Water Jacket Crud

[IDave]

So, when I went to fix things up following my blown head gasket event on my F engine, as I mentioned, I noticed that there was several inches of cement-like sedimentary crud built up at the rear of the engine, that had surrounded the #6 cylinder. It was such that the rearwardly located engine block drain was solidly occluded, and I wasn't even sure it was a drain until I checked a couple of other F engines. This crud undoubtably insulated the cylinder from the coolant, contributing substantially to the blown gasket.

In the process of my investigation, I discovered that my other F engine, which seized a couple of years ago, also had large amounts of crud occluding the same passageways.

Two engines, same issue. Is this chance? Have any of you other folk with F or 2F engine experience had this occur?

I know that I have fairly hard water at my home, and I wondered if the calcium carbonate/high pH might have contributed as well, so that is why I ask: do I need to use different water, or is the endemic to the F series?

This crud, by the way, was so nasty that it took digging for 45 minutes with screwdrivers from 2 directions, the drain and the holes in the back of the block under the head, to get the block to drain at all (and more cleanup once the dam burst). No way to drain the block without removing the head.

 

[folsom50]

I don't have any ideas as to why there is such a build up in the rear of both blocks, but if I where you, I'd use distilled water when you fill the cooling system back up.

 

[1Fine40]

When I had a 2F, I did notice a similar situation on it....I now have a 350, but I have used only distilled water and coolant in it since the install...passages appear good, but of course, I could only see in past the water pump mounts a little when I changed the pump...I'm thinking that the #5 and 6 cylinders may not get the coolant in as good a condition as the more forward cylinders??? More heat = more deposits??

 

[Landpimp]

my F motor block drain don't drain either I did check all the cylinders/head to see if they were running at the same temp and they were all close, not sure if that really tells me much.............guess if I can't clean it out from the outside I aint gonna bother........need an excuse for a 2f anyway

 

[IDave]

That's interesting, John H. I bet it is a common issue then. I'm going to go with Folsom's suggestion and use distilled water. Cheap insurance. I'm also going to make a point to flush the water jacket often.

 

[Landpimp]

out of all my f/2f/3fe's..................only the(any my only running) F motor(93K) is like that, the rest drain no problem, even the one with 340,000 on it.

That's interesting, John H. I bet it is a common issue then. I'm going to go with Folsom's suggestion and use distilled water. Cheap insurance. I'm also going to make a point to flush the water jacket often.

 

[Ming89FJ62]

There have been several posts by the 80"s group on a silver colored sludge that seems to be attributed to non-Toyo antifreeze and the aluminum in the coolant system (radiator, etc.). Maybe there's more to it than there appears.

Ming

 

[IDave]

I've run across those posts. The mysterious silver sludge. This stuff, though, is carbon black.

 

[Dave E]

plug

Can you post a pic of this plug you are speaking of? I'd like to check my engine.

Dave

 

[Landpimp]

on a f/2f or 3fe, its on the driverside of the block, kinda towards the firewall, you will see a 14mm(or maybe 17mm?) nut, unscrew(part way or all the way) to drain the block.

Can you post a pic of this plug you are speaking of? I'd like to check my engine.

Dave

 

[IDave]

Drain 1 is the square headed version that was installed in my Used Japanese engine from SOR.

Drain 2 is the more complicated version, that goes into the same hole, that came with my original engine, and an FJ55 I know.

 

[Poser]

I know that I have fairly hard water at my home, and I wondered if the calcium carbonate/high pH might have contributed as well...

I use distilled bottled water to mix with coolant....


Good luck!

-Steve

 

[Landpimp]

drain 2 is what all mine look like.

I use destiled as well, I got mucho minerals in my water.

Drain 1 is the square headed version that was installed in my Used Japanese engine from SOR.

Drain 2 is the more complicated version, that goes into the same hole, that came with my original engine, and an FJ55 I know.

 

[IDave]

I use distilled bottled water to mix with coolant....


Good luck!

-Steve

I've got the distilled ready to go. Not taking any chances.

 

[Hobbes1]

it's a general rule of automotive mechanic thumb to ALWAYS use distilled water. On many newer engines, they are designed advanced enough that a difference in cooling performance is negligible. BUT, the F and 2F aren't rocket science. There are specific coolants made to preserve and maintain aluminum parts such as heads, radiators and so on. From my experience, i've found that Honda coolant is far superior to other aluminum designed coolants on the market. Just recently they've made the bottles so that no water needs to be added. take it or leave it, but i'll always use Honda Green. Good luck -hobbes

 

[IDave]

I'm convinced, Hobbes. I wish to point out, however, that my head is cast iron....

 

[Dave E]

Flushing

Whats the best way to flush your coolant system? I have a half gallon of muratac acid. Do I mix this with water to a specific percentage? I have a sump pump that I can use with the heater hoses to flush it cold, or best to run it and flush it hot?

Thanks
Dave