Cleanest way to mount windshield brush wires from front guard to roof rack (1 Viewer)

[slickrock]

I have to drive miles through thick growth everyday for two months in the summer and the branches and bushes sound like a pissed off Freddie Crouger is attacking my windshield the entire time so I thought I'd give running a thin cable between each side of my front brush guard and roof rack a try.

What's the best way to do this? I figured I'd put an eye bolt on each side of the roof rack, but not sure what I'm going to do with the brush guard. Weld on a tab or drill for eye bolts? What have you guys found works the best?

How about tensioning the wire? Don't remember what they are called...they have two eye bolts on each end with one reverse threaded so when it is cranked on it tightens down. Is this the best to use to make the wire tight or is there a simpler and cleaner to use way to do it?

I was able to modify a 5x7 con Ferr rack to fit my FJC (not my 40) and figured these wires may save some paint removal around my windsheild and some scratches on the glass.

 

[slickrock]

Here's an idea of how thick the bush is...bad for paint

 

[ikeedikeed]

I can take some more pics of mine this evening. They're not mounted now, but the pics will show you what parts I used. I didn't bother welding anything. I used P-clamps (some people call them hose clamps) on both the roof rack and bull bar ends. The tightening things you're talking about are called turnbuckles. I got some of those and the rest of the parts for about $30 and made them up in about an hour.

This is the only pic that I have on my phone right now.

 

[slickrock]

I didn't think about hose clamps. Something to consider. Can't tell on my iPhone... Did you put the turnbuckles at the top or on the brush guard?

 

[yohavos]

I didn't think about hose clamps. Something to consider. Can't tell on my iPhone... Did you put the turnbuckles at the top or on the brush guard?

They're on the top, that's how most of the limb risers I've seen have been made.

 

[AdventureToolCompany]

Here's another option-

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/546887-britklrs-mini-project-limb-risers-brush-cables.html

Good luck

 

[justbecause]

we need more pictures, I just got a new rack and this is my next planned addition.

 

[ikeedikeed]

Here are some close-ups of mine unmounted. I got all parts except the P-clamps at Home Depot and the P-clamps from a local industrial supply shop. FWIW the ones in britklr's thread are for sure "cleaner" but mine I'm sure are cheaper.

The end with the turnbuckle attaches to the top rail of my ARB rack and the other end on a 2" diameter crappy aluminum bumper from Japan.

 

[ikeedikeed]

As you can see, nothing I got was stainless steel so they won't last forever and aren't real purdy.

 

[slickrock]

Thanks for the info guys. What's the thinnest cable I can use that will still be functional?

 

[ikeedikeed]

Thanks for the info guys. What's the thinnest cable I can use that will still be functional?

I don't have an answer for that. On my setup at least, I'm sure the weakest point is the eyelets in the aluminum of the P-clamps. Those bolts would break out of the P-clamps long before my cable would snap.

GL.

 

[george_tlc]

This is my version, little more durable than wire

 

[shermantank55]

Brush wires

Dingo's sporting some wires: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/456614-introducing-fzj-80-dingo-5.html Post #89
I used 1/8" cable.

 

[slickrock]

I wasn't so sure about the P hooks or P clamps but they look good on that 60. I'll go with those on the guard and eye bolts on the rack. Saved me some experimenting. Thanks guys. I'll post when I make it before my trip on the 3rd

 

[slickrock]

Got it done last night. Lowes didn't have large enough P clamps so I used two eye bolts on the brush guard and picked up some rubber caps to plug the holes (they should sit almost flush and not bee too noticeable) when I don't need the bush wires, which is 95% of the time. I can also swap the wires between this rig and my 40 so they will get double the use. The body lines on the FJC are weird. The roof is about a foot and a half narrower than the front clip. My rack sticks out about half a foot from the roof, but it's narrower than the front fenders. I would have liked to wires to be on the outside of the body but then they would have had to be angled in and it didn't look good.

Thanks for the suggestions. It saved me some experimentation.

 

[slickrock]

Another pic. The mud app won't let me post more than one at a time.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

I saw a 100series at GSMTR that had an interesting setup. They included a couple of springs inline the cables to help absorb some shock load. They looked similar to how the cables are used in shoulder railings on the side of the highway.

mount, turnbuckle, wire, spring, wire, mount

 

[marius]

I saw a 100series at GSMTR that had an interesting setup. They included a couple of springs inline the cables to help absorb some shock load. They looked similar to how the cables are used in shoulder railings on the side of the highway.

mount, turnbuckle, wire, spring, wire, mount

Think it was mine,springs from TSC use for electrale fences

 

[Devilmans Hand]

that is the one. Good idea

 

[justbecause]

Are the wires set wider than the hood so that the hood doesn't contact them when open, or are they pushed aside by the hood when you open it?

posted with my thumbs.