Couple questions. Obviously they don't use the same P/N gasket as the single sheet of glass does, so do you remember what you used? Was it still a single piece gasket or did you have to use something else with a sealant? I'm working on getting mine cleaned up and if Cdan is able to get the parts I need (vertical piece between the glass panes, gasket or whatever part is needed for installation, and the felt channels), getting 'em installed before Halloween.
So is there some sort of rubber seal piece that goes in in lieu of a gasket? Looking at the metal frame on mine, there's just the rubber wedge spacer pieces around the outside, but there is what looks like remnants of a rubber piece that looks like it may have formed a lip to wrap around the trim panel edges inside the cargo area like the 1-piece window gasket does.
Anyone got a couple close-up pics of the edges of the installed assembly so I can get a visual of what I'm missing?
Dan, the best install I've seen was on wagoneer5's truck. He used buytel tape on the edge of the body seam then pressed his window on. It leaves a gap around the outside edge of the window frame for water to flow out. I used the polyurathane window goop that you can buy at the body shop supply store. Heat it up with a heat gun a little bit and it squezes pretty easy. I filled in that gap all the way around the edge of the window and tried my best to smooth out the urathane glue to make it smooth before it dried. It looks like crap up close, but from 15' it looks fine and it doesn't leak.
If I was going to do it again I'd get some beutle tape from the body shop supply store and stick them in with that.
Dan, the best install I've seen was on wagoneer5's truck. He used buytel tape on the edge of the body seam then pressed his window on. It leaves a gap around the outside edge of the window frame for water to flow out. I used the polyurathane window goop that you can buy at the body shop supply store. Heat it up with a heat gun a little bit and it squezes pretty easy. I filled in that gap all the way around the edge of the window and tried my best to smooth out the urathane glue to make it smooth before it dried. It looks like crap up close, but from 15' it looks fine and it doesn't leak.
If I was going to do it again I'd get some beutle tape from the body shop supply store and stick them in with that.
Yeah if you can post a pic that'd be great. I'm waiting to hear back from Cdan if he can get the felt and a couple other misc. parts for the windows, then I'll order what I can from him. Looking at this diagram on SOR:
It looks like there is a piece (843) that fits into the body that the metal frame (SOR calls it a sash, but it's $600 bucks new, so I figure that's the frame) is set into. Looking at the pic, I think I answered my own question from earlier. There are also a couple rubber pieces (847 and 844) that I need to replace if Dan can get 'em. Maybe once my phone's charged up I'll give him a ring and see how much luck he has. The tinting is coming off beautifully (using a straight razor and glass cleaner to lubricate it, and it's working great) and I think I can get these things looking and funcioning like brand new in just a matter of a few days.
See if the info in this thread helps. I can get a picture tonight or tomorrow if not. I posted the link in that thread of the felt I used. I took the window apart and put the new felt in. I also only used 3 of the little rubber things (842) on the outside of the frame.
I'm working on restoring mine and cleaning them up as best I can before installation. Once I can get the few parts I need to get them in like-new condition, they'll be going in. I'm not sure if I want to use butyl tape or windshield glue to secure them to the body though. I probably won't figure that out until I have them ready to install and can see what I'm working with then I pull the old windows out.
I installed mine as the factory did with urethane/butyl rubber tape as Greg mentioned. Lay a 1/4 bead along the edge of the window frame, set the window in and use pinch molding to finish out and help hold in the window. I bought new pinch molding from Toyota for the rear doors and had plenty of color matched molding to do both windows. The factory window has a metal lip that perfectly aligns with the spot welded window opening. The pinch molding goes over both pieces and pulls the window tight into the opening. I don't have any pics right now but I promise it looks factory and drains water like factory.
G
I installed mine as the factory did with urethane/butyl rubber tape as Greg mentioned. Lay a 1/4 bead along the edge of the window frame, set the window in and use pinch molding to finish out and help hold in the window. I bought new pinch molding from Toyota for the rear doors and had plenty of color matched molding to do both windows. The factory window has a metal lip that perfectly aligns with the spot welded window opening. The pinch molding goes over both pieces and pulls the window tight into the opening. I don't have any pics right now but I promise it looks factory and drains water like factory.
G
Pinch molding? Is that what goes around the entire door frame to cover the metal edges? Sounds like a good idea, but if it goes on the inside, isn't there still a gap showing around the window's frame when you look at it from outside of the truck?
Spook et al -
My professional opinion is use butyl tape. It comes in round & flat, only problem is to find out what type/size. It sticks & seals like crazy. It's just not legal for windshields any more (originally used on 70s US cars & trucks).
I used butyl tape in one, and to this day I'm seeing its effect. My 6 year old, now 8 yo likes to pick it (it doesn't harden) and tease his sisters with it, flinging little balls of it. On the other side, I used urethane (also from the glass shop) and it was soo much easier and less mess to clean up. But I wanted to do it like the FSM said to do it, so I did. Neither side leaks, side with tape bulges out from window recess about 1/8" more than side with urethane bead. Nothing really keeps the window from "falling", besides the welting, that is the same stuff as that found in the door perimeter.
Crawl -
Both the butyl & the urethane are preventing the windows from falling out, not just the welting. The bulging on the butyl side is from improper size and/or placement of the butyl.
Give me your address & I'll send your 8yo a ROLL of butyl!
Hey Spook, let us know on parts availability. I still need to clean my windows up and redo the felt and all that. Sooner or later, hopefully sooner, I'll get my rig down to Tinker for the install.
I hate to break the news to you guys, but you will only be able to get two parts here in the states. One is 62746-90K00 which is called a Packing (a piece of small open cell foam) and 62229-95J00 which is called a side window packing (a small 10mm square piece of rubber). C-Dan may try to do an "off line order" but he will not have any luck (heck I work for Toyota and I ran into so much red tape internally it was faster to use other sources).
The runs (which the window slide in)$ 90.00 each and the inner clip (trim molding, brown only, grey is disc) $100.00 each and the quarter window center weatherstrip $6.00 each are still available through Toyota. But not in North America. I have a OE source down under that can get the parts. They are not cheap, but they are correct OE parts. I have an order in now, if someone wants parts they should let me know asap.
I hate to break the news to you guys, but you will only be able to get two parts here in the states. One is 62746-90K00 which is called a Packing (a piece of small open cell foam) and 62229-95J00 which is called a side window packing (a small 10mm square piece of rubber). C-Dan may try to do an "off line order" but he will not have any luck (heck I work for Toyota and I ran into so much red tape internally it was faster to use other sources).
The runs (which the window slide in)$ 90.00 each and the inner clip (trim molding, brown only, grey is disc) $100.00 each and the quarter window center weatherstrip $6.00 each are still available through Toyota. But not in North America. I have a OE source down under that can get the parts. They are not cheap, but they are correct OE parts. I have an order in now, if someone wants parts they should let me know asap.
Yeah I heard back from Dan yesterday and he said he wouldn't be able to get any of the parts, since they're not normally imported to the US. I looked on SOR, and they do have most of the parts for the windows (I think what people are mostly going to need are new dual channel felt for the glass, new felt for the vertical strips, a new upper seal (the one that runs along the top and comes down just a bit over the corners) and the inner clip (I assume that's just like the pinch molding, but correct me if I'm wrong), which it appears SOR sells in some neutral color since it doesn't specify either color. Your prices are better than what SOR offers them for, but do you have an idea of how much of a markup there would be after shipping? It'd be great to do up a group order of the most commonly needed/wanted parts in ohpes of saving some shipping/freight money.
