whats wrong here (pic) (1 Viewer)

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snap a pic of the steering arms if you would please.

Commonly, on aftermarket hysteer arms there are two holes on the PS arm (one for the tie rod and one for the draglink) It is a nice way of getting rid of the Tie rod mounted draglink.


I'll find a pic.

Here


hs_forged_kt_200.jpg


forged_arms_200.jpg
 
Last edited:
Mace said:
snap a pic of the steering arms if you would please.

Commonly, on aftermarket hysteer arms there are two holes on the PS arm (one for the tie rod and one for the draglink) It is a nice way of getting rid of the Tie rod mounted draglink.


I'll find a pic.

Here


hs_forged_kt_200.jpg


forged_arms_200.jpg


the one with 6 holes looks cooler
 
blue torch fab sell threaded inserts and tube that fits them.. so if i could find the thread sizes of the 40 and chevy sag TRE i could figure out which inserts to get then get tubing from them as well... just a thought
 
Why yes, yes you could ;)

Although, it is typically hard to get Metric weld in inserts.



Those look a lot like the old All pro arms. It also looks like the TRE is not in the arm well either. Wiggle the Tie rod and see if there is any play in the Tie rod/steering arm interface.

Also, is there enough room to punch another hole in the pass steering arm?
 
nah there def isn't enough room to do that... i wouldn't mind shelling out the money for the marlin crawler hysteer ones but i gotta buy new tres, new tie rods, and paint all this week... so whats my freaking option? considering i just realized they don't have metric weld in inserts?
 
it would be easy to open up the tapers in your arms to accomidate the GM TRE's.. Additionally, one of the GM tre's has a provision for a shock mount. Which also can be opened up for a GM tre...
 
A local machine shop that specalizes in auto work wanted $40 to re-taper a pitman arm to FJ80 for me. GM might be easier(cheaper) to do since it is more common.
 

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