retro-fitting OEM lockers -Wiring Harness (1 Viewer)

[Cruiser804]

Today I retro fit the main floor harness for the installation of OEM lockers. I am not sure if anyone else has done this. I know the 5 wire fix can be done but I wanted to replace the OEM harness. It was suprisingly painless. I still have the rear sill harness to do, that will come later in the week.

I will try and post some pictures.

You need to remove

1.) drivers seat
2.) DS jump set
3.) the center console (you don't need to remove the shifter console but you do need to remove the screws so you can get the storage console out)
4.) Storage console
5.) ALL the plastic interior trim on the DS
6.) DS rear selt belt retractor (bottem bolt, loosen the top)
7.) Jack holder


Once you have all this stuff out it is pretty simple. The carpet is held in place by plastic pieces that fits over the lip of both the front and rear door sill. These come up easily and remain attached to the carpet.

The harness runs down a gulley on the side of the truck and is tucked into a bracket that runs the lenght of the sill. A small section splits off and runs over the hump under the DS seat, behind the front brackets. Under the seat one section splits off for the seat controls. It then continues to the center console and parking brake. I think there are five connectors under the shifter console as well as a gound at the base.

The carpet is pretty lose here and has several openings that make it easy to snake the wire under the carpet.

Back at the gulley, the harness continues to door pillar. Here there are 3 connectors half way up. One very small on, real PITA. I used a very smally flat head screw driver to pry up one side on the chassie side to seperate the ends. I will try and take a picture and post it.

It continues down the gulley into the RD opening. A small 2 connector portion splits off and exits the body. Only one of the 2 connectors in used under truck. This was the most difficult connector to get a part. I used the new harness for reference. There is a an inner shelth that is a slightly different color. You can tell by looking at the new harness that dosen't need to come out.

Then is goes up the door sill and goes into the body behind the seat belt retractor. From here it is wide open. I think there are 4 more connectors, including one more of the little PITA connectors just to the rear of the rear seat belt retractor.

The biggest PITA was the plugs that held the harness to the chassis. I think there are 10 or so. I maybe got 3-4 out without destroying them. They are taped to the harness so you can pull the harness away from them and then get at them with a pair of pliars. New ones come with the new harness.

I set the harness in place, its easy to tell where is is suppose to sit because of the chassis plugs. I connected all the connectors, snaped all the plugs in place and but everything back together.

 

[-Spike-]

Did you buy a new harness, or get one from a salvage yard? Cost?

-Spike

 

[Cruiser804]

I got one from CDan. For the main floor harness and the sill harness it was 402.00 including shipping IIRC.

 

[Clutchee]

Cruiser804 great idea on purchasing a new harness.....when you post a pic can you point out the harness connection in the rear that the spliced 5 wire harness goes to.....I understand where the 5 wires go in the front harness connection but the rear one I'm still confused.

I have retro fitted the elockers & everything but the 5 wire harness & want to make sure I have every bit of knowledge before adding wires into the truck.


Thanks!

 

[Cruiser804]

Sure, I have been wondering if the lockers can be installed without the wiring. I guess it they are unlocked when you add them.

I plan on putting the sill harness in tonight.

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

Originally posted by Clutchee
I have retro fitted the elockers & everything but the 5 wire harness & want to make sure I have every bit of knowledge before adding wires into the truck.

You can add those 5 wires in the left rear quarter panel. If you take the jack and jack mounting bracket, you will see two connectors, one is for ABS (smaller one)and one connector (big one) for the main harness. The big one is where you connect the 5 wire harness and the pins were numbered as 1, 2, 5, 6, and 12 on the male side of the connector (locking tab on top). It is easy to do and just look at the empty slots on the big connector. Let me know if you have questions.

 

[Clutchee]

You can add those 5 wires in the left rear quarter panel. If you take the jack and jack mounting bracket, you will see two connectors, one is for ABS (smaller one)and one connector (big one) for the main harness. The big one is where you connect the 5 wire harness and the pins were numbered as 1, 2, 5, 6, and 12 on the male side of the connector (locking tab on top). It is easy to do and just look at the empty slots on the big connector. Let me know if you have questions.

Thanks!

 

[Cruiser804]

You can add those 5 wires in the left rear quarter panel. If you take the jack and jack mounting bracket, you will see two connectors, one is for ABS (smaller one)and one connector (big one) for the main harness. The big one is where you connect the 5 wire harness and the pins were numbered as 1, 2, 5, 6, and 12 on the male side of the connector (locking tab on top). It is easy to do and just look at the empty slots on the big connector. Let me know if you have questions.

I would think you would buy the small harness that runs from the sill to the locker actuator and ABS and then connect the 5 wire into the sill end. If you connected in the chassis as you suggest how does it get to the actuator? Then none locker sill harness does not have the connector to connect it to the actuator

 

[Cruiser804]

Ok, first let me say I posting this pix was harder than doing this installation.

