Here's a quick "How I desmogged my '85 FJ60" (1 Viewer)

[chichiflys]

Desmog - 1985 FJ60
- My EGR valve was previously disabled, but I left the EGR gear on the truck because I broke a bolt that conencts the EGR pipe to the exhaust maniflold - so I couldn't physically remove the EGR stuff. It is nonetheless disabled though. If I ever do a manifold job I'll remove the crap I suppose.
- Removed Smog Pump, Air Rail (capped plugs on head with 1/4" NPT caps), and associated ABV, ACV, ASV, VSV(1) & VSV(2). Installed Jim C's idler pulley.
- Installed cooler plugs (temp rating W16EXR-U).
- I kept the HAC system so my gas filter, which used to be 3 ports (one broke), is now only two ports - which is fine since that is all I'll need.
- I ran a vac line directly from the advacner port on the carb base trough the VTV to the main diaphram of the dissy.
- The rest of the vac lines are connected via Jim's desmog diagram avail here on mud. This diagram doe snot include the HAC system so I hooked it up per the Toyota Emissions manual (at least I think I hooked it up correctly)
- I had Jim C rebuild my carb and dissy. He also said he recurved the dissy since I was desmogging the truck. I set the timing to 7 degrees.
- Runs great, idles very smooth. Little more peepy, but that's probably from the carb rebuild. I still get knocking at 1900-ish RPM under a medium load though. I had this before the desmog and rebuilt carb/dissy. So I'm troubleshooting that, still.
Some pics:

 

[CruisinFJ60]

a desmog makes a truck look so much cleaner.

 

[FJ40Jim]

There's a slight glitch in one vac hose. The AC idle up is connected to the emmission spaghetti pipe. Try connecting AC to the AC vac solenoid.

For the spark knock, try swapping the vac hoses on the advance can. That will reduce the vac advance from 18* to 7*.

Just outta curiosity, is there an electric fuel pump right beside the mechanical pump? Which one is in use & why?

 

[cfdlighthouse]

looks great,much cleaner
by the way, what kind of vacum hose is that and where can you get it? I am getting ready to start on my engine stuff and have to replace alot of line.
Thanks

 

[chichiflys]

There's a slight glitch in one vac hose. The AC idle up is connected to the emmission spaghetti pipe. Try connecting AC to the AC vac solenoid.

For the spark knock, try swapping the vac hoses on the advance can. That will reduce the vac advance from 18* to 7*.

Just outta curiosity, is there an electric fuel pump right beside the mechanical pump? Which one is in use & why?

Thanks Jim. I switched the hoses on the dissy and it fixed the knock at 1900RPM. So I'm gonna run a good check on the HAC valve to make sure it passes the tests in the emissions manual.

Oh and thanks on the A/C idle up hose - I missed that one!

Yes I installed an electric pump because my last carb had a leak and all the fuel would empty out of the bowl So I figured I would install a pump to fill it up so I wouldn't have to crank the engine for so long to get fuel back into the carb bowl...don't need it now with the rebuilt carb.

Thanks again for all the help Jim - the motor really runs nice now.

 

[chichiflys]

looks great,much cleaner
by the way, what kind of vacum hose is that and where can you get it? I am getting ready to start on my engine stuff and have to replace alot of line.
Thanks

Thanks man.

I bought the hose from - http://www.mcmaster.com/.

Here's the info on the hose:
Stock # - 5041K522 METRIC HIGH-TEMP SILICONE RUBBER TUBING, FIRM, 3 MM ID, 8 MM OD, 2.5 MM WALL, BLUE

I think you could get away with 1/8" hose for a good bit cheaper. It's stock # is - 51135K15

Cheers,
Marc

 

[hank14]

Looks great. I'm envious. I'm working through my smog stuff right now, and it is tedious.

Did you remove the "green" VCV (vacuum control valve) on the choke breaker, that goes from the front of the carb to the choke breaker (behind the A/C idle up)?

 

[chichiflys]

Looks great. I'm envious. I'm working through my smog stuff right now, and it is tedious.

