Drawer system questions

[KIRUXA]

Kiruxa's Drawer System DYI

Hey guys,


So I'm starting to build my drawer system. Plywood all around with 2 drawers side by side, flaps in the sides and additional piece to cover the rear seats when folded. Nothing anyone hasn't done before.

1. Do I need to remove the 6 brackets that would hold the 3rd row of seats to allow for more flat contact of plywood with the floor?

2. Do I keep the carpet?

Thanks

 

[TrekboxX]

Hey. Not only did I remove the brackets, but I cut my existing rubber mat to make space for some high spots that still exist afterwards. I think it starts on page 5 of my build. Check out my sig. I don't think you need to, but I am a bit OCD. And yes, I left the carpet in. Adds a bit of spacer, cushion, and sound barrier. Have fun!

 

[AimCOtaco]

I'm in the same boat right now.
Getting started this weekend.
I'm currently planning to leave them in and use them as attachment points and if I need to I'll attach some spacer material to the bottom of the drawer set to prevent rocking.
Those points are pretty solid and give the option of removing the drawers and throwing the 3rd row back in if I ever need to without as much work.

 

[KIRUXA]

I wonder if adding 3 or 4 rails 3/4" by 2" or so out of plywood to the bottom floor of the drawer system would lift the whole assembly over those brackets but still have enough support.

 

[TrekboxX]

I wonder if adding 3 or 4 rails 3/4" by 2" or so out of plywood to the bottom floor of the drawer system would lift the whole assembly over those brackets but still have enough support.

I think that would work just fine. The only reason I chopped up my rubber mat was because I thought it would add even more sound deadening, and it was already cut. It protects the small amount of carpet under the side hatches.

 

[TXLX100]

Post up some pictures of your build if you can. I personally would keep the seat mounts installed, especially if you plan on taking the system out temporarily. If the system is going to be a permenant install, maybe taking the mounts out is better.

A question if you don't mind, I am going to build a set this summer based loosely on 1407's drawers. The drawers are going to be roughly 40" long. I have been pricing some of the hardware and it seems like there is a significant price increase from a 28" slide to a 36" slide. So is it possible to use a 28" drawer slide on a 40" drawer? Presumably the drawer will have a portion that will not come all the way out of the cabinent when extended with the shorter slide.

I don't need this setup to be super heavy duty, but also I don't want to waste time and money using hardware that simply will not work well. Advice / opinions are much appreciated.

 

[petrotk40]

mine don't have a solid plywood bottom, just 3 strips front back and middle

 

[KIRUXA]

I decided to put 3 strips for the bottom with u-bolts mounting to the stock 3rd row seats brackets. The drawers will be somewhat permanent but it will save me at least 30 min of time to remove in case I do want to use the 3rd row seats again.
I will attempt this tomorrow and will post pictures of my progress on the whole build.

 

[aussie75series]

I have nearly finished mine,I used a full ply floor with the seat mounts cut out which saved weight and protects the carpet.The other reason for ply floor is ,I have a fridge slide and one drawer,both are removable so I can have one,both or none.I used the tie down points and the 3 child seat bolts.

 

[KIRUXA]

Also,


I bought birch plywood which was more expensive....I assumed it is better than MDF

 

[TrekboxX]

Also,


I bought birch plywood which was more expensive....I assumed it is better than MDF

Yes- Don't use MDF! It has it's place, but definitely not in a drawer system. And you should know that Baltic Birch (what I used) is much better than "birch plywood", which is just regular ply with birch skins. It's expensive, though. I paid $56 per 5x5 sheet. I bought 4.

For me, taking the system in and out was not necessary- I'm too lazy.

28" slides would work as long as you are ok with the last 12" not exposed. Just make sure you use high quality heavy slides. They can make or break a sysem, imo. Rattles, sagging, pinched (or severed!) fingers, etc. Do it once, and do it right.

 

[KIRUXA]

Yes I bought accuride 36" heavy duty sliders....pretty penny but like you said do it once and right.

 

[bamabrock]

Anyone have plans or measurements for their system they'd like to share? I'm getting ideas to build my own over the next month,

 

[GorditoPro]

Im following 1407's build. Getting rid of my 10 inch sub box and incorporating it behind the frig.

 

[bamabrock]

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/62560-quot-Better-Built-quot-Drawers

I found a fj guy who build a platform on top of the better built box. I might copy that setup to do something on a budget.

 

[ntsaint]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/513379-another-home-brew-drawer-system-build.html

Cheap and over a year old, still rock solid.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD, and hopefully approved by the NSA.

 

[Larco1001]

Very nice!,,

 

[DJWUZJ]

Deleted. Forgot sig.

 

[DJWUZJ]

I didn't get into anything crazy for mounting. Currently supports fridge slide out and lots of goodies, held in by single turnbuckle. If you build it right, they will stay put. recent Build is in my signature.

 

[paflytyer]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/513379-another-home-brew-drawer-system-build.html

Cheap and over a year old, still rock solid.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD, and hopefully approved by the NSA.

I've always liked your setup. Not over the top, just smart use of space and $$. Awesome.