The fist picture shows the DSFD sill. If you look in the middle of the harness you see where the tube is interruped and only has the eletrical tape, this is where the first section branches off under the seat.

Second picture sucks, I know. This end of the harness has 4 connectors but you only connect 3. D is not used. Also the tube for the washer fluid for the rear runs through here. Make sure you plug this otherwise it will leak washer fluid into the cabin.

The third pix shows the alarm. You can't see it that well but there is a decent size opening that lets you get under the carpet both ways.

 

[Cruiser804]

Ok here is a look into the console. I really need to figure out how to size these picture correctly. Second one shows the connections in the door pillar and the third where one small section goes out under the chassis.

 

[Cruiser804]

Ok here is the rear section. To the rear of the filler neck the harness exits the chassis and joins the rear sill harness. I installed that one today and will add more on the tomorrow or Thursday.

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

Originally posted by Cruiser804
I would think you would buy the small harness that runs from the sill to the locker actuator and ABS and then connect the 5 wire into the sill end. If you connected in the chassis as you suggest how does it get to the actuator? Then none locker sill harness does not have the connector to connect it to the actuator

If you bought a new main floor harness, then you have all the necessary wirings to run the rear locker. All you need now is a 13 inches long 5 wire harness with female pins that need to be installed to the female connector located under the jack mount. This female connector will plug to the connector of your new wiring harness thay you have just installed on your last picture. As far as I know you cannot buy this 13 inches long 5 wire harness since it is a part of a rear main harness located under the rear of the truck. You also need to buy an ABS/rear locker harness ( to the locker actuator) to replace the existing ABS Only harness.

To make it truly an OEM, I'm going to install this 13 inches long 5 wire harness in the connector. The way I'm going to do this is like this, first unplug all connectors and clear plastic tubing inside the rear sill. Then, remove the harness along with the grommet from the rear of the truck. Split open the split looms with exacto knife to reveal all wirings, remove electrical tape from the split looms and harness, then insert one female pin at a time on the empty slots of the connector, once all 5 pins were inserted then tape up and or heat shrink the split loom to bring it back to OEM specs. Once you've done that, install the harness and grommet back to hole of the rear sill, plug the connector to your new harness, the your done on that part. You now need to plug in the ABS/Rear locker harness to the actuator and motor switch at the axle end and the other end of the plug to the rear connector. Then have some Do some testing and final check to make sure everything is working as plan.

 

[AllenTenT]

Cruiser804 , this seems like the perfect tread for my question, I have factory lockers but am trying to source a potential problem in the harnes re indicator switch, do you know upstream from the locker if there is another point I can bridge the indicator wiring to isolate where the problem might be , rear locker works fine but light keeps flashing, paper clip at switch side makes no diffs,,,,tks
Al

 

[Cruiser804]

Cruiser804 , this seems like the perfect tread for my question, I have factory lockers but am trying to source a potential problem in the harnes re indicator switch, do you know upstream from the locker if there is another point I can bridge the indicator wiring to isolate where the problem might be , rear locker works fine but light keeps flashing, paper clip at switch side makes no diffs,,,,tks
Al

There are 4 places where the locker controls are connected from the kick panel on back. Maybe one from there to the dash switch??
1.) main connection behind the kick plate
2.) Under the jack holder. I think its the smaller one. Someone else may know for sure
3.) Under the rear, DS next to the frame there are 2 grey plugs the smaller of the 2 is the Locker connector. The larger is ABS
4.) At the actuator.

I have pictures if you want them. PM me.

 

[Cruiser804]

Cruiser804 , this seems like the perfect tread for my question, I have factory lockers but am trying to source a potential problem in the harnes re indicator switch, do you know upstream from the locker if there is another point I can bridge the indicator wiring to isolate where the problem might be , rear locker works fine but light keeps flashing, paper clip at switch side makes no diffs,,,,tks
Al

If you bought a new main floor harness, then you have all the necessary wirings to run the rear locker. All you need now is a 13 inches long 5 wire harness with female pins that need to be installed to the female connector located under the jack mount. This female connector will plug to the connector of your new wiring harness thay you have just installed on your last picture. As far as I know you cannot buy this 13 inches long 5 wire harness since it is a part of a rear main harness located under the rear of the truck. You also need to buy an ABS/rear locker harness ( to the locker actuator) to replace the existing ABS Only harness.

To make it truly an OEM, I'm going to install this 13 inches long 5 wire harness in the connector. The way I'm going to do this is like this, first unplug all connectors and clear plastic tubing inside the rear sill. Then, remove the harness along with the grommet from the rear of the truck. Split open the split looms with exacto knife to reveal all wirings, remove electrical tape from the split looms and harness, then insert one female pin at a time on the empty slots of the connector, once all 5 pins were inserted then tape up and or heat shrink the split loom to bring it back to OEM specs. Once you've done that, install the harness and grommet back to hole of the rear sill, plug the connector to your new harness, the your done on that part. You now need to plug in the ABS/Rear locker harness to the actuator and motor switch at the axle end and the other end of the plug to the rear connector. Then have some Do some testing and final check to make sure everything is working as plan.

