VSV, what else while the intake is off?

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WOOOOOOOHOOOOOOO!

VSV replaced. Took about an hour. Removed the brace holding the intake (bottom bolt was hard to get to). Ratcheting box end wrench got the first bolt. LONG extensions got the second bolt from underneath. Reached my hand in/under the intake to remove the hose that goes towards the firewall. Too tight. Got a long screwdriver and gently pried it off. Did the same for the hose going towards the engine valve cover. Gently pulled it out and disconnected the wires. One screw removed VSV from bracket. Cleaned tube with carb cleaner. Reassembly was just the reverse.

A bit tight and some small scrapes on my hands, but nothing to complain about. Especially since that one hour and a few scrapes saved me $500!

Haven't started it up yet, but will here in a bit..

Thanks to all for the input!!
 
There is a simple VSV test with an ohmeter to see if it is bad. I don't recall the values but they are in the FSM. Let me know if you want me to post the test procedure. That will give you some level of confidence that your problem is resolved. Mine was waaaaaay out of spec.

Later....

Testing_VSV.jpg


-B-
 
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My EGR-VSV is only bad when hot. While cool it works. Coil resistance is about 30 to 40 ohms when cool and shows and open circuit when hot. Once I get it out of there, I’m going to take it apart to see how the coil is failing.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by StressPuppy
I guess I get to live with the infamous P0401 for a little bit longer!

No worries. I lived with P0401 off and on for ~1yr. Cleaned EGR VM and it went away for 2 weeks. Replaced EGR VM and it went away for 1 month. Cleaned EGR valve and it went away for 2 months. Replaced EGR valve and it went away for 4 months. Grieved, whined, and moped while resetting the MIL over so often, for 5 months. Then replaced the VSV for EGR and it's been over 4 years without the P0401 (knock-on-wood.) :bounce:

-B-
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It really pays to read this again -- several times!!!

What Beowulf is saying is correct - I followed his advice exactly and got rid of my PO401 last year. You certainly do not have to remove the plenum to replace the VSV for EGR ... unless of course you just enjoy a challenge ... like having sex standing up in a canoe. A long extension(s) bar from under neath and a ratcheting box from up top gets the bolts off (after you remove the brace IIRC) check the messages from Beowulf to confirm the steps...
 
when I did mine a couple weeks ago, I went from the top, and took the throttle body off to get to the VSV, and it was no problem (once I realized I'd removed the wrong part). Plus side there was my t-body was in horrible shape dirty wise.

got 800 ish miles on now, 200 in town 450 hwy, and 100 off road. No codes and at 200 miles into a tank rather than the light coming on I still have 1/4 of a tank left!
 
hows the ease of putting the hoses back to their respective tubes? seems like its easy enough to just yank them out...but putting back in...difficult with medium sized hands?
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mostly fiddly but not a huge problem...I recall one hose that slipped off and I didn''t notice till I stuck a small inspection mirror into the space around the VSV for EGR and spied it... tricky devils. Was a while ago but I think I may have used needle nosed pliers with tape wrapped around the jaws to avoid damaging the hoses. I had purchased lengths of new hose as well just in case fwiw
 
d0ubledown said:
hows the ease of putting the hoses back to their respective tubes? seems like its easy enough to just yank them out...but putting back in...difficult with medium sized hands?
Click to expand...

Not that hard if you're smart about it. Don't just rip them off and chuck them in a pile :doh:. I took off a piece or two at a time, cut a new piece to replace it with and stuck it in position so I didn't get confused as to what went where. Some silicone spray helps if you can get it down between the pipe nipple and the rubber hose, but it also makes the outside of the hoses pretty slippery! I did have trouble with the hose that connects to the pipe running through the intake manifold (the pipe NLXTACY stores a drill bit in :lol:). The piece of hose that runs from the bottom nipple on the manifold to the VSV for EGR decided it really liked being attached to the manifold. I ended up tearing the hose off and a piece stayed stuck to the nipple. I was able to use a long flathead screwdriver and some silicone spray to work it off the nipple, allowing me to put another hose back on.

I have large hands and I was able to replace the VSV for EGR and all the rubber hoses under the intake manifold without removing the intake or throttlebody. It wasn't pretty or painless, but it was less involved than removing the upper intake IMO.
 
Here is my notes ... NB these were as a result of FIRST studying Beowulf and Rookie2's excellent messages on the subject extensively !!!

