howdee alll...
sadly ive been a troller too too long....as you all have helped me out with my full car audio install (headunit, speakers, amp wiring), my brake pad replacement, my busted alternator belt (thank go we have two), and now my valve cover gasket....
tis about time - i give back...so here we go...
first any basic garage head with sockets, screwdriver, pliers, mallet, and degreaser supplies can do this....no special tools need.
first things first - remove the air filter et. all (3x 12 mm bolts) as well as the enitre ducting to the throttle body (screw clamps) and doe forget to unplug the MAF harness.
next remove the throttle body (4x 12 mm bolts) 2 on top two below - there are several hoses to disconnect too as well as the electrical harness plugs (3x)- watch for the gasket to fall off (hopefully you bought a new one) - you need not remove anymore cables - simply gently place the throttle body in the engine bay opening left by the removal of the air filter et. al.
now to the valve cover....
2 hoses on top - easy removal - either undo or pinch the clamp.
now remove the bolts cover up the spark plugs - (4x 10mm) - i say bolts as they might have phillps slots - but dont bother - you will just strip them out as i did.
easy breasy so far right ???
the covers off - you will see you spark plug connectors - harnessed are screwed to the valve cover - unscrew...
now you can use a long fatty flat head to pry up each spark plug connector...as you will see the connector are some 2-3 inches long - thus the very last connector you have to do slowly and get it out at a acute angle as space is tight near the fire wall...
plug connectors our - as i didnt need to change the wire at all - i left the entire harness intact and neatly placed the wires behind the car battery....
ok now on to the valve cover itself....there 10x 10 mm bolts.
(if you need replacements as i did - home depot sells m6 -1.0 x 20 mm bolts - they have a smaller head diameter (8 mm vs. 10 mm) but fit just fine....
the hardest to reach bolt is (facing the car) the back right. towards the fire wall at dead center - is some sort of hose assembly - it unbolts (10mm and 12mm) and gives you just enough wiggle to make room to slide your socket with a 10" extender on this last bolt. otherwise - as you have removed the throttle body - you have full access to the right side bolts.
bolts undone - gently pry up the valve cover...i used a putty knife to get it going then leverage took over...
valve cover off - note the orientation of the gasket before you just yank it out...there are two tabs - one small and one large -
- take out the spark plug grommets (noting their orientation as they are not indexable) - i used a big phatty flat head with a rag and was able to gently pry / work them out - you indeed may seem them to already be perished...all of mine were cracked in some way. the PCR valve itself comes out - as i replace mine - brute force and a pair of vice grips did the work...
the PCR gromet well that was a chore it broke apart and i basically had to need nose it and take it out piece by piece...keep in the back for the PCR opening is enclosed - so one cannot just push it out to the back side.
now comes long part...cleaning...mine had much carbon deposits...think tarter on teeth...on thing that gets it out is elbow grease and tons of simple green....
after i was done cleaning i rinsed it out with my garden hose, dry it with a cloth and my air compressor then put it out in the sun to dry completely - after about a 1/2 hour i hit it again with my air compressor - to make sure there were not dirt or bits of grommets and then went to the spark plug valves.
again - making note of thier direction as the will go in either way....i simply used a little 5w-30 pushed then in my hand then with a extra large socket and a rubber mallet and gently coaxed them in 100 %. no issues at all the.
the PCR grommet was the same - a little dab of 5w-30 the grommet sets in and the PCR valve itself you can easily push in with you hand....
install the gasket itself is straight forward - it really only goes in one way and with some tugging and stretch and gentle tapping - once in the groove it is secure and wont flop out....
from here it just everything in reverse...cover back one....tighten cover screws (criss cross patter to ensure uniform pressure) - insert spark plug leads, spark plug cover back on, throttle body reattach...etc....
one final tip - reinstall you might want to use the old tape bolts to the socket head trick as that pesky right back bolt and the bottom throttle body screws can easily fall into the engine on re-install...
all in all aside from cleaning and scrubbing time and a home depot run for replacement screws- after reviewing previous posts - for me it was a 45 - 60 min job. well well worth the dirty hands and scraped knuckles - considering the dealer quoted me $650.00
hope this is helpful to someone....
any questions at all - just give me a holler...
many thanks to previous posters and cdan for the parts...
