parking brake, speedi sleeve and drive shaft (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

llih

llih

Joined
Jul 15, 2005
Threads
59
Messages
661
Location
High Desert, SoCal
Need some information on parking brake and speedi sleeve. First has anyone sourced just the parking brake springs? SOR and CCOT both offer complete kits, but I only need the springs. $OR has just the springs, but the shipping is a killer for 3 small parts. Does Toyota still carry them? Can I get them from NAPA?

On the speedi sleeve, I pressed the sleeve on, but it appears the lip on the sleeve is keeping the drum from sliding all the way in. I think it is hitting the backing plate. How is best to remove the lip?

On the rear drive shaft, has anyone had a problem with the sheet metal lip becoming deformed? Mine is a little mashed and the yoke half doesn't seem to want to slide very easily.There is a bit of a clearance probem. I was thinking about cutting it off. Anyone see a problem with this or has anyone had a similar problem and fixed it?
Thanks Brad
 
1. try CDan

2. Please show a picture of what you're talking about. I recommend that you do the double seal deal at the same time and you shouldn't have to worry about leaks for another hundred K.

3. Again, a piture might help convey whatever it is that you are takling about. Do you mean the cover over the slip joint? If so remove it but you are going to need to put a shock boot/other flex on it to keep the road grime out.
 
X2


I cut my dust cover off because it was dented and impinging on the slip yoke. I did replace it with a cut down boot off a shock absorber.

Speedi sleve lip is supposed to be removed. It is scored right next to it. You can carefull hit the lip with a small sharp chisel and peel it away with needle-nosed pliars.

On the springs, I'll bet you can go to a good hardware store and match them up with something that will work....that is if you don't score with CDan.

GL

Ed
 
Yeah it's the dust cover. I was thinking that I could just remove the lip, but the idea of a boot sounds better. I gather you removed the entire 2.5-3 inch sleeve? If CDan has the springs, I am guessing then they are a dealer item? I was hoping I could locate locally and not have to order. The dealer here is OK, but as soon as I say 73, their eyes glass over and they get a puzzled look on their face. :rolleyes:
I have a True Value here in town, I will try them and by chance see if NAPA might have something.
Thanks
Brad
 
On the speedi sleeve, mine had a lip for the driver to grab when pounding it on, guessing it was scored about 3/16th up from the lip. That is all that I removed.

On the dust cover, I left just enough to provide a lip for the boot to seal against.
 
I used a die grinder and removed the lip in the casting in less time that it would have taken me to find a box to ship it in. Plus it only cost me the beer I drank while doing it and the truck was back together in 30 minutes. Send it to Cali if you want but it can be done with simple air tools.
 
When fitting speedy sleaves I always cut the lip, at two places, thro to the scored line. don't go past this line.
This makes it easer to start the pealing off , with a pair of long nose pliers.
I'm a big fan of fitting speedy sleave's to the front stub axles
 
Dgangle, I may try that . Once the lip is removed, do you just press in 1 seal, then another on top of it? Also had another question on the speedi-sleeve. Did you have to push the sleeve further onto the drum shaft then the cup that came with it allowed? I was looking at my marks and I didn't quite reach them. I was trying to center the sleeve over the groove. I am wondering if I should have used a piece of pipe. I pushed the sleeve on as far as the cup would allow. The score is covered.

As I was under there today I was thinking about replacing the gaskets that are sandwiched between the rear cover and the transfercase mount (V-8). I am adding some synthetic a friend gave me and I don't want it all to run out. The dealer only had cork gaskets. Will cork work or should I make up some paper? Has anyone thought about welding that cover to the rear transfercase mount? It seems like it would work and eliminate at least one leakage point. I may go the other route and try to fabricate a lower t-case mount and eliminate the rear mount all together. I will look again tomorrow and do some figuring.
Thanks Brad
 
I had a speedi sleeve problem myself.Didn't quite reach the rear groove as you described.Can't compete with a no-hold E-Brake.Can you Double -up a speedileeve?Not an attempted hijack.Let's call it a BUMP.:flipoff2:
 
llih said:
Once the lip is removed, do you just press in 1 seal, then another on top of it?.
Click to expand...



