Recent content by Benjamin Ebrahim

Used brake master cylinder, 47050-60042 for 2001/2002 LC Booster pump motor went kaput, got lights and buzzers. Good candidate for a rebuilt, but I didn't have the time to send it to Andy Le. Hate to ditch it, $50 plus shipping Located in Baton Rouge, LA

Got any good condition taillights from a 93-97?

Can confirm that the Ultra Power's are branded Sankei 555 on them, albeit in an Ultra Power box.

That's your view port for the engine's flex plate. It should be sealed and reasonably secure but if there is an abundance of oil coming from it, I'd bet your rear main seal is leaking

Try jacking up only one side, keeping all the slack on one end might help it show up better

I went through the same situation, complete with the white-knuckle turns, for me it was steering slop. If you haven't replaced your tie rod ends, I'd suggest starting there. Jack up the front end, and give the tire a shake at 9 and 3. Any excess movement will do you in with VSC, especially with...

With those kind of numbers, even if the head is the only problem, its probably so warped that it can't be salvaged. If you've got the time, pull an i-Force 4.7 for cheap, rebuilt it and swap all the LC parts over. Then you'll probably be in $1-2k, but have a motor that'll last you another 200k...

Yeah, I searched for a donor but no dice, and since it is my DD I went ahead and fixed it. Check the classifieds/parting out sections and see if there's any around you that'd work. If you want to know more about the condition of your engine and have a few banana's under your belt, then do a...

Went through the exact same with my 01, ended up about $1.5k in fixing it (warped heads) and had the truck down almost a month. In hindsight, these engines are normally pretty bulletproof so if you have access to a donor LC/LX engine, I'd just do a swap

Creeping, like snooping. Going around in a 3 ton behemoth of a vehicle where you probably shouldn't. Or on the other hand, not disturbing a place with light to remain relatively hidden

Only place I know to check is your E-brake. If it's engaged, even by just a click, the BRAKE light on your dash will come on and your DRL's will stay off. If not, I'd look into your DRL relay

If there was any sign of smoke/soot on the blades of the fuse, then that's probably your problem. Mine hadn't blown the fuse or anything, just the EFI system decided there was too much resistance on the circuit and shut down. Cleaning those fuse contacts plus a little bit of anti-corrosive spray...

The little red car symbol by the AC controls tells you what the security system classifies your key. There's probably a better explanation on this forum somewhere, but as I remember it, when you put your key in the ignition, if the little security light goes out immediately it's a master. If it...

Check your security light for any problems with anti-theft. The 10 or so amp EFI fuse in the main box has prevented me from firing up before. The resistance seems highly sensitive, so even if the fuse isn't popped, or if you suspect any thing's wrong with it, throw a decent wire jumper in its...

I'd check your freon pressures, same thing happened to my 2001 and a 12-oz can of R134a fixed it