bf
sadly ive been a troller too too long....as you all have helped me out with my full car audio install (headunit, speakers, amp wiring), my brake pad replacement, my busted alternator belt (thank go we have two), and now my valve cover gasket....
tis about time - i give back...so here we go...
first any basic garage head with sockets, screwdriver, pliers, mallet, and degreaser supplies can do this....no special tools need.
first things first - remove the air filter et. all (3x 12 mm bolts) as well as the enitre ducting to the throttle body (screw clamps) and doe forget to unplug the MAF harness.
next remove the throttle body (4x 12 mm bolts) 2 on top two below - there are several hoses to disconnect too as well as the electrical harness plugs (3x)- watch for the gasket to fall off (hopefully you bought a new one) - you need not remove anymore cables - simply gently place the throttle body in the engine bay opening left by the removal of the air filter et. al.
now to the valve cover....
2 hoses on top - easy removal - either undo or pinch the clamp.
now remove the bolts cover up the spark plugs - (4x 10mm) - i say bolts as they might have phillps slots - but dont bother - you will just strip them out as i did.
easy breasy so far right ???
the covers off - you will see you spark plug connectors - harnessed are screwed to the valve cover - unscrew...
now you can use a long fatty flat head to pry up each spark plug connector...as you will see the connector are some 2-3 inches long - thus the very last connector you have to do slowly and get it out at a acute angle as space is tight near the fire wall...
plug connectors our - as i didnt need to change the wire at all - i left the entire harness intact and neatly placed the wires behind the car battery....
ok now on to the valve cover itself....there 10x 10 mm bolts.
(if you need replacements as i did - home depot sells m6 -1.0 x 20 mm bolts - they have a smaller head diameter (8 mm vs. 10 mm) but fit just fine....
the hardest to reach bolt is (facing the car) the back right. towards the fire wall at dead center - is some sort of hose assembly - it unbolts (10mm and 12mm) and gives you just enough wiggle to make room to slide your socket with a 10" extender on this last bolt. otherwise - as you have removed the throttle body - you have full access to the right side bolts.
bolts undone - gently pry up the valve cover...i used a putty knife to get it going then leverage took over...
valve cover off - note the orientation of the gasket before you just yank it out...there are two tabs - one small and one large -
- take out the spark plug grommets (noting their orientation as they are not indexable) - i used a big phatty flat head with a rag and was able to gently pry / work them out - you indeed may seem them to already be perished...all of mine were cracked in some way. the PCR valve itself comes out - as i replace mine - brute force and a pair of vice grips did the work...
the PCR gromet well that was a chore it broke apart and i basically had to need nose it and take it out piece by piece...keep in the back for the PCR opening is enclosed - so one cannot just push it out to the back side.
now comes long part...cleaning...mine had much carbon deposits...think tarter on teeth...on thing that gets it out is elbow grease and tons of simple green....
after i was done cleaning i rinsed it out with my garden hose, dry it with a cloth and my air compressor then put it out in the sun to dry completely - after about a 1/2 hour i hit it again with my air compressor - to make sure there were not dirt or bits of grommets and then went to the spark plug valves.
again - making note of thier direction as the will go in either way....i simply used a little 5w-30 pushed then in my hand then with a extra large socket and a rubber mallet and gently coaxed them in 100 %. no issues at all the.
the PCR grommet was the same - a little dab of 5w-30 the grommet sets in and the PCR valve itself you can easily push in with you hand....
install the gasket itself is straight forward - it really only goes in one way and with some tugging and stretch and gentle tapping - once in the groove it is secure and wont flop out....
from here it just everything in reverse...cover back one....tighten cover screws (criss cross patter to ensure uniform pressure) - insert spark plug leads, spark plug cover back on, throttle body reattach...etc....
one final tip - reinstall you might want to use the old tape bolts to the socket head trick as that pesky right back bolt and the bottom throttle body screws can easily fall into the engine on re-install...
all in all aside from cleaning and scrubbing time and a home depot run for replacement screws- after reviewing previous posts - for me it was a 45 - 60 min job. well well worth the dirty hands and scraped knuckles - considering the dealer quoted me $650.00
hope this is helpful to someone....
any questions at all - just give me a holler...
many thanks to previous posters and cdan for the parts...
bf
