Recent content by LC1979

Sounds good. That's what i was going to assume. I'll provide updates when done. Hopefully this weekend

Do i need to jumper the diagnostic box before or just go ahead and advance while its running and fully warm (without jumpering) ?

I believe around 7 degrees (within factory spec). Maybe I'll bump it up a tiny bit. Do you have any issues with CA smog having it above factory specs? I may not get to it this weekend but I will continue to give updates. thank you

Looked at it today. Can’t seem to find any vacuum leaks. Still having the issue. If I raise the rpm a bit by hand (around 650 in gear), alternator charges how I think it should. Hopefully I’ll be able to mess with it more this weekend.

Yeah. I’ll go over vacuum this weekend. Gotta get those rpm’s up a bit. Seems like 50 rpm’s can make a huge difference with the alternator.

Thank you. What does your LC idle at in park and in gear. I feel like I'm idling a little low. (about 630-640 in park and about 600 in gear) Above 2000 rpm I get 14.0-14.1v which seems about right. Warmed up and in gear at a stop light with headlights, brakes on, turn signal on, and heater...

Marco Lau, I was wondering what voltage you're alternator is outputting at idle in gear. I just installed the same unit from VintageTeqParts and it seems to be under performing at idle with any kind of additional load. i.e. headlights, heater on low, brake pressed, turn signal Thank you

92 3fe FJ80

I also did this about eight years ago. I don't remember it taking but 20 minutes to complete. I did not remove the hard lines from the master cylinder. I think i disconnected everything needed under the dash, unbolted master cylinder and moved booster up and out.

Any thoughts on the egr modulator finding above? Hoping for some more ideas before I admit defeat and take it to the shop. Thanks

Again, all of this is when engine is fully warmed up

Something I noticed today as I was messing with it for the thousandth time. When I have the 2000 rpm rev and let off stumbling/stall. (Rpm’s drop below 4-500 and dies or almost dies) If I disconnect one of the vac lines on the Egr modulator it will not stall.

Update: cleaned electrical connector to tps. Drove about 100 miles then problem came back. Replaced tps with new oem and adjusted per fsm. Still have idle/stalling problem.

Yeah. I think I’m going to replace the tps with a oem one tomorrow. Then I should be able to rule out a possible faulty tps. On the bright side, I would assume that my install and adjustment must be pretty close. So now I’m thinking tps or electrical plug?

TPS doesn’t fit into the tabs. Can only lay on the out side. Put everything back together and cleaned off the tps contacts and code 51 was gone only to be replaced with 41.