Can you safely jack up at the center of the axle?

[Sidingman]

I bought a low-end jack that only goes to 13" which isn't high enough to lift the front off the ground if you use the recommended lifting points (each end of the front axle). I figured out by using the OEM bottle jack that I need about 15".

So my question is, could I place the jack in the center of the axle, where it is closer to the ground? The user manual and Chilton each only mention the ends of the axles, so I assume those ARE the safest points, but are they the only points?

I have jack stands that I plan to use once I get it up high enough.

I know that the obvious answer is to get a better jack, but I don't want to sink too much money into a jack that I may not end up using but once or twice a year.

 

[SpillmanCruiser]

also, what is the recommended jack capacity? I've busted two garage sale 2 1/2 ton jacks recently.

 

[Sidingman]

It's either 2 or 2 1/2 ton.

 

[96r50]

Safety tip: Always lock the centre differential first to ensure that the VC doesn't let the truck gracefully roll off the jack/jackstands halfway through a project.

To answer your question: You could put the jack under the front control arms to get some additional height. This has worked for me in the past. However, if you have the stock bottle jack, why not just use it?

 

[Beowulf]

To answer your question... Yes, you can jack up the truck anywhere on the axle. I'm assuming you mean from under the pumpkin since your jack isn't tall enough. You can lift from the pumpkin.

To throw in an unsolicited opinion... You are crazy for using improper lifting equipment on your truck. You need a 2-1/2-ton (minimum) floor jack. You want a quality floor jack that you can control during the descent. I tried 2 of those crappy HF floor jacks and the hydraulic mechanism was pathetic. Don't waste your money on their cheap ones. They might carry a better model for more money... I haven't checked them out in several years. The Craftsman floor jacks at Sears are frequently on sale and a good value. They have one that does a "one-push-lift" where the lifting platform quickly raises to the load with just a single push on the handle. Nice.

You need 6-ton (minimum) jack stands. Get the good ones that have a positive locking mechanism and are built of heavy duty materials (i.e not those thin round tube widow-makers with the triangular base.)

-B-

 

[Doc]

A good floor jack pays for itself very quickly. Especially if you do your own maintenance.

That being said- I used the factory bottle jack until a good one went on sale. Actually- my 'good one' kind of sucks. I'm waiting for a better one to go on sale now.

 

[Beowulf]

So my question is, could I place the jack in the center of the axle, where it is closer to the ground?

You can also use a 4x4 or equivalent as a spacer.

-B-

 

[informationjunky]

Post up in the upstate, someone may let you borrow

 

[Sidingman]

So it sounds like I am safe in using the pumpkin as a jacking point. It also sounds like I'll be returning the jack and stands (3ton, btw) and getting some better jack stands for the time being. I'll be on the lookout for a reasonably priced jack in the mean time.

I have no problem with the bottle jack except for having to assemble and use that awkward 'extention arm' each time. I was willing to pay $25 for a GM jack in order to not have to deal with it anymore.

 

[e9999]

Safety tip: Always lock the centre differential first to ensure that the VC doesn't let the truck gracefully roll off the jack/jackstands halfway through a project.

To answer your question: You could put the jack under the front control arms to get some additional height. This has worked for me in the past. However, if you have the stock bottle jack, why not just use it?

chocks and parking brake might be a safer approach still?

aren't you squishing the bushings if you put the jack under the control arms?



(Beo: I prefer not to use loose spacers on top of a jack. I think that's dangerous.)

 

[Beowulf]

(Beo: I prefer not to use loose spacers on top of a jack. I think that's dangerous.)

It is dangerous Eric and I probably shouldn't have mentioned the spacer.

Certainly, nobody should ever get underneath (even for a short time) any vehicle that is supported only by a jack even if it us a good jack. But sometimes you need to get the truck higher than the jack will lift (mine has a 20" lift) and I will use a 4x4 as a spacer while I ratchet up the jack stands another 4" or so. Again, not a great practice but I try to do it as safely as possible.

I also shove a tyre+wheel underneath the slider on each side if I am working under the truck.

If I was going to skimp on something, it would NOT be the jack stands. I want those to be tall and heavy duty... way more HD than the weight of the truck and plenty tall enough to get the truck high enough to do the job.

