Window Vapor Barrier (1 Viewer)

[cruiserpilot1]

I have done some work on the rear windows to get them to work a little better when its wet or cold out. The good news is that they work like new but the bad is that I now am getting some moisture coming through the vapor barrier where I cut through them. I sealed them with water proof tape but it looks like I need to redo them. I am getting ready to work on the right front window motor and was wondering if someone knows a good way to peel the vapor barrier back without damaging it? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[charleston]

I ulled the vapor barrier back from the black sticky tar like stuff that holds it then just stuck it back down when I was threw fixing the locks.

what did you do to the windows to get them to work correctly?

 

[cruiserpilot1]

I tried to pull it back but it would only rip. It was about 35 degrees so it may work better on a warmer day. Do you think warming it up with a hair dryer will help loosen it? I replaced all the window runs. This made a huge differnce. I heard of people spraying silicone into the old runs but when I did that it seemed to only push more dirt down into the lower section of the run and actually made the problem worse when the window was all the way down. I also relubed the the channel that the regulator arm wheel runs through.

 

[Shiftie]

Warming it will help. Another trick is to use a razor blade and cut the black sealant as you peel the plastic away. When your done heat the black goop up and stick the vapor barrier back on.

 

[slamd58]

You can also get new vapor barriers from C-Dan for $7.00 to $12.00, I got the new vapor barrier then just reused the black sticky stuff.

 

[voorland80]

moisture barrier

Warming it will help. Another trick is to use a razor blade and cut the black sealant as you peel the plastic away. When your done heat the black goop up and stick the vapor barrier back on.

That's what I used. If you are able to do it outside in the sunshine (cali here) it comes off easy with the use of a razor blade. I tried a hair dryer thinking it would come off easier and faster but found it was too much heat and it started to distort and curl. So I just went with the sun and the blade. Piece of cake. If it's warm outside, it will restick fairly easily.

 

[charleston]

Definately warm it up, I was living in Hawaii when I did mine and it was all gooey and pulled off with no problems. You could use a space heater to warm it up for a few minutes before and after to reattach it.

 

[cruiserpilot1]

Thanks guys. It was in the low sixtys today and it peeled back fine. Thats all it took, just a little warmth.

 

[COYS]

If I am to replace the original vapor barrier with new OEM of the same, what are the exact steps to replicate the factory seal all around the door frame? Just trying to understand how to reinstall the right way. Many thanks.

 

[cc93cruiser]

Fwiw, i just replaced my vapor barriers with a 5 dollar clear shower curtain from Amazon... Just cut to shape of doors and used some dum dum i had lying around to stick on doors....

 

[MrMikeyG]

Is the vapor barrier a fancier material than it looks like? Get some 6 mil plastic from the hardware store and go nuts.
* I did just stumble upon flame retardant plastic sheeting during a google search, hmmm?

 

[MoJ]

Is the vapor barrier a fancier material than it looks like?

It has molded pockets to accommodate the door components. Plain sheeting “works” but if you want to do it right...

 

[MrMikeyG]

@MoJ , Good to know, mine are in fairly beat up and deformed shape, so it's hard to tell visually if there was anything "special" about them. I doubt the dollar amounts for OEM from the above post still hold up. Is anyone stocking these currently? ** Ooh, it looks like @Delta VS has them.
Time to start throwing money arounds for the 2020 rehab/refresh plan.

 

[Delta VS]

If I am to replace the original vapor barrier with new OEM of the same, what are the exact steps to replicate the factory seal all around the door frame? Just trying to understand how to reinstall the right way. Many thanks.

Just get some "butyl tape" from the part store, like 1/8" or 1/4". That will do the trick. It usually comes in what looks like a giant roll of licorice. Make sure you fix all the locks/window runs/speaker wires/clean out the drains/put at least some cheap sound deadener in before putting the plastic back on.

Edit: also, a piece of tan packing tape type stuff was on it from the factory across the top to make sure water didn't sit on the butyl tape (at least that's the current guess, maybe smarter folks can comment on that).

 

[Dave 2000]

The black adhesive on mine has hardened up, so I cut a bin liner to shape leaving plenty of excess, then went around it with tank tape, made holes in the tape for the push in clips. I did it the first time in 2010 when I fitted the alarm, and it held up pretty well, just had to rip it out as the window got jammed at the bottom of the runner. Made a repair in the same way.

Seeing how cheap you can get them, if you have the time then order them in time for your next repair.

regards

Dave

 

[COYS]

Just get some "butyl tape" from the part store, like 1/8" or 1/4". That will do the trick. It usually comes in what looks like a giant roll of licorice. Make sure you fix all the locks/window runs/speaker wires/clean out the drains/put at least some cheap sound deadener in before putting the plastic back on.

Edit: also, a piece of tan packing tape type stuff was on it from the factory across the top to make sure water didn't sit on the butyl tape (at least that's the current guess, maybe smarter folks can comment on that).

Yup. I ordered the 3m 1-4” brand of tape. I noticed the packaging tape up top as well.

Thanks!

 

[6894kevin]

I guess I need to do something with mine. I dont think I have any barrier on any of the doors...