FSM Non-US Sub Tank diagram (1 Viewer)

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Cruiser804

Cruiser804

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I'd like to see the Non-US subtank FSM pages showing this set up. If you have these pages can you please post them.

Also, I'd love to see a part number for the fuel transfer assembly for a 96 80 if someone has the EPC.

I think I have read Kevin and George's write ups a 100 times, plus various other post on Mud. I'd just like to see the factory set up.

Thanks!!
 
Someone please hook a bother up. :crybaby:
 
I have schematics in an oz Gregories Manual.

The issue is that most of the 'wiring' in the NON-US factory setup connects to a NON-US version of the ECU (as far as can be determined). So, for fitting a subtank to a US 80 it is pretty academic to see what the factory wiring hookup is...

I checked pricing on a trip back to oz on the factory fuel transfer pump/solenoid and bits... it was over $1k (new).

So, unless you can source a used factory transfer pump setup, I would just go with an aftermarket transfer pump.

cheers,
george.
 
george_tlc said:
I have schematics in an oz Gregories Manual.

The issue is that most of the 'wiring' in the NON-US factory setup connects to a NON-US version of the ECU (as far as can be determined). So, for fitting a subtank to a US 80 it is pretty academic to see what the factory wiring hookup is...

I checked pricing on a trip back to oz on the factory fuel transfer pump/solenoid and bits... it was over $1k (new).

So, unless you can source a used factory transfer pump setup, I would just go with an aftermarket transfer pump.

cheers,
george.
Click to expand...

Thanks George, My tank (moving slowly across the ocean) is coming with the factory transfer pump. That's why I wanted to see how it is laid out and hooked up. I have your ECU, so I understand that will be different.
 
Romer said:
Thanks George, My tank (moving slowly across the ocean) is coming with the factory transfer pump.

Oh, you lucky son of a gun!!! I want that assembly!!!:crybaby: Did you hook up with it on ebay?

I have just about everything else.

Romer, not sure if you noticed but the non-locker ABS harness will work for a harness from the sending unit to the sill harness. (you're prolly getting that also)

Anyway since I replaced the floor harness when doing my lockers I have a set of harnesses I can look at and there is a unused gray plug on the sill that has five wires that run all the way to the front. The non-locked ABS harness fits this. They ABS end has 2 two pin plugs perfect for he sending unit wiring. In my case I have to replace the plug on the sending unit since its smashed and no longer available.

George, if you can I'd still like to see the pluming. :)
Click to expand...
 
Romer

So I looked at the harnesses tonight. Like I said there is an empty plug on the sill harness with 5 wires. The plug is above the spare tire, you can see it next to where the harness grounds to the chassis. See picture 2. The wires are the following

Yellow/Blue stripe
Yellow/Red stripe
Yellow/green stripe
Red/yellow stripe
Brown = ground

The 3 yellow ones run all the way to the 20 cavity plug in the DS kick panel. Since I have a set of spare harnesses it was easy to trace and test. I used a continuity tester to verify. I'll post a diagram showing there location in the housing at some point.

I haven't opened the kick panel yet to see if they go on from there. But they are obviously not in use. There are 4 plugs that are on the DS floor harness at the front, this is the square one of the bunch and the mid-size of the 3 rapped in foam. The sending unit has two wires, one that goes to George "ecu" and one that goes to the gauge in the overhead console. So this will make wiring this up much easier.

This is where the old ABS harness comes in. The first picture shows the harness plugged into the sending unit. I need to get a new water proof housing that mates with the ABS plug from Dan and install it on the sending unit harness and it will be good to go.

Picture one shows old non-locking harness plugged into sending unit on sub tank
Picture two shows ABS harness sill end in my hand and sill harness on table
Picture three shows sending unit (orig ABS) end of the soon to be sub tank sending unit harness.
Picture 012.jpg
Picture 008.jpg
Picture 010.jpg
 
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Cruiser804 said:
This is where the old ABS harness comes in. The first picture shows the harness plugged into the sending unit. I need to get a new water proof housing that mates with the ABS plug from Dan and install it on the sending unit harness and it will be good to go.

Picture one shows old non-locking harness plugged into sending unit on sub tank
Click to expand...

Did you ever get a weatherproof plug that fit directly into the triangular subtank sender's female socket/male terminals(mine is pictured below)?


P1010982.jpg
P1010983.jpg
P1010982.jpg
P1010983.jpg
 
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To use the triangle (as shown in the picture/post above) , u have to build the female end [toyota part #90980-11245 and 3 wires (part #82998-12440) are needed]

I learned the hard way and ordered 90980-11016 and sure enough I wasted $6.

Build a connector to use the EXISTING 6 pin to connector that is found on the chassis (that's already present.) There are 4 wires that can be used, 3 run all the way up to driver side kick panel and the 4th is ground. Toyota part # 90980-10987 is the housing. The 4 wires that go inside are 82998-12330.

This harness to make isn't cheap. I rounded a MUD discounted price at $75 due to the wires and the housings BUT you will have plug n play.

BUT wait, there is more.

You have to remember that while you just created a harness in the rear, the front driver side kick panel has to have some openings on the 20 pin cube populated (think of it as "picking up" the connections you made. The 3 wires needed to plug into the cube are 82998-12340. Once that is plugged in, you have just used the existing wiring harness and can send 3 important signals to the rear:

1) auxiliary tank sender unit
2) auxiliary tank gauge readout
3) 12+ volt ignition (splice into a wire and send this to the rear of the truck so you can connect this to the fuel pump)
 
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Hi Gents, I'm in the process fitting a sub tank into an EU spec LC80 (diesel). My truck does not have the (6 pin) connector in the sill harness. Are there any other spare cables I can use? Trying to avoid pulling a new cable.

I tried to identify the wires running in the harness, but was unable to identify them all.

white/black stripe
green/white stripe - stop light
white/black stripe - ground
green - parking light + licence plate light
blue/yellow stripe, thick wire + blue/yellow finer wire
blue
red/black stripe - backup light
green/yellow stripe - turn signal
blue/red stripe
red/white stripe
light green

There is a harness running to the rear diff lock as well. Cables in the harness:

green/blue stripe
white/black stripe
yellow/white stripe - pos sw
green/black stripe - rear diff lock indication
green/yellow stripe - rear diff lock indication
green - rear diff lock motor
 
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