EGR Valve aka Blowtorch

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Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Threads
294
Messages
2,745
Location
Hayward, Ca.
Well, I haven't had a problem with the ol' cruiser in awhile now and everything has been fine and dandy. A month ago while driving on the highway, I noticed a had huge loss of power and a whistling noise coming from the rear of the engine. I pullied over checked where the noise was coming from and I noticed that the vacuum hose coming from the egr valve and connects to the modulator was dissconnected. Connected back and that was that.
While a month later (this past weekend) same noise same loss of power occured while driving. Pullied over and I knew where to look at and what to look for, but this time I noticed that not only was the hose dissconnected, but the modulator was torched too. Well, I knew that at this point from reading past mud thread that the cats were going to be clogged or partially clogged.
So I took the easy (non-ca. friendly) way out and cut off the cats, welded straight pipes in place, and went ahead and replaced the torched modulator and told myself that was the end of this story. Not. Long story short, my egr valve is still torching away. Vacuum hose gets torched and now my damn little plastic cover that covers the rear part of the distributor wires has a nice little burn (the vacuum hose got dissconnected from the bottom of the modulator and was still attached to the egr valve. Vacuum hose was pointed down to the cover and that's why that got torched.
One thing I have noticed is that the egr valve is constantly blowing extremely hot air. What's next? Should I replace the egr valve? Does it sound like my egr valve is bad? Could it be anything else? Any input?
 
Well, I haven't had a problem with the ol' cruiser in awhile now and everything has been fine and dandy. A month ago while driving on the highway, I noticed a had huge loss of power and a whistling noise coming from the rear of the engine. I pullied over checked where the noise was coming from and I noticed that the vacuum hose coming from the egr valve and connects to the modulator was dissconnected. Connected back and that was that.
While a month later (this past weekend) same noise same loss of power occured while driving. Pullied over and I knew where to look at and what to look for, but this time I noticed that not only was the hose dissconnected, but the modulator was torched too. Well, I knew that at this point from reading past mud thread that the cats were going to be clogged or partially clogged.
So I took the easy (non-ca. friendly) way out and cut off the cats, welded straight pipes in place, and went ahead and replaced the torched modulator and told myself that was the end of this story. Not. Long story short, my egr valve is still torching away. Vacuum hose gets torched and now my damn little plastic cover that covers the rear part of the distributor wires has a nice little burn (the vacuum hose got dissconnected from the bottom of the modulator and was still attached to the egr valve. Vacuum hose was pointed down to the cover and that's why that got torched).
One thing I have noticed is that the egr valve is constantly blowing extremely hot air. What's next? Should I replace the egr valve? Does it sound like my egr valve is bad? Could it be anything else? Any input?
 
Double trouble! Sorry for the DUB..
 
search egr bypass, s*** load of info on this
 
Pretty obvious you are not concerned with emissions, I hope you are not driving this on the road with the cats cut off. Have fun registering next time... If it is an emmission-less trail rig, bypassing EGR could take care of it, but may just be masking a larger problem, as it is not normal behavior for your EGR system to melt...
 
Back at it again. Once again I thought I had this egr problem figured out, but I am stumped. I just replaced the modulator and the egr valve itself with brand new oem parts. Well the damn hose from bottom of the modulator that connects to the egr valve still pops off and the egr valve is still extremely hot to the touch. What gives? I thought replacing the egr valve would fix this problem for sure. I am thinking about removing the damn egr system for good if there is no quick fix at the moment. Does anyone know if I can on bolt the egr pipe from the cylinder head side, without removing the intake manifold?
 
Flank, thanks for the input and good thread you started... But I've had it with this egr crap I'm removing it and not looking back... Alls I need to know if I need to remove the intake-upper plenum/upper and lower plenum to get to the two bolts that hold the egr pipe to the cylinder head? I'll dig in tomm. and take pics of job and the little metal block off plate pops and I fab up....
 
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