Recent content by DeadguyLLC

I have a Holley 770 Truck Avenger carburetor. I want to convert the electric choke to a manual. I got the conversion kit from summit, but there is no diagram and the instructions reference parts I've never heard of and very skimpy to boot. Can anyone help?

This is the roll cage I have currently in my FJ. It's not the stock one, but I have no idea of the strength. I'm wondering if I should just ad spreader bars on the ends, and tie it to the frame, or if I should get a whole new cage.

Why do you say the factory roll bars are no good?

Brian, the roll bar I have has the windshield hoop, the rear hoop, and two bars connecting them but closer to the center of the cage when they should be on the outer edges. Basically, take the aftermarket roll cages that have 4 connecting bars between front and back, and only leave the center ones.

I have the factory one and I was looking at the metal cage ones. They just bolt on, so I would need to extend them anyways to weld them to the frame. Why no just do that with the factory ones, and buy these to make the top bars extend out for better head coverage in a roll over? any opinions...

I've read the other rubberized undercoating threads. Unlike all of the standard undercoatings, the Eastwood coating is harder and uses their same rust protector coating that their paint uses (it's like POR 15). I've been using fluid film in the past, i was just hoping to get something a little...

Has anyone used the POR 15 or Eastwood rubberized undercoating? I'm think of applying that to both the underside and bed of the truck. I don't have a back seat there, just a bolted in tool chest, air compressor, and battery box.

I'm actually in PA now. Thanks for all the advice. I've been spraying fluid film on the underside in the winter to fight the road salt. The frame halves are partially separated in a small gap on one side. I think one of the pins that hold them together just broke on one side. The inside isn't...

Still working on and upgrading my 1978 FJ40. Cooper SS pro 35 inch tires, rebuilt 454 GM big block V8, rebuilt heavy duty Turbo 350 tranny, Orion transfercase, Front and rear ARB lockers, cromolly axles and birfields, Holly truck avenger carb, cb, and more. The frame is in pretty descent shape...

I already did that. The headlight switch is a little more complex than the hazard, and the '78 has a stretched out spring over a semicircle and a moving bar over it. Some where in that whole system is the short

So the 1978 FJ 40 stock headlight switch is apparently unavailable. Mine is the original from 1978 and in bad shape. It's developed a short in the part that regulates dash instrument light intensity. I checked all the lead in wires and it appears to just be in the switch itself. So I need a new...

yeah, mine emits a mild whine at about 40 and up, it gets incrementally louder, but it's still real minor. Had a CJ5 that was much worse, with a rebuilt like new transfercase. It had about a 1/2 quart of gear oil in it. I refilled it and took it out today. The whine is still there, but seems...

So I drained the transfercase today, and there was very little oil in it. No chunks of metal, but again very little oil. I filled it with Redline 90W gear oil. I'll see tomorrow if that gets rid of the whine. Like I stated, the whine is very soft, and mainly is only audible at speeds over 40...

I will as soon as some of the snow melts, it's a icy disaster out there right now

I have a 1978 FJ 40 with a fairly new (like within the last 15,000 miles) Orion transfer case. It emits a low whine, that builds up as I increase the speed, and then goes down as I slow to a stop. This seems to be a fairly new development, but my 454 big block V8 is so loud, I might only have...