Yes. Drive the first seal down into the housing with a socket or other driver far enough so that you can start the next seal squarely, also being careful not to distort the outer metal area of the seal, possibly damaging it.




llih said:
Did you have to push the sleeve further onto the drum shaft then the cup that came with it allowed? I was looking at my marks and I didn't quite reach them. I was trying to center the sleeve over the groove. I am wondering if I should have used a piece of pipe. I pushed the sleeve on as far as the cup would allow. The score is covered.
Click to expand...




Most likely the sleeve driver that is supplied will not allow the sleeve to be driven onto the shaft far enough. I have used a large deep-well socket along with a piece of tubing to drive the sleeve on far enough.





llih said:
As I was under there today I was thinking about replacing the gaskets that are sandwiched between the rear cover and the transfercase mount (V-8). I am adding some synthetic a friend gave me and I don't want it all to run out. The dealer only had cork gaskets. Will cork work or should I make up some paper? Has anyone thought about welding that cover to the rear transfercase mount? It seems like it would work and eliminate at least one leakage point.
Click to expand...





The cork gasket will work fine. If you are not using studs, but rather bolts, I would suggest picking up the six studs needed to secure the mount to the rear of the case. The bolts will back out and possibly ruin the threads in the aluminum housing, which will also cause leaks.

The ‘new style’ Advance Adapters ‘propeller mount’ has the cover built into the mount so that there is no need for two gaskets. I do not see why you could not weld your cover on your existing mount.




llih said:
I may go the other route and try to fabricate a lower t-case mount and eliminate the rear mount all together. I will look again tomorrow and do some figuring.
Click to expand...




Depending on your drive train configuration and intended use for the truck, this may be the better alternative.




:beer:
 
Coolerman said:
Is there a speedi sleeve for the FJ60 3 groove crank pulley? I had bought one and stored it, pulled it out last night to install and found a groove in it ...
Click to expand...



Yep....(Same one as for the parking brake drum) ;)


CR (Chicago Rawhide) 99177



:beer:
 
Toyota Landcruiser's / Prado's / Hilux's.
Fit them on the stub axle where the main front hub seal wear's groves,
cheaper than buying new stub axle's, and tightens the seal pressure, there by reducing the possibleity of water getting into the wheel bearings.
Ive made special tools to push the speedy sleeve on.
 
oldblue said:
Toyota Landcruiser's / Prado's / Hilux's.
Fit them on the stub axle where the main front hub seal wear's groves,
cheaper than buying new stub axle's, and tightens the seal pressure, there by reducing the possibleity of water getting into the wheel bearings.
Ive made special tools to push the speedy sleeve on.
Click to expand...




Start a thread and post up some pictures please....


:beer:
 
Thought I would update on the parking brake springs. They are still available from Toyota. I got all 3 for about $10.00, but of course they had to be ordered. Napa has a hardware kit for those that need all the parts. It retails for about $20.00. No luck at Carquest.

For those tightwads on a budget.
I wanted to add that the rear transfer output seal can be had at Carquest for less $. The SKF part number that I purchased at Napa 18962 retails for almost $6.00. I was at carquest and purchased 2 more to have on hand. Carquest price $2.97. Carquest cross referenced the number to a 224820. The SKF part while being made in the USA doesn't look as well made as the Toyota part. The part from Carquest is a Bravo seal and looks like it is made as well as the Toyota part, if not better. Kragens had the SKF and wanted almost $9.00, even though it sell for $3.49 online. The dealer wanted almost $9.00 also.
 
Last edited:
Thanks everyone for the information. Which would be best for removing the lip to fit a second seal? A carbide bur or a stone?
Brad
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Griffrilla
Speedi sleeve parking brake
Replies
19
Views
2K
45Dougal
45Dougal
T
Fj40 sector shaft speedi sleeve
Replies
2
Views
573
tjhaga
T
dfarley4504
  • Question
Parking brake adjustment…
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
charliemeyer007
charliemeyer007
Honeycutt
Parking Brake Need help finding parking brake castle nut and washer
Replies
6
Views
701
Honeycutt
Honeycutt

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom