I lucked out and foundf a 95 with 130k! runs great! everything works except the axle lockers lights flash, but do not stay lit and do not seem to engage. When I go to 4L, it engages...in low gear, but the center diff light does not come on. Good chance the previous 2 owners never engaged either...any ideas?
95 FJ 80 Lockers wont engage (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter nomorerovers
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Drive around in figure eights for a bit and they'll likely engage.
You need to have the CDL light come on in 4lo before the lockers will engage. I had the same problems with mine, I did the paperclip test on the CDL sensor wire and the locker engaged right away. Still need to pull out that sensor and see if its salvageable.
Wow! if that is the solution I will feel like an idiot, but I guess it makes sense. I have the same scenario, but I haven't tried in 4lo. Is it the CDL engagement, or the 4lo, that allows the diff locks to engage. If it is the CDL, will getting the manual switch that allows the CDL to work in 4hi, also allow the diff locks to work in 4hi when the CDL is activated?
It could be ether one, I believe the 4lo switch tells the CDL ECU to engage the CDL the CDL switch tells the CDL ECU that the CDL is engaged and the CDL ecu disables the ABS and illuminates the CDL light on the dash. Once that has happened the Diff locks can be activated and should engage unless you have other issues.
With mine when I did the paper clip trick with the CDL sensor I got the ABS light and CDL light to illuminate. I then turned the diff locks on and they flashed for a second then solid after. Not sure yet if its only the CDL sensor or both it and the 4lo sensor. I used the hazard switch to test the CDL and i did hear it engage.
I'm in the middle of body work so have not dug far into it yet.
That seems to be it for me. The front engaged right away. The rear didn't, but it is 0* outside. I will try it again when I can drive for a bit and warm up the drive train.
Thanks for this bit of information! It saved me a bunch of trouble shooting time and money. This forum is a great source of information. I guess the owners manual probably describes this too, but I like Mud better!
Thanks for this bit of information! It saved me a bunch of trouble shooting time and money. This forum is a great source of information. I guess the owners manual probably describes this too, but I like Mud better!
- Thread starter
- #8
Engages...I can tell Im in a lower gear, no light...Thanks
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks! What is paperclip test?
nomorerovers: I just pulled my transfer case Hi/Lo switch and cleaned it with QD electronic cleaner, worked the detent ball up and down a bunch and rapped on it a few times with a small hammer and put it back in; my instrument panel CDL light came on for the first time in a couple of years. Very simple, just had to scrounge around to find a 27mm box wrench. Also sprayed the electronics cleaner into the harness connector to clean it up. I had previously tried the driving in figure eights and working the shifter lever without any luck, not saying it won't work.
- Thread starter
- #11
Thank you so much for the help, this forum is great! Not really a mechanic, but capable and have plenty of tools including that wrench. Is this accessed down through the shifter or underneath at the transfer? Also, as far as the figure eight method...Worth a try, but do I drive fig 8s in normal 4h and then try the lockers? Or go to 4L and drive in figure 8? Thanks all!
The way the system is set to work.: unless you have a cdl(center differential lock) switch . You set the brake...safety first! Shift to neutral. Shift the transfer lever to low. This engages the cdl and disables anti lock brakes.( the abs light comes on ) and the cdl light comes on. You then turn the ff/rr knob clockwise ..2 clicks if i recall engaging the front and the rear e lockers. The two red locker icons should flash until one wheel on each axle moves at a different speed than the others. Then the lockers engage.
The purpose of the figure eights is to mesh the gears for the locker by causing the inside wheels to turn at a different speed than the outside wheel( simple physics).
The front is slightly different..UNLOCK BEFORE YOU BACK UP! it is not made be locked in reverse
Unlock both when reversing preferebly unless you need the traction.
Hope all that helps
The purpose of the figure eights is to mesh the gears for the locker by causing the inside wheels to turn at a different speed than the outside wheel( simple physics).
The front is slightly different..UNLOCK BEFORE YOU BACK UP! it is not made be locked in reverse
Unlock both when reversing preferebly unless you need the traction.
Hope all that helps
Got a 97 FJ 80
Turn the Knob to Front and Rear Lock.
Light Flashes..............won't lock.
Did figure 8......slow..............low 4 L....nothing
Check the Plug on the Unit itself shows Power going threw.
So than i Started on the Front and took the Whole Thing of
and apart.................WOW.... LOOKS LIKE IT CAME FROM THE FACTORY YESTERDAY.
Took the Electric Motor off............DON'T DO IT..A PAIN TO PUT BACK ON.
lOOKS GREAT TOO.
SO...... WHAT NEXT?????
Turn the Knob to Front and Rear Lock.
Light Flashes..............won't lock.
Did figure 8......slow..............low 4 L....nothing
Check the Plug on the Unit itself shows Power going threw.
So than i Started on the Front and took the Whole Thing of
and apart.................WOW.... LOOKS LIKE IT CAME FROM THE FACTORY YESTERDAY.
Took the Electric Motor off............DON'T DO IT..A PAIN TO PUT BACK ON.
lOOKS GREAT TOO.
SO...... WHAT NEXT?????
Mark W
Yep, it's true. I just don't care that much.
No need to unlock to back up guys. Yes, the front diff is more likely to be damaged by extreme use going backwards than forwards. but 99.9999999% of the FJ80 users will never subject their rig to the kind of stress for this to be an issue. The rig is "designed' to go backwards as well as forwards.
Something I am seeing overlooked in this thread so far... if the CDL light does not co,me on, it is also possible that the CDL is not locking. The motor that engages it can fail, as well as the power feed to the locker. Check these other issues that have been mentioned first, but if that does not solve it, be prepared to look at the center diff itself
Mark...
Something I am seeing overlooked in this thread so far... if the CDL light does not co,me on, it is also possible that the CDL is not locking. The motor that engages it can fail, as well as the power feed to the locker. Check these other issues that have been mentioned first, but if that does not solve it, be prepared to look at the center diff itself
Mark...
Just my two cents- I tried figure 8's forwards and backwards in 4wd Low and the CDL light did not come on. I decided it would be a future project to fix but then one day I was driving on a trail in low for an extended period of time- going forward, backward tight turns etc. and boom the CDL light came on. I then turned on the lockers and they engaged as well. It was a happy day.
My advice is try some extended off road driving in 4wd low with plenty of variety and hopefully you will have the same luck that i did.
My advice is try some extended off road driving in 4wd low with plenty of variety and hopefully you will have the same luck that i did.
I'm not sure why people are so shy of the two switches that are 90% of the time the problem. The 4Lo and CDL switches on the center diff are easy to access and test. Its a 10min test to narrow down were the problem is. If you find one that is stuck its 5min to pull it out and about 10min to clean it and bench test. If its still not good there is a NAPA sensor (search) that is 1/3rd the cost of OEM and works fine.
When I get my head gasket swap done my first plan is to put the truck in 4lo and tap the sensor (some times works). Then move on and do the same with my CDL sensor. I know both of mine are sticking or bad.
Anyone with there lockers flashing MAKE SURE YOUR CDL IS LOCKED AND THE DASH LIGHT IS ON BEFORE TEARING INTO THE LOCKERS!! No CDL light no diff locks.
When I get my head gasket swap done my first plan is to put the truck in 4lo and tap the sensor (some times works). Then move on and do the same with my CDL sensor. I know both of mine are sticking or bad.
Anyone with there lockers flashing MAKE SURE YOUR CDL IS LOCKED AND THE DASH LIGHT IS ON BEFORE TEARING INTO THE LOCKERS!! No CDL light no diff locks.
Exactly. You just need to remove the cdl sensor and work the plunger thingy on your work bench a bunch of times. Reinstall, and voila, lockers. 15 minute procedure, max.
I have a 97
got the Dial Switch
How do i Check that one.
The Lights are Blinking when turned on.....no locking
got the Dial Switch
How do i Check that one.
The Lights are Blinking when turned on.....no locking
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Took the Dial Switch out today
Put the Meter on...shows
it is working...........but no click Noise......................no Lock
Somebody has an Idea??????
Put the Meter on...shows
it is working...........but no click Noise......................no Lock
Somebody has an Idea??????
Is the CDL and ABS light turning on? You are not just turning the "diff lock" dial are you? You do know there is a sequence you need to follow...right?
If you do not have a CDL and ABS light turning on read the above post were I listed a very simple step by step to narrow down your problem.
If you do not have a CDL and ABS light turning on read the above post were I listed a very simple step by step to narrow down your problem.
