Recent content by TrickyT

What about one of these on that new virgin window:

You should confirm that your A/T Oil temp lamp is not burned out. Otherwise you may get sucked down a rabbit hole thinking it's one thing and not keeping an open mind about other possible problems. My post that you quoted was about all 3 lamps (A/T Oil Temp, Brake, and Oil Level) not lighting...

Yes, there are plenty of mechanical based controls and also several based on engine vacuum. If you've looked at the FSM you've no doubt seen references to "VSV" (vacuum switching valves). Controlling engine and vehicle operation using vacuum sensors and valves is a whole other topic. If you ever...

Oh wait, there's more. The FZJ80 ECU also decides at what vehicle speed and engine load the transmission shifts, what gear to use, and when to lock the torque converter. So there a whole lot going on in that "silver enclosed thing under the dash" as you put it. And to give you an idea of how...

Yes, that's it. None of the sensors on the FZJ80 contain microprocessors that I'm aware of. But they all emit some type of signal that varies with some aspect of engine operation. The simplest is the coolant sensor. It's essentially a variable resistor whose value depends on temperature. If you...

I think Grok is misleading you badly about the FZJ80 ECU. It's providing general background knowledge about ECU's and trying to say that it applies specifically to the FZJ80 when it doesn't have any direct information about that ECU. Why do I say this? Because the FJZ80 is completely...

The expansion valve includes a "bulb" that controls the opening of the valve. I don't know how to test if the bulb and valve are working correctly as a unit and the FJ62 FSM is silent on this issue except to acknowledge the bulb's presence. But if the expansion valve was "closed too far"...

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the "low pressure" switch connects to the high pressure side of the system. It's there so that if there's too little freon in the system or the compressor isn't working correctly, it stops the clutch from engaging and potentially destroying...

Also, In one of your earlier posts you said "the pressure would go to about 30psi and then drop to 10psi" which I assumed, now I think mistakenly, was being measured on the output side of the compressor. But then in a later post you said "Low side was going from 10-30 and l believe high side was...

Yes, the line from the condenser goes to the IN side of the dryer (aka "Receiver" in the diagram). Here's general description of the A/C system:

Let's make sure that it's the pressure switch that is causing the compressor to cycle, because cycling every 1-2 secs is awfully fast. Do you have any test leads available? Something like this would be ideal: Or a wire with a small alligator clip on the end: Attach this to the same place on...

Wow. What a heroic effort! The low pressure switch should open if the output side of the compressor drops below ~30psi. So if yours is dropping to 10, that's why the compressor clutch disengages. So I think your pressure switch is working the way it should. So why can't the compressor make more...

I just noticed something from the photo you included in post #115. See the position of the red knob on the temperature potentiometer? Compare that to my photo in post #5. Yours is set as low as it can go, which should make the A/C run so much that the evaporator coils freeze over. My guess is...

Nope; doesn't bypass the low pressure switch.

Happy to help. I think it would be good to disconnect that added wire if you can as it bypasses the temperature sensor located near the evaporator. That sensor is designed to shut off the compressor when the evap coils get close to freezing over, so without that protection the compressor will...