V8 heater issue

[Bennett]

What would be an effective way to deal with the heater outlet clearance issue on a V8 conversion 76FJ40?
As you can see in the picture the tolerance to the back of the valve cover inhibits a clean connection to the sbc.
I can get a hose on but it rubs ... I have seen many V8 that just ignore the problem and let it rub.
What would be a good alternative and retain the stock heater core?

Also I need a new heater valve as mine is leaking at where the rod opens and closes the valve.... any thoughts on a upgrade or replacement?
$75 for a replacement at CCOT... and a poor design IMO.


berg

soory about the crosspost
better picture here
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295930


How come I can only post a picture 6.4k or smaller?

 

[MarkFJ40]

Elliminate it and run the heater hoses directly to the heater core through the firewall.
I also have a different kind of valve that I got at Princess Auto(industrial and farm store) in line to turn the coollant flow off in the summer time.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

Head for the pick n pull and look for a hose with a pre-formed bend. I wouldn't want to cram a hose on there that's gonna put stress on the heater core pipes. That's just asking for a busted and leaking system IMHO. Don't forget the motor is gonna be moving around right next to any hose you put on there. Maybe you could cut that straight section off and solder in an elbow then solder the cut straight section back on in a better position? Then you could use standard heater hose by the foot...

Nick Jennings

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Ken I pulled mine out, went to home depot and got a 1/2" ball valve and ran that. Looks slick, I'm also going to use my old hood latch underhood to open and close it for incab control but you could do that with the cable that currently controls the valve.. Took some time and work (last night) to get it all plumbed up though... Front and rear heaters! Need it today with 2'+ of snow up here!

 

[secretagent]

i ran the hoses directly to the heater core from the motor, eliminating the copper tubes. I also used a new 77 Bronco heater control valve, it was only $22 and works with the stock fj cable.