no pics of the swap yet, camera broke, but here is a pic from a couple months ago:
questions first:
1) how do i get my efi tachometer (sending unit was the distributor) to work with the 3B's flywheel sender?
2) i currently am running the glow plugs off a 25 amp switch w/o any relay. i don't think the switch will like this in the long term. i have both the primary and secondary glow relays from a 12V 60 that i can use but there are more than 4 pins. which relay do i use and what pins? also i'm using new sheathed BOSCH 7V plugs. Are they ok for manual? How long should i have them on for? 15 secs is working great but is that too much for the plugs?
3) Is there a choke on this motor? I don't see anything on the throttle body.
4) The engine misses when starting cold. normal or am not glowing enough? (15 secs)
5) anything else i should know about this motor? ~200,000km runs great, i'm gonna adjust the valves and do the injectors when i have some time. also burns a little oil when started cold for a minute or 2. normal?
background:
always wanted a 4x4 Toyota diesel, a BJ60 actually, but around here they're always rusty and overpriced. 2 years ago I came across an '85 efi 4Runner in good shape for cheap, and I sprung on it. I was actually happy I ended up with the 4Runner- mini trucks make great rockcrawlers, the build up is cheaper than a croozer too.
But i always wanted efficient diesel power... i looked into the factory L series diesels... expensive, rare, timing belt, cracking heads, still pretty gutless... So I started looking at 3Bs they seemed cheaper and more readily available, and I always wanted one in a 60... the idea of a 3B in a mini truck has been debated before, too big, too heavy, too much work. I didn't care. Before I knew it I had a 3B sitting in the shop.
I started just before Christmas and finished (well started driving it again) about 2 weeks ago. Still need to finish the hood and put my winch back on.
How i got'r dun:
i'm forgetting everything at an alarming rate but basically i took a '85 Toyota Landcruiser 3.4L 4cyl diesel (3B, 12volt) and '83 cast iron bellhousing, ('85 bellhousing is aluminum) and hacked the tranny side of it off, milled it down to a total height of 6.285", and welded a .375" plate to the bellhousing. i had predrilled this plate to bolt to my '85s stock w56 tranny prior to welding. I used the W56 bellhousing as a drill jig for accuracey and to save time. I also took this opportunity to clock my entire drivetrain about 10 deg when welding the plate. i used the 3B clutch assembly, the disc is the same 21 spline as my W56 tranny, pilot bearing fit too. I used the 3B clutch fork and bearing, had to weld a nut to that .375" plate on the bellhousing for the fork ball-pivot to go into. for motor mounts i had to shorten one of the arms bolted to the block, so both sides were roughly equal. hacked the old mounts off the frame, made new frame brackets from 3.5x3.5" x .1875" tube. burned them on, finished deleting my rad support so i could fit the rad (stock 4runner for now, have custom 4 row for later), and that was basically it. no wiring except for a manual glow plug system, which is easy enough, and of course all the sending unit plugs were the same....
i guess this makes my truck a bastardized land croozer, model code BN65
questions first:
1) how do i get my efi tachometer (sending unit was the distributor) to work with the 3B's flywheel sender?
2) i currently am running the glow plugs off a 25 amp switch w/o any relay. i don't think the switch will like this in the long term. i have both the primary and secondary glow relays from a 12V 60 that i can use but there are more than 4 pins. which relay do i use and what pins? also i'm using new sheathed BOSCH 7V plugs. Are they ok for manual? How long should i have them on for? 15 secs is working great but is that too much for the plugs?
3) Is there a choke on this motor? I don't see anything on the throttle body.
4) The engine misses when starting cold. normal or am not glowing enough? (15 secs)
5) anything else i should know about this motor? ~200,000km runs great, i'm gonna adjust the valves and do the injectors when i have some time. also burns a little oil when started cold for a minute or 2. normal?
background:
always wanted a 4x4 Toyota diesel, a BJ60 actually, but around here they're always rusty and overpriced. 2 years ago I came across an '85 efi 4Runner in good shape for cheap, and I sprung on it. I was actually happy I ended up with the 4Runner- mini trucks make great rockcrawlers, the build up is cheaper than a croozer too.
But i always wanted efficient diesel power... i looked into the factory L series diesels... expensive, rare, timing belt, cracking heads, still pretty gutless... So I started looking at 3Bs they seemed cheaper and more readily available, and I always wanted one in a 60... the idea of a 3B in a mini truck has been debated before, too big, too heavy, too much work. I didn't care. Before I knew it I had a 3B sitting in the shop.
I started just before Christmas and finished (well started driving it again) about 2 weeks ago. Still need to finish the hood and put my winch back on.
How i got'r dun:
i'm forgetting everything at an alarming rate but basically i took a '85 Toyota Landcruiser 3.4L 4cyl diesel (3B, 12volt) and '83 cast iron bellhousing, ('85 bellhousing is aluminum) and hacked the tranny side of it off, milled it down to a total height of 6.285", and welded a .375" plate to the bellhousing. i had predrilled this plate to bolt to my '85s stock w56 tranny prior to welding. I used the W56 bellhousing as a drill jig for accuracey and to save time. I also took this opportunity to clock my entire drivetrain about 10 deg when welding the plate. i used the 3B clutch assembly, the disc is the same 21 spline as my W56 tranny, pilot bearing fit too. I used the 3B clutch fork and bearing, had to weld a nut to that .375" plate on the bellhousing for the fork ball-pivot to go into. for motor mounts i had to shorten one of the arms bolted to the block, so both sides were roughly equal. hacked the old mounts off the frame, made new frame brackets from 3.5x3.5" x .1875" tube. burned them on, finished deleting my rad support so i could fit the rad (stock 4runner for now, have custom 4 row for later), and that was basically it. no wiring except for a manual glow plug system, which is easy enough, and of course all the sending unit plugs were the same....
i guess this makes my truck a bastardized land croozer, model code BN65
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Hey that's awesome! Been wanting to do this swap for some time, either Runner or minitruck, but i'm not home long enough to do anything about it or get sidetracked with other stuff. Like the "Potato" said, lets see some pics, and then turbo that thing.
so I hope thats not happening.
