Recent content by Brayden3223

I feel attacked 😂 Nah I appreciate it, is there any other things I should do when the intake manifold is off? And is it just the 2 rear bolts that need to be done from underneath?

I’m hoping it’s something simple, the only vacuum lines I haven’t really looked at, at this point is the ones under the intake manifold because I don’t know how to get it off, few bolts on there are hard to reach

Yeah, I disconnected it from the intake manifold, I know I would have no brake assist when it’s disconnected but I just wanted to confirm that, that wasn’t causing the poor idle, as it seems the 2 issues correlate

I did think that, the only reason I lean away from this is, I disconnected the whole brake vacuum line and blocked it and it didn’t change my idle or how it ran at all

When my engine is cold I have no brakes assist, it’s bloody scary. Feels like it’s almost impossible to get the car to pull up but I don’t believe it’s anything to do with the brake booster, I have a FZJ80 Aussie spec and the same day the brakes stopped working properly the engine also started...

Got it off, just needed a few solid hits with a mallet to loosen it

Gday people, just a quick one, anybody got any solid advice to seperate the actuator for the cdl from the transfer case, got all the bolts off but can’t get it to budge for the life of me

Yeah I’m wondering if it would make a difference for me, apparently it can affect the IAC and my car idles like absolute rubbish

Is this actually needed? Mine was broken off when I bought the car and put a straight barb in it. Should I buy a replacement one or keep the barb in there?

update: just had a 5 hour drive, idle has gotten worse, can see heaps of vibrations under the hood at 2000rpm. if car is cold it wants to stall and it feels like the brakes arent taking any vacuum, seems to be brake fine when warm. lacks a large amount of power, had to go 4low in 1st gear to...

Yeah I’ve sussed out that fuse and it was still good, I replaced it anyway though. I’m gonna source another transmission relay to test and see how that goes

Would this switch stop power running to the actuator?

I have given it a bit of a work out to see if it will unstick but nothing had happened, it also appears those no voltage at the plug feeding the actuator leading me to believe it’s something else

Ah cheers, I was unaware of that. Does anyone know the testing procedure for the Relays? I’ll test those next and if they fail I’ll suss out a new one

Alright I’ve tested at the plug, 0V, so no power is going down there, disconnected neutral switch and the relay will still click with that disconnected. Is that normal? Also would I be now leaning more towards a dud relay than a actuator