25 Master Cylinders
- Thread starter FJnotCJ
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Any decent hydraulics place can get the cups. the wheel cylinders are 1", and I imagine the masters are, too. I got a couple of rebuild kits from SOR a while back, but I ended up going with later brakes. I'd rather not rely on single circuit brakes.
You can get the rebuild kits from SOR for a reasonable price, the cylinder and kit is the same for both the clutch and brake, the only difference is the check valve in the brake cylinder. They're standard 1" bores, I usually just get the 1" cups and boots from a local parts house for the wheel cylinders. This is what they will look like when they come back from Apple: 
I jsut received my rebuild kits for clutch and brake masters from SOR. Same kits.
Guys, forgot to mention:
Triple check the dimension from the end of the piston to the front of the cup (compare the original and the one in the kit). I don't remember if it was mismatched parts on mine or if the new piston was a hair longer than the original. Anyhow, I had to make a new thinner retaining washer so that the piston returned far enough to the rear to clear the passage and allow fluid to return to the reservoir.
This drove me crazy for almost a year. When the fluid expanded it had nowhere to go. Every time it got hot under the hood the brakes would lock up!
EDIT:
OEM piston length: 2.285"
Aftermarket (SOR) piston length: 2.482"
Triple check the dimension from the end of the piston to the front of the cup (compare the original and the one in the kit). I don't remember if it was mismatched parts on mine or if the new piston was a hair longer than the original. Anyhow, I had to make a new thinner retaining washer so that the piston returned far enough to the rear to clear the passage and allow fluid to return to the reservoir.
This drove me crazy for almost a year. When the fluid expanded it had nowhere to go. Every time it got hot under the hood the brakes would lock up!
EDIT:
OEM piston length: 2.285"
Aftermarket (SOR) piston length: 2.482"
Last edited:
Ditto! One of the reasons I dumped the stock parts. Got tired of messing with the master cyl.
Clutch SLAVE cylinder?
What about the clutch SLAVE cylinder??
I just ordered the $22.51 clutch MASTER cylinder rebuild kit from SOR, but they say they're going to have to do some research to find out if a SLAVE rebuild kit exists for my '59 FJ25.
According to them, the $14.08 SLAVE cylinder rebuild kit on their web page is NOT for the FJ25, even though it says 1958-1966.
Is there another SLAVE cylinder (aftermarket replacement cylinder or rebuild kit) that will fit the FJ25?
Steve
What about the clutch SLAVE cylinder??
I just ordered the $22.51 clutch MASTER cylinder rebuild kit from SOR, but they say they're going to have to do some research to find out if a SLAVE rebuild kit exists for my '59 FJ25.
According to them, the $14.08 SLAVE cylinder rebuild kit on their web page is NOT for the FJ25, even though it says 1958-1966.
Is there another SLAVE cylinder (aftermarket replacement cylinder or rebuild kit) that will fit the FJ25?
Steve
dont tell me that. I have this kit sitting in my parts stash waiting to get installed.. They said the clutch slave and clutch master were the same kit.
The part number you need from SOR is 014-02-FJ25 (brake)or 018-02-FJ25 (clutch). Either number will get you the same kit for the one piece 25 master cylinder.
This is not a poke at SOR, but.....
Don't believe their catalog when you see a blanket 58 - something!
Don't take the salesperson's word......that's why we've got this forum! ;p
This is not a poke at SOR, but.....
Don't believe their catalog when you see a blanket 58 - something!
Don't take the salesperson's word......that's why we've got this forum! ;p
ok, those were the #'s I got. And he said they were both the same kit.
So, what's the part/catalog number for the clutch SLAVE cylinder rebuild kit? Is there one?
Jim, do you happen to know the wrench size for the big plug cap at the end of the master cylinder?
Just the right size for channel locks 
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cruiserman said:Just the right size for channel locks
Metric?
Actually I got it off with a pipe wrench. But now I've somehow sprung a leak at the brake line fitting to the master cylinder after rebuilding it. I'm guessing the flare on the copper tubing isn't seating properly or something.
1 1/2", but I usually clamp the nut in the vice and use a pipe wrench on the cylinder to get it apart.
Same thing happened to me Steve, make sure the copper is real clean. Took a lot of fiddling even though I couldn't see anything there.
Same thing happened to me Steve, make sure the copper is real clean. Took a lot of fiddling even though I couldn't see anything there.
Cruiser_Nerd said:
Thanks, Jim. How tight is tight enough (or too tight) for that fitting??
Steve, I was real nervous about overtightening it because you're sandwiching copper between two pieces of steel. I think I had taken the line out, cleaned up the face and maybe more importantly soaked the nut in penetrating oil and worked it so it turned free, pulled it back and put some anti sieze on it.
Thanks again, Jim. Did just what you said, and no more leaks! It's nice to have brakes again. But, no sooner did I try to crank her up for a second test spin after a shoe/drum re-adjust, the fuel pump took a dive. It's always something. 
Since you probably know my engine year better than I do (67-71??), which model fuel pump do I replace it with? Also, do you know a source for the remote oil filter lines? (They're not dead yet, but I thought I'd replace all lines and hoses while I'm at it.)
Since you probably know my engine year better than I do (67-71??), which model fuel pump do I replace it with? Also, do you know a source for the remote oil filter lines? (They're not dead yet, but I thought I'd replace all lines and hoses while I'm at it.)
Cruiser_Nerd said:
Jim, you got that right. (And, obviously something I didn't check.)
We took apart my problematic freshly rebuilt MC, and it turns out that the replacement piston in the rebuild kit is over a quarter inch longer than the original!!
(Definitely more than any retaining washer shaving could've solved.)It's no wonder there wasn't any room for the piston to retract and free up my brakes, especially when they were warm.
Anyway, we're cleaning up the old piston the best we can and rebuilding the MC again using the other fresh parts in the kit. SOR better start getting their act together on the parts they're selling claiming to be "FJ-25 friendly." Ya think?
Now I'm also wondering about the recent rebuild I just did on the clutch MC (which uses the very same rebuild kit).
An overlength piston in the clutch master would cause the same censation as riding the clutch pedal, wouldn't it??
An overlength piston in the clutch master would cause the same censation as riding the clutch pedal, wouldn't it??
