fj62 water pump nightmare!

Cantinero

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OK I give! I am in the middle of changing my water pump out on my 88' fj62 and I can't get the $^&* thing out. The hoses are all loose even the 3" one that runs from the pump to the steel pipe. The same water inlet for the lower pump side where the 3" hose ran from is hitting on the tensioner pully bracket that is also holding my power steering pump and a/c compressor. It will not clear the bracket and come free, because of the two stud bolts in the block in the lower passenger side of the pump. Do I really have to take the bracket off that holds the power steering pump and the a/c compressor??!! I can't believe that that is how it would be just to change the water pump. Somebody, anybody, with any suggestions would be of great help.

thanks, D
 
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Double nut the studs and remove them so you have the clearance necessary to remove the pump. Piece of cake!
 

Cantinero

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Thanks for your suggestion overhanger I tried it, but the stock nuts would not let me get on them to do this. I am going to hit nappa in the AM and get some new nuts and give it a go. Have you encountered this before? Also, I was thinking about changing the studs out for regular bolts so I would not have to go through this again if it ever happend. Is this a good idea or not? Has anyone done this before?

D
 
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I've been in the same situation as you and have been able to double nut with the stock flanged nuts but getting some non-flanged nuts would make it easier. The flanges do make it tough to get the wrench on to tighten the nuts, that's for sure, but maybe my open end wrenches are just skinny enough to get on them where yours aren't. Just did the same job a couple of months ago so what you are experiencing is fresh in my feeble brain. Napa nuts will work for you and good luck!!
 

Cantinero

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I'm glad then that I am not alone here. I was so close to the problem for too long that the double nut trick never crossed my mind. Kinda like not seeing the forest because of all the trees in my way. I was so miffed as to why Toyota did the studs here, then I just started getting more pissed as time went. What I wouldn't give for a skinny open end wrench right now!

So do you think regular bolts of the correct length would be OK or should I stick with the studs? I am also replacing the stock fan with a 2800 cfm "black magic" electric fan. I do a lot of traveling to Mexico w/ the girlfriend and I don't want the road side hassle of changing a fan belt if one goes.

Also, I have read in here about "burping" the cooling system. What is this and how is this done? I have done searches on it and all I could find were references to the term. I have only had this truck for about 3 months and I am new to the cruiser lifestyle that you all love so much. The truck was really abused before me and I am now left to pick up the pieces and put it back together right this time.
 

Ming89FJ62

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Burping the coolant system is easy. W/ the engine cold open the radiator cap, position the truck so that the radiator is higher than the back end (front end on ramps or even a curb should do), start the enging and get the coolant up to temp so that the thermostat opens, rev the engine and watch for the coolant level to drop in the top of the radiator - you'll probably get a "burp" as the air works it way out of the radiator. Put the cap back on - make sure you have coolant in the resevior and you're done.
 
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In the middle of replacing the water pump and now I have forgotten which ones are studs and which are bolts if any. Do all 4 holes use studs? If so, I may have lost 1.
 

4Cruisers

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In the middle of replacing the water pump and now I have forgotten which ones are studs and which are bolts if any. Do all 4 holes use studs? If so, I may have lost 1.
Three studs and one bolt - bolt @ bottom.
 
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Mar 1, 2015
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Figured it out after several attempts. Studs and nuts in, oops forgot tensioner pulley bracket. At least I didn't take the alternator bracket off, so that side was more obvious.
 
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