To do mine I bought 4 harnesses from CDan. One for the front, from the FW to the actuator. The main floor harness, the rear sill harness (I think this is the one you are refering to) and the sill to actuator harness. So far I have the main and the sill installed. I am going to wait to do the sill to actuator until I install the carrier. Once I have that complete my unpgrade will be 100% OEM, including correct from axle housing.

The sill harness contains the locker connector that connects to the short frame harnesss. It runs from one side of the truck to the other. It was to install. I think it was 140.00 for CDan. I have a picture but I don't have the room to posted. I think I need to upgrade my membership.

 

[sricruiser]

If you bought a new main floor harness, then you have all the necessary wirings to run the rear locker. All you need now is a 13 inches long 5 wire harness with female pins that need to be installed to the female connector located under the jack mount. This female connector will plug to the connector of your new wiring harness thay you have just installed on your last picture. As far as I know you cannot buy this 13 inches long 5 wire harness since it is a part of a rear main harness located under the rear of the truck. You also need to buy an ABS/rear locker harness ( to the locker actuator) to replace the existing ABS Only harness.

To make it truly an OEM, I'm going to install this 13 inches long 5 wire harness in the connector. The way I'm going to do this is like this, first unplug all connectors and clear plastic tubing inside the rear sill. Then, remove the harness along with the grommet from the rear of the truck. Split open the split looms with exacto knife to reveal all wirings, remove electrical tape from the split looms and harness, then insert one female pin at a time on the empty slots of the connector, once all 5 pins were inserted then tape up and or heat shrink the split loom to bring it back to OEM specs. Once you've done that, install the harness and grommet back to hole of the rear sill, plug the connector to your new harness, the your done on that part. You now need to plug in the ABS/Rear locker harness to the actuator and motor switch at the axle end and the other end of the plug to the rear connector. Then have some Do some testing and final check to make sure everything is working as plan.

Sorry to bring this back up, but I need to get this done before a wheeling trip coming up, and I look like this when I see electrical wires

Here's what I've already done.

- Bought an e locked rear axle - rotor to rotor . Connectors from axle harness to locker motor are present but only two inches of wire is left from those connectors, they were cut., and ABS connectors are present.

- I have bought and installed locker control, ecu, bulbs.

- I have bought an LX450 floor harness but have not installed it.

My 1st question is this. Since I have the connectors for the e locker motor, Am I still going to be able to make my 13 inch long harness?

Looking at the loose connectors, theres the two wire connector (w/lock tab up its 1-yellow, 2 - black and white)

and

The other connector is 5 wires. (lock tab up (1 green, 2 green blue, 3 -X(blank), 4 yellow/green, 5 black/green, 6 black/white

How come you can make a 5 wire connctor if 7 wires are coming out of the elocker motor? Sorry if that's a stupid question.

Which plug in the 3 plug bundle under the jack carrier do these wires connect to? And what type of connector do I need to buy to get it to work?

Thanks in advance.

 

[smcphc]

Sorry to bring this back up, but I need to get this done before a wheeling trip coming up, and I look like this when I see electrical wires

Here's what I've already done.

- Bought an e locked rear axle - rotor to rotor . Connectors from axle harness to locker motor are present but only two inches of wire is left from those connectors, they were cut., and ABS connectors are present.

- I have bought and installed locker control, ecu, bulbs.

- I have bought an LX450 floor harness but have not installed it.

My 1st question is this. Since I have the connectors for the e locker motor, Am I still going to be able to make my 13 inch long harness?

Looking at the loose connectors, theres the two wire connector (w/lock tab up its 1-yellow, 2 - black and white)

and

The other connector is 5 wires. (lock tab up (1 green, 2 green blue, 3 -X(blank), 4 yellow/green, 5 black/green, 6 black/white

How come you can make a 5 wire connctor if 7 wires are coming out of the elocker motor? Sorry if that's a stupid question.

Which plug in the 3 plug bundle under the jack carrier do these wires connect to? And what type of connector do I need to buy to get it to work?

Thanks in advance.

For the 5 pin connector, from what I understand the 2 white/blacks are grounds that can be attached directly to the frame. That's how it's done on my '93 that was retrofitted with lockers.

Scott

 

[sricruiser]

That makes sense, where do the other 5 wires go? into which connector?

 

[smcphc]

That makes sense, where do the other 5 wires go? into which connector?

On mine, the wires from the e-locker are run directly to the 5 pin connector beneath the drivers side kick panel. No connectors in between. I know that might not help in your case, but from what I can tell from this thread, it looks like there should be a 5 pin connector near the jack mount that you plug into.

 

[sricruiser]

pics of connectors

Here' a pic of one of the connectors that the junk yard cut the wires, that plug into the elocker. I couldn't get the other pic to upload.

I'm assuming I need to run these to one of the connectors underneath the jack mount, but what type of connector do I need at the other end of these wires, so that it can plug in to the LX450 harness?