Winch cable question

Discussion in 'Winching and Recovery' started by Blue60, Feb 12, 2009.

  1. Blue60

    Blue60

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    Using a 4K ATV winch for general utility work. I would like to shorten the cable from 50' to around 25' The cable is 1/4" multi-strand wire.

    Q1. Cut with a cold chisel or grinder and cutting wheel?

    Q2. Cable clamp around thimble for my hook, or try to swedge as original? Pros or cons either way?

    Thank...all ideas and input solicited and appreciated!

    Cheers,

    Dave
     
  2. Niner

    Niner

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    tape the cut spot then use a chop saw.

    Lace it like originally done from the factory, its strong that way.
     
  3. Blue60

    Blue60

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    Thanks for the reply "niner"

    I plan on taping and cutting with a cutoff blade, might have to read up on how to lace cable. Something I had not considered...

    Dave
     
  4. e9999

    e9999 You want to do what...? Moderator

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    I cut mine with a metal cutoff wheel. Like butta.... I do wrap the rope with string or thin wire on the good side before cutting though, so it does not unravel. A piece of heat shrink tubing on top afterward will make it look even better and be safer.
     
  5. bigndn

    bigndn

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    I usually wrap the cable for about 1-2" and then cut it with a cutoff wheel on my 4" grinder. Then I use 2-3 wire rope clips to secure the tag end. Works like a champ. I've used the aluminum swedges with the bolt cutter look crimpers, but not very successfully. The tag end of the rope always pulls out. If I have to have a good swedge put on, I have it done at the rigging shop with a 65 or 120T press. The cable breaks before the swedge fails. :cool:
     
  6. ntsqd

    ntsqd technerd

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    I've just cut them with a torch. You're not interested in maintaining the metal properties clear to the very end of the rope, so the burn won't hurt things. While I'm there I fuse the ends together with the torch so that the rope doesn't fray.

    Maybe that's wrong, but it's worked for me for 20+ years and for my granddad for 60 years beyond that.
     
  7. roalco

    roalco

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    To do a swaged eye splice you have to so what is called a flemish eye, then the tails are just held next to the standing line by the swaged collar, that is what the shop will do. It is not just a straight eye held by the swage collar.
    If you use wire rope clips (buldog or crosby type), make sure that they are on the correct way, that is the saddle on the standing line and the u-bolt over the bitter end. otherwise you will crush and damage the strength bearing member.
     
  8. ntsqd

    ntsqd technerd

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    That looks like a great splice and what I'd prefer with no thimble, but the Warn winch cables that I've seen are done just like there was a thimble - only without the thimble.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. jasonmt

    jasonmt

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    If it is a Warn winch or it attaches to the drum like a Warn ATV winch I would just cut off the rope in half to get a 25' section with the factory spliced end on it and respool the rope.
     
  10. roalco

    roalco

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    That's it exactly, and if you are in the field and don't have a swage machine, secure the tail ( once the eye is completely wrapped, wrap the two ends back together to make a tail, (say 2 to 3" long for 3/8 wire rope) and secure it to the standing line (before the eye) by a cable clamp (saddle over the standing line) or by lashing or seizing. This'll give you about 90% of the cables strength.
    Figure 3-33.—Fold back eye and pressed metal sleeve.
    Always carry a few cable clamps for the size of wire rope you have.... very handy in a pinch!
    If you don't have a thimble, just make the eye and use a large shackle at the end, the large diameter of the shackle pin or body will soften the radius of the cable eye under load. You don't want the cable to kink over a small diameter fixture point!
     
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