Did you remove the "green" VCV (vacuum control valve) on the choke breaker, that goes from the front of the carb to the choke breaker (behind the A/C idle up)?

Yes I did. Actaully Jim C did - when I got the carb back from him there was just a vac hose going directly from the CB to the middle port on the carb throat. Same setup just minus the green VCV...Hope that helps.

Marc

 

[cfdlighthouse]

Thanks man.

I bought the hose from - http://www.mcmaster.com/.

Here's the info on the hose:
Stock # - 5041K522 METRIC HIGH-TEMP SILICONE RUBBER TUBING, FIRM, 3 MM ID, 8 MM OD, 2.5 MM WALL, BLUE

I think you could get away with 1/8" hose for a good bit cheaper. It's stock # is - 51135K15

Cheers,
Marc

Thanks i will look them up

 

[sk8salomon]

is that a different brake master cyl assy?

 

[D'Animal]

Looks clean.

What brake master fluid tank is that?

 

[hank14]

Yes I did. Actaully Jim C did - when I got the carb back from him there was just a vac hose going directly from the CB to the middle port on the carb throat. Same setup just minus the green VCV...Hope that helps.

Marc

Thanks.

I was just wondering because my VCV is clogged up or something. Air flows freely towards the black side but not at all to the green side, so the choke breaker is not working at all. I was going to order a new one. I suppose if you run without it, the choke breaker will kick on and off when the vacuum goes up or down.

 

[FJ40Jim]

I was just wondering because my VCV is clogged up or something. Air flows freely towards the black side but not at all to the green side, so the choke breaker is not working at all. I was going to order a new one.

That is normal operation.

To make the CB work a little better, turn the VCV around. That way, the CB will do it's job, instantly breaking the choke open on engine startup, and the VCV will keep the CB from letting off during a momentary WOT burst.

Neato, huh?

I suppose if you run without it, the choke breaker will kick on and off when the vacuum goes up or down.

At very low vac levels, the CB may let off.
But it doesn't matter because within 1-2 minutes of startup the choke will be manually turned down to the point where it is not effected by the CB.

 

[chichiflys]

That is normal operation.

To make the CB work a little better, turn the VCV around. That way, the CB will do it's job, instantly breaking the choke open on engine startup, and the VCV will keep the CB from letting off during a momentary WOT burst.

Hey Jim, always one more question. I have a VCV from my old carb. Do you recommend I install it (backwards)? I did notice a quick hesitation on WOT while driving down the road. Is that because there is no VCV installed?

Marc

 

[chichiflys]

is that a different brake master cyl assy?

Yes - I did a 4-runner conversion on the front brakes and installed a 4-runner master cyl. It was just about brand new when I got it from a wrecker....

The truck stops a little better now. I tow our little pop-up trailer so I thought the extra braking ability would be a benefit.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Hey Jim, always one more question. I have a VCV from my old carb. Do you recommend I install it (backwards)?

No, not necessary.

I did notice a quick hesitation on WOT while driving down the road. Is that because there is no VCV installed?

No, that is a slight tip-in sag as the vac secondary opens.

 

[hank14]

That is normal operation.

To make the CB work a little better, turn the VCV around. That way, the CB will do it's job, instantly breaking the choke open on engine startup, and the VCV will keep the CB from letting off during a momentary WOT burst.

Neato, huh?


At very low vac levels, the CB may let off.
But it doesn't matter because within 1-2 minutes of startup the choke will be manually turned down to the point where it is not effected by the CB.

Thanks for the help, Jim. I'm half way tempted to drive this 60 to Ohio and pay you a visit.

I have the emissions manuals and have a hard time figuring out which way the VCVs are supposed to go. Are you saying it is supposed to be the opposite of how the manual shows it (with the green side away from the vacuum source and towards the choke breaker?

It would also help if I knew how to interpret all those diagrams in the FSM- I've been studying them for 6 months and they're still Greek to me.

 

[FJ40Jim]

It's supposed to be how the manual shows...

But it works better if it's turned around.