Recent content by Vandyfan

I settled on the TPS because when I jumpered the test box in order to get the diagnostic code, it resulted in code 51. I assumed if it was the gear selector switch input that it wouldn’t crank at all, and assumed ac switch input had nothing to do with getting it to start.

Checking the resistance between idl and e2 pins with 0.0303” feeler gauges between the throttle lever and throttle stop screw, I had an open circuit (infinite resistance). I adjusted the TPS until I started getting a resistance measurement which was 40 ohms. But then I read about the same...

I found some feeler gauges, so I’m about to start checking my TPS sensor. My emissions control sticker says California compliant, and tps diagnostics says to apply vacuum to tps sensor for California models. What is the beat way to go about applying a vacuum? How big a difference does it make?

it was just a broken wire. I spliced it and got 12v through the connector now. My question now is, will code 51 prevent it from starting or just make it run rough? I don’t have any feeler gauges for checking the resistance measurements specified in the Haynes manual. I was wondering if I...

Code 51 = switch condition signal = no throttle position sensor, gear selector sensor, or ac signal to ECM It will turn over, but won’t crank, so I’m guessing throttle position sensor? Any further help, would be greatly appreciated!!!

A little follow up: I got the check engine light on now when ignition switch is on position. Found a bad connection at the battery positive post (3 pronged pigtail connector - the 1 horizontal pin (the 2 vertical pins checked ok). Now I will try to run a diagnostics check. Will post results...

I thought I had a bad fuel pump, but before I dropped the fuel tank, I checked the EFI Main Relay. I never get 12volts from the ECM to the coil for the EFI Main Relay (checked voltage at the pig tail connector red wire and back to negative battery terminal). I am checking it with ignition switch...

That is a very thorough breakdown of how it works. Thank you for the time and effort. It seems the vcv is an almost insignificant piece of the vacuum puzzle though. Also, with my 3FE plumbed correctly it is still running like crap all of the sudden.

In an attempt to better explain what I currently have vacuum hose wise: I have 2 hoses going from the air cleaner to the distributor cap and 1 going from the air cleaner to the throttle body, I have 2 hoses going from the vcv to the throttle body, 1 hose from vcv to the canister, and 1...

My fj62, 3FE, just started running like crap and has all the signs of being vacuum related. While poking around at vacuum hoses, I noticed what I think is the VCV (directly above the "canister") had a small nipple with no hose connected. The only hoses I found dangling loose come from the...

Figured it out after several attempts. Studs and nuts in, oops forgot tensioner pulley bracket. At least I didn't take the alternator bracket off, so that side was more obvious.

In the middle of replacing the water pump and now I have forgotten which ones are studs and which are bolts if any. Do all 4 holes use studs? If so, I may have lost 1.

And that's an understatement

Does anybody have the part numbers for all 3 3FE belts?

My issue is different, but started with no heat in the cab. Changed thermostat with prerequisite breaking of bolts. Now I'm in process of replacing the water pump. A pic in progress, is all this really necessary? I'm used to Chevy or jeep water pumps that are a 1-2 hour job.