Recent content by khymel5

Hey folks, I feel like we might be passing over an important detail from the first page: Now it is also giving me trouble starting. I went to start and after idling about 5 seconds it died. Then tried to restart it and it wouldn’t turn over. Let it rest a bit and then it turned over and I drove...

It would be a very strange coincidence if the PNP switch just happened to fail right after you disassembled and reassembled the shifter. Are you worried that maybe during reassembly, one of the connectors didn't seat fully, or maybe there was some corrosion preventing a good electrical...

BTW, if you would like to take a look at the FSM for yourself, this is where I downloaded it. It's for the 2004 model year, but it should work for any 100 series with the A750 transmission (2003-2007). If you do take a look, there's an automatic transmission section, but also take a look at the...

Could you check your voltage across the battery terminals, both with the engine off and with the engine running? Low voltage is known to cause a myriad of weird electrical symptoms in the 100 series.

You should remove the A pillar trim so you can get a good look at the inner side of the windshield seal. Pry off the little covers on the grab handles and remove the JIS screws. Then the handles will come off and the trim should lift up then out.

Maybe it goes without saying but give it a few hours of soaking with penetrating oil before you risk rounding/snapping the bolt. I’ve heard anecdotally that liquid wrench, pb blaster, or 50/50 ATF and acetone are the best penetrating oils.

It's probably your hub flange / CV axle teeth which are stripped and grinding past one another. This is much more common than transmission failure, and much easier/cheaper to fix. Try engaging the center differential lock and seeing if the car will move. If it moves with the CDL engaged, hub...

Hmm, you're right... I see tons of pictures of 89413-32011 online,, and they all look like they're 90 degrees. There are some aftermarket ones that mention they are a replacement for this part #, and those are straight. Is it possible that either one would work, and you currently have an...

According to parts.olathetoyota.com, 89413-32010 aka 89413-32011 does not fit a 1999 Land Cruiser. They're saying 83181-12020 is the right part. That one looks like this: Does this look like what you need?

Yep https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~block~assy~fusible~link~82620-60030.html

Wow, glad to hear you figured this out. If I'm not mistaken, that part is 82620-60030

Hey Stephen, How did this turn out? Did jiggling a wire solve the issue once and for all? :D

That's exactly what 2001LC does in the thread I linked above, good reading material if you're preparing to do it yourself. I wouldn't attempt it unless I had covered parking at home.

Wow, they really butchered it. Here's what I would do in your situation. Order ALL the parts you'll need to do the windshield job, including prep chemicals, rivets, trim, moulding, etc. Then have safelite come out and remove your old windshield. Then you can take a few days to clean/prep it...

Haha, don't do that. It sounds like you caught your problem early enough that your symptoms were only the result of residual moisture, and no serious corrosion has happened yet. The thing to do is: make sure your cruiser doesn't get rained on until the windshield is fixed, and get it fixed...