Water Crossings

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you are not dense. you must, however, embrace the concept that sometimes **** does happen.


Rear bearings are often neglected. I intend to repack my ear bearings on a staggered basis every several years with my front hubs
In my case I do not know if those bearing have been repacked or replaced, but the grease was a little 'drippy', which is a clue something is not altogether right in there.

Land Cruiser rear hub/axle service, bearings, axle, seals, gasket etc - YouTube
 
Bearing can suffer rust only if moisture is introduced into the housing, that can be water that has entered through a wear in the seal/mating surface, rapid changes in climate/temperature, causing condensation to build up inside the housing, the usual stuff. It has nothing to do with off-roading, the frequency of it makes the vehicle more prone to it and even well maintained trucks, with good seals can get water damage in movable areas. You are dealing with a rather hot housing, entering a cold water stream. That causes both a rapid temperature change as well as a pressure change. Even with the differential venting properly it can still be affected. Add to that moving parts that can actually suck water by the rotation alone, a single bead of sand can get into the hub and fit between the seal and spindle and cause enough damage and let water in. So wheeling causes additional wear, and possibility of rust, and in turn the rust scoring the metal, even in situations where everything is nice and tight.
Full floaters are no more prone to it thatn semi-floating axles, all have the same moving components and each is designed with seals in appropriate places so minimize external influences.

Thanks for the explanation Mat. I think I get it now. It definitely makes sense if you got everything hot and then enter real cold water that water will get sucked in.

Rear bearings are often neglected. I intend to repack my ear bearings on a staggered basis every several years with my front hubs
In my case I do not know if those bearing have been repacked or replaced, but the grease was a little 'drippy', which is a clue something is not altogether right in there.

Land Cruiser rear hub/axle service, bearings, axle, seals, gasket etc - YouTube

On the Patrols (semifloater), the rears don't usually get touched unless the inner seal starts to leak. Most people do not have the right tools to press them off and press them back on let alone a big enough torque wrench and proper socket for the job. I ought to do mine on the 5 spd, because it is not something you can fix on the trail.
 
X2 on a good explanation. My rear axle is always like new but the front has been a challenge, I have decided to worry less about it and change fluids a bit more often. I have also had issues with the front bearings needing periodic re tightening. Annoying to be sure...
 
Big tires wear wheel bearings and so they need adjustment much more often than regulate DD boots.

Sounds like if you had a real axle issue with a Patrol you would have difficulty getting it fix on a remote trail.
 
On average a semi-floating axle is more of a pain to service than a full floating one, even though the full floating one has more bearings.
A semi-float needs to have the diff cover removed, the pillow block removed and the axles pushed in to remove the C-clips (which also requires the removal of the tires and brake drum for proper space).
And of course if the bearing is shot or the axle is damaged you are not driving home in any way.
Full float is better in all applications, but more expensive to make and has more parts. Although, one issue I always had with full float is the lack of a removable diff cover, for inspection reasons or if the axle snaps in a way that makes the removal of the diff or the axle not possible in traditional ways.
 
Are all the Toyota semi-floaters C clipped? I've a feeling that while more needs to come apart, that would be a lot easier to deal with on the trail.

I think the best solution with a Patrol semi-floater on a long trail run is to carry a spare axle with a fully serviced bearing pressed on it with a couple spare inner seals. Inner seals have a habit of getting nicked if you aren't real careful sliding the axle shaft back in. Other than the special tools required for the bearing itself, it is dead simple compared to the front axle. I am still looking for a parts rig so I can carry all the spares I think I could need.
 
Are all the Toyota semi-floaters C clipped? I've a feeling that while more needs to come apart, that would be a lot easier to deal with on the trail.

.


Yes, at least all the 'cruiser ones anyways.
 
I service my FF rear bearings at the same interval as I do my front. The rears for the most part seem to be in better shape (grease) than the fronts. Not sure why, maybe its just the migration of Moly from the birfs.

Full Floaters are the way to got IMO, very easy to work on and take the load off the axles. We are planing on getting one for Gavins HJ60 as soon as funds are available.
 
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