PLEASE HELP! 2000 LC dies while driving/no check engine **UPDATED 8/17/21**

[flintknapper]

My sister bought a 2000 LX earlier this year. She was having the same problem with it dying on her and not throwing a code. Well, sometimes it would throw a misfire code, but it was always a different cylinder. It ended up being that the crank position sensor wires were hitting the pulley and every once in a while would short enough for it to die.

Cam position sensor can do the same thing as well. After a Timing Belt replacement it isn't uncommon for the person doing the job to NOT properly route the wiring and the serpentine belt wears against it....all but cutting it in two. So yes, those would be things to look at also, but both can/should generate a code.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Sensor or fuel pump

I'd check all the wires as noted (usually a mechanic has not routed something properly) and if nothing replace the fuel pump first. Go for a long drive with a technician

 

[gregnash]

Yup agreed with the guys. Based on the intermittent dying, regardless of speed, with the sputtering now beforehand that would lead me to fuel delivery. Have the dealership focus on that and test the system for proper fuel pressure and watch the fuel trims to ensure that the pump is delivering. I just went through a similar situation as you chasing a vague code that ended up being something different for me. Long story sort, the things that are getting replaced (for the most part) are stuff that start to fail around this time, so you are getting stuff out of the way.

Definitely not fun to have to keep throwing money at it, but maybe tell the dealership that instead of getting their "master tech" in on this, that you want to them to pull resources from Toyota as they were supposed to have fixed last time (and you won't get any compensation for it NOT being fixed, they just keep your money) and you don't necessarily have faith that THIS TIME it will be corrected.

 

[Wendy2000LC]

ANOTHER UPDATE!!!! God help me

The dealership kept test driving it, but only for about 10 miles at a time, which I explained to them it’s probably not going to stall in that short distance. So I arranged to go in and take the test drive with the Service Foreman. Drive 40 miles. No stall. Long story short they said they didn’t want to work on my truck any longer as they felt they couldn’t diagnose nor fix it. *slap my head* Really? WOW! What is my hope now?!
They did return my money to me but not without a fight.
What good is an unsafe truck to me? I cannot safely put it on the road.

Which leaves me where I am now.
I priced new 4 Runner. DISGUSTED.

The manager at the Dealership told me I’m going to keep trying to fix it and it’s going to be one part after another. And possibly not fix the existing issue.

You know I don’t mind paying to fix the truck if it fixes the problem. But the main issue is this:

You can put parts on it but sometimes it’s going to take driving it 200+ miles to figure out those parts didn’t work. It’s just that intermittent!

And each time at a cost of possibly $1500 +? Who can afford that? I certainly cannot.

My question is “Am I being irrational at this point?” I’ve had my truck almost 22 years. Great truck. Until now NO MECHANICAL PROBLEMS.

Everyone keeps telling me it’s time to lay it to rest. 275,000 miles it gave me. But I keep stomping my foot and saying Nooooooo. It can go way further. And in the back of my mind I picture a mechanic buying it from me and finding one loose wire and enjoying it for another 22 years.
I’m stubborn and I feel I can’t give up. I just need to find someone who can figure this out. But who???? Please someone read this who knows someone who can fix my rig!!!!!

 

[Spike555]

ANOTHER UPDATE!!!! God help me

The dealership kept test driving it, but only for about 10 miles at a time, which I explained to them it’s probably not going to stall in that short distance. So I arranged to go in and take the test drive with the Service Foreman. Drive 40 miles. No stall. Long story short they said they didn’t want to work on my truck any longer as they felt they couldn’t diagnose nor fix it. *slap my head* Really? WOW! What is my hope now?!
They did return my money to me but not without a fight.
What good is an unsafe truck to me? I cannot safely put it on the road.

Which leaves me where I am now.
I priced new 4 Runner. DISGUSTED.

The manager at the Dealership told me I’m going to keep trying to fix it and it’s going to be one part after another. And possibly not fix the existing issue.

You know I don’t mind paying to fix the truck if it fixes the problem. But the main issue is this:

You can put parts on it but sometimes it’s going to take driving it 200+ miles to figure out those parts didn’t work. It’s just that intermittent!

And each time at a cost of possibly $1500 +? Who can afford that? I certainly cannot.

My question is “Am I being irrational at this point?” I’ve had my truck almost 22 years. Great truck. Until now NO MECHANICAL PROBLEMS.

Everyone keeps telling me it’s time to lay it to rest. 275,000 miles it gave me. But I keep stomping my foot and saying Nooooooo. It can go way further. And in the back of my mind I picture a mechanic buying it from me and finding one loose wire and enjoying it for another 22 years.
I’m stubborn and I feel I can’t give up. I just need to find someone who can figure this out. But who???? Please someone read this who knows someone who can fix my rig!!!!!

Keep it. Be smart when throwing parts at it. Do not use the dealer. Their hourly rate is ridiculous. They can’t charge you $150/hr to drive your truck around all day waiting for it to stall. There’s no money in it for them and it’s a waste of the tech’s time.

There is not much else it can be. The dealer is not going to spend the time to truly diagnosis it, they have to many other high paying jobs to do. They need you in and out quick. It’s all about turn over. Replacing parts of the throttle body takes more time than just replacing the whole thing. Saves them time, they make the same amount of money.

Find a independent shop, preferably one that will install customer parts. Meaning you buy the part, they install it.
Replace the MAF sensor. Crank position sensor. Cam position sensor.
All of those are inexpensive as long as you do not buy from the dealer.
Also replace your fuel pump.
And buy yourself a OBD II scanner that reads live data. You can get a decent one off Amazon for around $100.
With the OBDII scanner you can watch for ignition problems, the scanner will show you mis fires, which will point you towards bad coils and spark plugs.

Look at it this way, $40,000 buys a lot of parts for your beloved rig.

 

[Rix 45]

Hi Wendy,

I followed your posts a couple of weeks ago and was having similar dying and not starting problems. '98 LX 470 250 K miles. After throwing an air mass sensor and the fuse box fixes. Made sure the sensor wires on the front of the engine were not touching the serpentine belt. Ended up replacing the engine temp. sensor. It was cheap and is located on the front right of the engine. It was so old the top plastic portion crumbled when removed. It was worn out and signaling to the computer too hot and too cold randomly. Lexus has run flawlessly since.

Good luck,
Eric.

 

[KillerBox]

Search my name on this forum and you will see the problems that I was having on my 2001 LX. I changed a bunch of things until it was finally discovered that the MAF sensor was slow to respond. The babies might be built to last forever but, 20 years is approaching the maximum life span for electronic sensors.

So far, I have been slowing updating all the sensors even if they are not giving me any trouble because my LX is just about flawless & I do plan on keeping it forever!

 

[utflowerman]

Find a reputable LC shop in your area and take it to them. I wouldn’t mess with the dealer if I didn’t have to. Not to say anything negative about dealers, but a shop that specializes in LCs will know the vehicle much better than the dealer will.

 

[Wendy2000LC]

Thank you Spike for your advice. After I wrote this I called Gary @ Mudrak, who comes highly recommended here. He’s not close to me. But he’s not too far either. I’m Southern California and he’s Northern California. Im going to take my truck to him because he says he can fix it. He’s been doing this forever in a day and I have faith in him.

And by the way, I have been in touch with him throughout this ordeal and have NEVER found anyone as kind as him with amazing customer service. He has spoken to me on the phone on numerous occasions and is very patient and even offered to talk to the mechanic at the dealership.
This kind of customer service just isn’t available anymore. Sadly.

I didn’t send him my truck before because I just couldn’t wrap my head around how to get it 450 miles away. I’m just going to ship it to him. Hey-that’s way cheaper than one dealership invoice.

And please if anyone has any input I’d love to hear it. Im going to share it with Gary cause ya know….two heads are better than one.
Thanks everyone. As always I appreciate all of you and I will continue to update.

I’M NOT GIVING UP TIL ITS FIXED!!!!!

 

[2020 Rocks]

Hi Wendy,

I followed your posts a couple of weeks ago and was having similar dying and not starting problems. '98 LX 470 250 K miles. After throwing an air mass sensor and the fuse box fixes. Made sure the sensor wires on the front of the engine were not touching the serpentine belt. Ended up replacing the engine temp. sensor. It was cheap and is located on the front right of the engine. It was so old the top plastic portion crumbled when removed. It was worn out and signaling to the computer too hot and too cold randomly. Lexus has run flawlessly since.

Good luck,
Eric.

I had similar no start rough running issues, when I changed the temp sensor it did nothing, so I thought maybe bad sensor from autozone, bought oem sensor, same problems still. It turned out to be the wiring harness to the temp sensor was fried a couple inches from the sensor. Cut back to clean wire, installed sensor and problems ceased.

 

[flintknapper]

ANOTHER UPDATE!!!! God help me

The dealership kept test driving it, but only for about 10 miles at a time, which I explained to them it’s probably not going to stall in that short distance. So I arranged to go in and take the test drive with the Service Foreman. Drive 40 miles. No stall. Long story short they said they didn’t want to work on my truck any longer as they felt they couldn’t diagnose nor fix it. *slap my head* Really? WOW! What is my hope now?!
They did return my money to me but not without a fight.
What good is an unsafe truck to me? I cannot safely put it on the road.

Which leaves me where I am now.
I priced new 4 Runner. DISGUSTED.

The manager at the Dealership told me I’m going to keep trying to fix it and it’s going to be one part after another. And possibly not fix the existing issue.

You know I don’t mind paying to fix the truck if it fixes the problem. But the main issue is this:

You can put parts on it but sometimes it’s going to take driving it 200+ miles to figure out those parts didn’t work. It’s just that intermittent!

And each time at a cost of possibly $1500 +? Who can afford that? I certainly cannot.

My question is “Am I being irrational at this point?” I’ve had my truck almost 22 years. Great truck. Until now NO MECHANICAL PROBLEMS.

Everyone keeps telling me it’s time to lay it to rest. 275,000 miles it gave me. But I keep stomping my foot and saying Nooooooo. It can go way further. And in the back of my mind I picture a mechanic buying it from me and finding one loose wire and enjoying it for another 22 years.
I’m stubborn and I feel I can’t give up. I just need to find someone who can figure this out. But who???? Please someone read this who knows someone who can fix my rig!!!!!

Wendy, you have PM

 

[Wendy2000LC]

Thank you! You have mail.

 

[Spike555]

I had a similar problem with my Land Rover years ago. The temp sensor was bad and it was telling the ECU that the engine was at -40 when it wasn’t. So the engine was being flooded because a cold engine needs more fuel than a hot one.
My mpg was really bad. The truck wold stall when coming off the expressway and coming down the off ramp. Rough Idle.
Using a OBDII scanner with live data I was able to see the actual engine temp, the dash gauge is basically only there for looks.
If your truck is flooding that would account for the rough idle, especially when hot.

Keep us posted. Good luck.

 

[joshAUST]

It might be worth buying a USB OBD2 reader from Ebay that works with Toyota Techstream.
I bought a different, pretty generic, model originally, and it only showed some codes, but failed to show some ABS codes, for example.
Running Toyota techstream with the reader, you should be able to get a lot of real time info - such as engine temp, etc, that Spike555 and others suggest checking.

I'm pretty sure this is the one I use with my 2003 UZJ100, although I don't think I got it from this seller, and you may find it cheaper:

AU 16pin Mini VCI Toyota Lexus TIS TechStream OBD2 Diagnostic Interface Scanner | eBay

Single cable for MINI VCI FOR TOYOTA is cost-effective. 1 x Mini VCI 14 pin interface cable. Support for Toyota TIS OEM diagnostic software. Support all the diagnostic communication protocols needed for Toyota (since 1996).

www.ebay.com.au

I found the Toyota Techstream software showed a C1256 error - Brake accumulator low pressure, whereas the other generic scan code reader showed no relevant codes.

You can get it running on any laptop (32/64 bit, win xp,vista,7,10) by using a virtual machine.
There's plenty of info on how to get it working here:

How-To: TechStream In 5 Minutes

Getting Techstream up and running can be a bit of a pain. Hopefully this helps someone get started quickly. Step 1: Purchase an OBD-II / Mini-VCI interface. - I have sold out of my cables and supply chains are back in order, so no reason to purchase more. Anything like this will work: Mini-VCI...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[hickuptruck]

Buy a new maf sensor. I went through everything you did, ended up being a bad maf sensor.

 

[khymel5]

Hey folks, I feel like we might be passing over an important detail from the first page:

Now it is also giving me trouble starting. I went to start and after idling about 5 seconds it died. Then tried to restart it and it wouldn’t turn over. Let it rest a bit and then it turned over and I drove it about 30 miles.

As far as I know, fuel delivery problems, sensor problems, throttle body problems, etc, would never cause a failure to turn over. It would need to be an electrical issue to cause a failure to turn over, right?

Edit: just remembered this thread from 2019: Help! 2006 LX470 starts but won’t shift from park. Gauges/ head unit dead as well. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/help-2006-lx470-starts-but-wont-shift-from-park-gauges-head-unit-dead-as-well.1155929/page-2

Do a visual check on your fusible link.

 

[Spike555]

Hey folks, I feel like we might be passing over an important detail from the first page:

Now it is also giving me trouble starting. I went to start and after idling about 5 seconds it died. Then tried to restart it and it wouldn’t turn over. Let it rest a bit and then it turned over and I drove it about 30 miles.

As far as I know, fuel delivery problems, sensor problems, throttle body problems, etc, would never cause a failure to turn over. It would need to be an electrical issue to cause a failure to turn over, right?

Edit: just remembered this thread from 2019: Help! 2006 LX470 starts but won’t shift from park. Gauges/ head unit dead as well. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/help-2006-lx470-starts-but-wont-shift-from-park-gauges-head-unit-dead-as-well.1155929/page-2

Do a visual check on your fusible link.

That is a good catch.
What needs clarification though is what does she mean by “turn over”? To some people that means it won’t start. To others that means the starter won’t do anything.

 

[flintknapper]

That is a good catch.
What needs clarification though is what does she mean by “turn over”? To some people that means it won’t start. To others that means the starter won’t do anything.

^^^^

Yes.

The nomenclature/terms unfortunately are not standardized among people.

"Start": Should mean exactly that and nothing else. The Engine Starts and Runs *no matter how poorly*

"Turn Over": Synonymous with 'Crank' refers to the process required to rotate the engine in order for it to start. I.E. the mechanical starter engages the flywheel, spinning the crankshaft and building compression in the cylinders. At the same time fuel is injected or otherwise drawn into the cylinders along with air and spark is created to ignite the compressed mixture.

 

[Wendy2000LC]

UPDATE 8/17/21

I had to step away a while because I truly wanted to lay the truck to rest after the dealer told me it wasn’t worth working on anymore. That really broke my spirit and made me feel like giving up. I mean if a TOYOTA DEALER can’t fix it then what???!!!! At least that’s what I started believing. No wonder I never went to dealer prior to this! And I NEVER will again. Not after this experience.

Once I gathered my senses again , I decided to reach out to a local forum (Nextdoor) and ask for advise to a good old school mechanic who could diagnose a no code problem.

I guess I also need to mention that when the problem first started, my dad, who is a retired college automotive professor Came to look at it briefly and put three pieces of white stickers on three relays and told me to have them looked into which I promptly forgot about. *big oops moment*!
he had sent me the following photos which he now reminds of. Ugh. Why did I not follow up on this? I was just swamped with work….

I dropped the truck at the mechanic and had him call my dad. Yes I felt like I was 10 again.
They agreed after testing the truck that all 3 relays should be changed along with the fuel pump.
the mechanic said when he ran the truck the Fuel Injector relay was getting wayyyyy too hot and the fuel pump was running at too low of pressure.
Why didn’t the dealer find this?!!!!

Because the problem has been so intermittent the mechanic suggested city driving 1000 miles before deeming it “safe for freeway and fixed”

I have driven it now 250 miles and so far so good. And I might add that the shaking is now non existent also.

I’m not sure I need 1000 miles to feel it’s fixed. I think 500 may be enough. In the past 8 months I haven’t been able to drive it anymore than a couple hundred miles without a stall.
I will update again once I reach 500 miles.

BTW- for the past 250 miles I’ve driven it, I have tried purposely to put the engine under as much strain as I can (my dads advice) So that means outdoor temperature here in California about 100 degrees, A/C on full blast and pedal to the metal when it’s possible.

A huge thanks to *flintknapper* who I reached out to via PM for extra support, who maybe, unbeknownst to him, gave me the fortitude to push on and realize it COULD BE FIXED. It’s been quite the emotional journey with the good ol’ girl and I can only pray that she’s finally fixed!

thank you everyone for all your help, advice and thoughts. Don’t know what I’d do without you! Many blessings to all until my next update!

Any comments or advice is much welcome!

 

[2020 Rocks]

It’s hard to have confidence after dealing with gremlins for so long…I’ve done various repairs to my vehicles over the years and often have that what if such and such happens as I pull out of th driveway for a long trip. I’d get AAA for piece of mind and maybe put together a bag of some fuses and some extra relays to have on hand just in case.