I may not be Fawked afterall

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Romer

fatherofdaughterofromer
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I may not be fawked after all.

First, Special thanks to Shawn (Magoo), Ige(Nuclearlemon) and Mike (Treeroot)

If you forgot my original saga here it is:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=16993

Essentially, when I put my new Dizzy in I did not tighten the screw down and most likely, the Dizzy worked its way out of the oil pump causeing the engine to sieze.

Mike offered to help me by swapping the block from one of 3 engines he had, but after doing a compression check it seemed that they were all a little tired. We decided to go take the oil pan off my engine and see how bad the damage was (Should have listened to pin head earlier).

Took off the #5 Rod bearing and cap and the engine was no longer seized. I.e. we could now push it and make the motor turn. The bearings had pits. 1,2,3 and 6 looked good. #4 was stuck and we elected to take that off another day when the weather was better

It looks like all that is needed may be to emory cloth the crank and buy new bearings. Need to make sure they are the right size.

Shawn did most of the work at Ige’s. While I performed my management function and watchedwhile Ige and I drank beer. I did suggest moving the 40 to try and break #5 free. That’s what did it and unstuck the motor. We know that was the problem. We just need to get # 4 off to make sure the crank is not damaged.

Shawn, Ige and Mike are great people and I value more the opportunity to get to know each of them better.

Hopefully, I will be posting the weekend that the rig is done and back up and running.

We received one tip from Ige’s friend Steve, to put the DUI dizzy in before the oil pan, tighten down the screw and make sure the oil pump is moving.

Ken
 
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I have found with the HEI(DUI) distributors that I have installed that a longer 8mmx1.25 distibutor clamp bolt is usefull with the new distributor clamp.

Glad to hear that you investigated things...and may get by with rolling in bearings. Hopefully things continue to go smooth.

The F and 2F engines, while dogged by many, are very stout and reliable units, and can take A LOT of abuse and neglect, and keep on running.

Good luck!

-Steve
 
Well I'll preach. I let my F sit too long and the open cylinders were rusted tight, I had to use a sledge on the piston tops to get them loose. I bored it over rebuilt it and now it runs like a top.
 
The Piston Bearings for #2 and #5 were both bad. The rest of them were fine. No guages were found o the crank. We took an emory cloth to the crank and only bearing material came off. Now nice and smooth. Ordered new bearings yesterday, will have to wait until next week to ge them.

We were confused for a while because the bearings had stamped on them 010 and this did not correspond to any standard 2F bearing sizes. Someone finally told us that that means 010 over which is the same as .25.

The scrapping and gauges in the bearings ended up covering the oil hole with metal. Engine seems to move freely now (by hand) with no noises. Will have to wait until we install new bearings next week, but it is looking real good.

Good thing it was only idling in my garage!
Piston Bearings 001.webp
 
Ken, it might be a bad idea to look at the mains while you're there. You can pull and reinstall 1 cap at a time, and you have to wait for the rod bearings anyway. ;)
 
That transfer case was a bear, when we got it out and Ige (nuclearlemon) was cleaning it, we saw all kinds of sealant crap were it shouldn't be and when that was cleaned up, found the bad weld. Man I was thinking, "fawked again"! But Ige being the kinda person she is said she had a perfectly good one right here, just wants a replacemnt case in the future.

It took us 2.5 hours to get the Tcase off the tranny the 2nd time (replacement of standalone tranny). Ige ended up coming up with this new pull tool we made out of a bed frame.

I tell you, Ige and Shawn worked hard and Ige really knows her stuff. She should change her handle to Cruiser Godess.
 
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