get to it.
 
Joined
Jun 5, 2020
Messages
270
Location
New Braunfels, TX
I went ahead and bought these weld-in plates along with a new door check assembly. These are the 1st Gen Tundra plates referenced above. I will try to document the outcome.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom