Recent content by digitalmarker

My yakima bars came with their own proprietary mounts that attach to the factory holes in the roof.

Did you have to cut the bumper to make them both fit?

Alright folks, got everything working and buttoned up over the weekend, partially thanks to this thread and a few other folks who I talked to separately who have done something similar. Posting the final solution if others are looking to do this in the future since there are no definitive...

Ok thanks. I have the factory lights now and they are working fine - trying to figure out how to wire up the LED bulbs now.

Thanks. Are you running LED lights? Or factory bulbs?

Can you post a link to the video? Not seeing it in your post. I was looking at the links to the harnesses you shared, but don't know which wire goes to which adapter plug to get them properly wired up.

Any chance you can get pictures of your wiring setup, from one plug/harness to the other? Trying to copy and paste this setup one to one. At this point I backed off the idea of having all four lights on at the same time for low beam, so looking to wire up the low beams and have them stay on...

Are the wires taped up at the connector, or can you see which wire is going where from one plug to the other? That's all I am looking for so I can copy and paste it.

Bump - anyone?

Hey folks, I got a hold of a full quad headlight kit to install onto my 80, converting from a 9005/9006 to the H4 style connector. There are some nuances with the "switching ground" wire, which I cannot wrap my head around. For full transparency I am super inept when it comes to anything...

Bumping this thread in case this helps someone. I adjusted the pushpin while it was on the truck to get it dialed perfectly, based on advice of another member on here. With the new booster installed, I was still getting quite a bit of dead pedal travel. Even when using the push pin...

Wheel bearings are good. Recently redone and tested. I am deleting abs at the same time and replacing the MC, which are the more likely culprits.

Another observation - the rod end of the new OEM booster is about 1/4” longer than the one I am replacing. The new unit itself is bigger/taller. Does this affect the positioning of the clevis that attaches to the pedal?

Was not obviously to me unfortunately. This is what I am seeing underneath - what do I adjust?

Hey all, installing a new OEM booster. The one I am replacing had a ton of empty pedal travel, among many other issues. Likely a bad MC too which I am also replacing. I used a tool to measure the position of the MC piston vs the position of the push rod pin. There is just a slight gap between...