Recent content by anothernz45

Possibly this? Park brake looks like it only has 2 wire plug

Only one of those red wires goes to the master cylinder on mine, there is a shunt from one of the pressure sensors to the other sensor. The other wire is live when you put your foot on the brake pedal. These go to the red brake light on the dash which will then light if your master cylinder...

A bit more on the tight diff mystery - I fitted a new oil seal to the rear diff and torqued up to spec, and found the pinion shaft was tight to turn. Did the same to a 70 a long time ago. The new seal was different, it had a nose seal thing to keep rubbish away from the oil seal lips so I lubed...

I've patched a couple, both holding so far but you need a decent soldering iron. Mine went at the felt pads and also pinholes in the end, my trucks are RHD and all the mud that comes in the door sits against the end of the tank. Rip the crud off back to SHINY metal, if its just a tiny pinhole or...

The 13b fed the breather back into the inlet ducting but that makes a mess of your manifold and the rubber duct - I just fed my breather pipe into my chassis rail, bit of British rustproofing. Wouldn't be too concerned - you'll be in much more trouble if you break a glow plug doing a leakdown...

Last year for the 3 litres - plenty of BJs didn't have EDIC, here's a pic off mud of one, tho it's earlier than yours. Does your one have a separate oil supply for the injector pump? There will be a dipstick on the front of the pump if so and have never seen an edic motor on these.

Is your B the original motor, chassis plate should tell you? Edic was an option and may never have been fitted to your engine tho the loom may have had all the plugs, my trucks all have looms with bonus bits on them. What year and model is your BJ? SJHoskins image above, img4480 shows most of it

If that's all you're after boost the brakes you've already got - your wheel cylinders will have to be good either way. Recon or replace your existing master if it needs it and tap in a remote booster, put it where there's more room like the passenger side, your 66 doesn't have much clutter. My...

Are you starting a Toyota or a Chev? Don't recognise the starter motor

Take your front drums off and look at the contact patches, see which parts of the shoe are doing the braking. Get into the drums with emery paper and brake cleaner and shoes with a wire brush and brake clean - realise you're working with asbestos and take care. The shoe diameter must match the...

Contact RSA, Rubber Seals Australia, they have the correct seal for early windscreens. When I put my 72 back on the road, Finished Bitza thread, I used a post 74 seal and that didn't work, glass tries to fall into the cab. Got in touch with RSA, they saw me right. No seam in the seal this way

Tracked down another chassis for the 69 only 20km from home - thanks Allen. It's much later, guessing 76ish and complete apart from the engine - my grandson reckons he'll help me strip it down to the sandblasting stage. Scored lots of bonus bits - inside light, an inspection lamp on a long...

I think you have an earlier straight B diesel, a 3 litre. It looks like the pump is more basic than the 3b, if there was an edic motor it will have been mounted differently to the 3. Will look at a 2b I have and see if anything is left on it.

Go twin circuit, my single circuit/boosted was done back in the day, BUT if I was doing what you are and space was tight I'd at least consider a remote booster on the front brakes. This is the modern version of my old PBR booster which I think was built under licence to Girling. There are dual...

Are you running the original master or a twin circuit? Misread what you're up to, if you are stitching in part of the firewall I'd run later pedals. I have a remote booster on my 69 but its drum/drum and single circuit - works well, tho.