-B-

 

[96r50]

chocks and parking brake might be a safer approach still?

aren't you squishing the bushings if you put the jack under the control arms?



(Beo: I prefer not to use loose spacers on top of a jack. I think that's dangerous.)

Probably, but that assumes your parking brake is in good shape and properly adjusted and that you remember the chocks! Locking the CDL (via the switch or shifting to low range) seems like the fastest and safest method.

As for the bushings, I think the forces generated while driving would be a lot higher than those created by lifting with a jack.

All IMHO etc

 

[inkpot]

Howdy! Certainly can lift it from the differential, but it is off center, so it will lift at a tilt. John

 

[PACNW96]

The pumpkin is not the center of the axle so when you jack from this location you will get an uneven lift. Depends if you need both tires off the ground or not. Bottle jacks in general make me nervous and if you intend on a lift or suspension modification in the future I highly recommend investing is a quality jack (especially from a safety standpoint).

I have been using a 2 ton jack that never was quite high enough. I finally decided to buy a good jack and found a great 3.5 ton floor jack from Costco for $89. This thing is worth its weight in gold as I do alot of my own wrenching.

 

[e9999]

Probably, but that assumes your parking brake is in good shape and properly adjusted and that you remember the chocks! Locking the CDL (via the switch or shifting to low range) seems like the fastest and safest method.

As for the bushings, I think the forces generated while driving would be a lot higher than those created by lifting with a jack.

All IMHO etc

I don't know about the CDL bit. Aren't you relying only on the Park pawl to hold the truck then? That doesn't inspire that much confidence for me. And yes you better have a good parking brake, but that seems kinda necessary anyway. If not only for regular driving, at least to pass the safety inspection at events...

I just always put big chocks anytime I lift a vehicle up. And whenever I can, I'll also put something big underneath a solid part just as backup.

I don't like to lift off the diff housing too much. More unstable than the side tubes and could put undue stress on the 3rd member bolts possibly. Done it though.

 

[80t0ylc]

You need 6-ton (minimum) jack stands. Get the good ones that have a positive locking mechanism and are built of heavy duty materials (i.e not those thin round tube widow-makers with the triangular base.)

-B-

Beo, you meant 6000 pounds or 3 tons for the jack stands, right? I can't see why you would need a heavier rating than the whole truck for 1 jackstand. Mine are Craftsman 3 ton and so is my SUV 1 push floor jack.

 

[e9999]

Beo, you meant 6000 pounds or 3 tons for the jack stands, right? I can't see why you would need a heavier rating than the whole truck for 1 jackstand. Mine are Craftsman 3 ton and so is my SUV 1 push floor jack.

this topic as been beaten to death of course, but remember that
- the rating is usually for both jacks together
- the heavier the rating the stronger, taller, and more stable the jackstands are, can't go wrong with that.
- who knows how accurate these ratings are?
I use 12 tons stands.
The peace of mind alone is worth the extra $50...

 

[Devil's Slide Doug]

I don't like to lift off the diff housing too much. More unstable than the side tubes and could put undue stress on the 3rd member bolts possibly. Done it though.

I dont see where it would stress the bolts unless you were lifting from the actual dropout third member rather than the housing.

 

[Beowulf]

Beo, you meant 6000 pounds or 3 tons for the jack stands, right?

No, I mean 6-ton jack stands. As Eric mentions, they are rated for the pair. The biggest issue is that the 3-ton stands will not get the truck high enough for some projects; especially installation of a lift.

If my friends, my son, or I am underneath the truck then is just isn't worth the savings to trust a marginal jack stand. 12-ton would be better and they are not expensive at Harbor Freight and their jack stands are very heavy duty.

-B-

 

[e9999]

I dont see where it would stress the bolts unless you were lifting from the actual dropout third member rather than the housing.

sure in principle. In reality the lower part of the housing is not that wide, the jack saddle may have ears etc...



80, one way to look at it. 3 tons jack stands. 3000 lbs each. Say one of the stands slips or the truck moves and you end up mostly on one stand somehow. An armored 80 is over 6000 lbs. You're right there with a 3000 lbs force on a 3000 lbs stand. Too close for me. But I'm particularly keen on the wider base of the big stands. That extra stability may save the day.