VSV R&R (from the side ...eg intake manifold and throttle body "on" the engine)
  • removed the intake support bracket top and bottom bolts ... used a "wobbly" and extension on the bottom bolt and it came out easy.
  • working throught the side of the manifold I used a metric gear wrench on the front VSV bracket bolt and several (4 or 5 ??) extensions working from underneath the vehicle to remove the rear bracket bolt as described elsewhere. Worked like a charm - No Problem there.
  • Working through the side of the manifold opening - removing the electric connector from the VSV was a real nuisance... tough bugger till it finally "let loose" ... I think you need to push the connectors together a little bit .. then squeeze the tab real hard and it releases ..in my case was a PITA as I was afraid of breaking the wires etc from the connector.
  • removed two hoses from VSV .. one is on a curved piece of tube that is attached to and winds around the VSV bracket..the hose on this tube follows the curve for a bit and needs "persuasion" with a pair of needle nose pliers.(I wrapped them in tape to avoid tearing the hose)
  • VSV with bracket then comes out of its hiding spot and the new VSV gets screwed on...a little PB Blaster encourages the VSV to bracket retaining screw to come off the bracket and some "no-seize" helps the screw back in (in case I have to do this again)
  • I replaced all the vaccuum hoses except the one on the curved tube as that rubber hose also curved up under the rear of the intake plenum and I could not tell exactly where it ended or get a satisfactory grip on the upper end to ensure I would not tear it.
  • Replacing the VSV with bracket attached is same same ... but watch out for a larger vacuum hose that runs from under the intake manifold to a "T" connection ... in my case that larger vacuum hose came off the "T" as I was pulling the VSV bracket out ... the "T" is also connected to the rear, smaller hose on the VSV for EGR. The front VSV bracket bolt gets started by hand then later tightened with the gear wrench...the back bolt is secured with the extensions reaching up from underneath as before for removal.
  • The bottom bolt on the Manifold supporting bracket is fiddly but the "wobbly" helps to tighten it securely.
 
This weekend, between the rainstorms we had here, I took a look at what would be involved for me to attack the VSV replacement without removing the intake plenum and I don't think I can squeeze my 2xl mitts in there...hell, I can barely see where the VSV lives let alone reach it. :crybaby:

it looks like I'll be pulling the intake to get to the damned thing :mad:
 
NorCalDoug said:
This weekend, between the rainstorms we had here, I took a look at what would be involved for me to attack the VSV replacement without removing the intake plenum and I don't think I can squeeze my 2xl mitts in there...hell, I can barely see where the VSV lives let alone reach it. :crybaby:

it looks like I'll be pulling the intake to get to the damned thing :mad:
Click to expand...

I was able to get in with my paws using the throttle body removal method. Couple of gear wrenches to undo the bolts and it falls out where you can get to the lines. Much easier and quicker than removing the whole intake. Good time to clean the TB anyway.
 
Happy to report that AJP’s method of “no major disassembly” described in his Sept 29, 2009 post to replace the pesky-VSV still works like a charm!
You must do this quest by entering the tiny “VSV Cave of Despair” located under the intake runner.
Be sure to follow AJPs steps, they do work.
The following are a couple of tips to complement AJPs fine writeup:
1) Mark the 2 hoses and take note where they attach to the VSV. Look at your new VSV for reference too.
2) After both bolts on the bracket are removed, carefully pull the bracket with VSV attached out from under the intake runner (aka “Cave of Despair” ) and undo the single Philips head holding the VSV to the bracket.
3) Now with the bracket off, it‘s easier to remove the hoses. Use a screwdrivers edge to push the hose off, don’t try to pull- they only get tighter.
4) Next undo the electrical connector by squeezing the “bump” tab thingy on one side in toward the center. It come off easily once you get the hang of it.
5) Assembly in the reverse of above. The trickiest part was starting the front VSV bracket bolt. You have to reach in under the intake runner, in that little pocket and you can just barely have enough room. Way easier to do this by first installing the rear bracket bolt, as AJP describes, from under the truck, with a socket on a long extension.

ooh- and before I forget, no need to fully remove the lower bolt on the “intake support bracket” , just get it loose enough to swivel the top of the intake support bracket away from the “VSV cave of despair”.

I have size XL hands and was able to do this, you can too!!
 
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