Update on Bruce - and I need an opinion

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S

sandcrawler

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Oct 12, 2005
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So after some soul searching I've been going through my punch list on Bruce - I got the pipe welded up last week and this weekend I tore into the differential to get the rear axle seal replaced. So here's my current delimma - I installed an Aussie Locker last year (which while not difficult is kinda annoying). To replace the axle seal I had to take it out...

After inspecting the axle (the driver's side) I'm pretty sure that there's a groove worn in it that's causing the failure. I'm not sure I want to wait to get a new or used axle (and not sure I want to pay for it) so I'm thinking about NOT reinstalling the Aussie at this time - I'll just go back to the open rear diff. My main rational for this is that I don't want to re-install it knowing that I'll have to tear into it again in the summer...

What would you guys do under the same circumstances?

Other than replacing the seal, putting on new brake shoes, installing the front calipers and pads, and doing the front shocks, that's my main punch list.

I hope to have this wrapped up by this weekend...

Anywho, don't be shy with your opinions.... (I know you won't)​
 
well thanks for calling on it - as I said in the above post - I'm going to put it back together without the locker until I can figure out what to do with the rear axle - *perhaps* it won't fail again, but since I can physically feel a groove I don't have high hopes for that.

I'm more or less assuming that I can get it together, have it pass inspection, drive it over the winter then figure out what to do with it next summer since I know that I should do a T-case rebuild...
 
Ed: unless i'm mistaken, it looks like the rear seals listed on the Marlin Crawler site won't work with the FJ62 - at least it's not listed as an application on that page - I'll look more carefully tomorrow or shoot them an email.

I found some sources for the Speedi Sleeve but I need to do more research although that seems like a really good solution.

I'll do some more research on this over the next couple of days...
 
What are on ebay? speedi sleeves? axles?

be specific man!
 
axles, dude!! Just look under fj 60 or 62 axles. Think he wanted 89.00 bucks plus the trip. I would put a wanted ad on mud. I know their was a guy out eastern pa who had a lot fj 60 and 62 stuff he was trying to sale. I don't think I have his number. If I find it I will post it.
 
well i've ordered a speedi sleeve - i think after reviewing all of the options and figuring that i'd really like to NOT to have to tear into my rear axle again any time soon, that this should be a good permanent fix.

Of course I'll have to figure out just how to install this thing when I get it, but it shouldn't be TOO bad.

I still need to replace the front calipers and shocks...
 
how difficult is this?

So in removing my front calipers, I broke one of the bolts that hold the caliper to the hub.

Sooooooo........

How hard is it going to be to drill this out and tap it so I can use a new bolt?

I've not drilled and tapped anything before, so I'd like to know before hand if this is going to be a complete trial, or if it will be reasonably easy.

Thoughts?
 
sandcrawler said:
So in removing my front calipers, I broke one of the bolts that hold the caliper to the hub.

Sooooooo........

How hard is it going to be to drill this out and tap it so I can use a new bolt?

I've not drilled and tapped anything before, so I'd like to know before hand if this is going to be a complete trial, or if it will be reasonably easy.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Thoughts: rightey-tighty, lefty-loosey, man!!! :flipoff2:

Ok, nuff ballbustin, I'll try to be helpful now: If you use a regular bit, you will almost certainly cut threads and not drill perpendicular or centered. If you do that, you need to drill over-size and use a Heli-Coil.

Instead, you want something that's SELF-CENTERING to REVERSE drill it.: with self-centering you can realistically avoid cutting the threads; with reverse drilling you can actually draw the remains of the old bolt out as you drill. Search "drill out power extractor." It looks like even Sears sells somethin like em now... dunno the quality (it matters on these). Also see that it's the right size you need (it's probably an M10?).

BTW--douse it w/ PB blaster every chance you get between now and drill time. And during. And heat it up before you start too.


HTH. -Ed
 
Yeah, i'm not real good with that whole lefty righty thing...

Anyway, I did see that sears sells left-handed bits for just this sort of thing. I guess I'm also going to need a good electric drill for this project.

I'll head over to Sears this weekend and see what I can find.

I want to say that the bolt broke off about half way it - and over course it's on the back side of the hub so access will kinda suck.

It also has turned out that the hard brake line is not going to play nice either - I'm most likely going to have to order a new one of those too (the bolt connecting the hard line to the caliper is rounding off, and yes, I am using a claw-foot wrench). So I'm looking at that today (along with new bolts for the caliper).

And I will heat it up too (I guess i need to buy a torch for that).

I'll post how this goes.... LOL
 
Bruce

If you do need to tap, first make sure you use the correct size drill, metric is easy you subtract 1* the pitch from the major diameter, so say it's an M10 x 1.5, you need a 10-1.5 or 8.5mm drill.

When tapping the hole be sure to advance the tap by 1 turn and then back out by 1/2 a turn to get the chips out, less of a problem if you are re-tapping a hole but good practice all the same, if you don't you will discover how easy it is to break a tap.

Break the tap in the hole and you are into a world of hurt, hub off and then find a place to EDM the remains of the tap out.

A tap wrench is good to use, as an adjustable wrench puts all the pressure on one side of the tang and can snap the tap even easier, I have drills, taps and wrenches if you need them.
 
Update:

Because I'm a really slow worker, I've finally gotten around to attempting to drill out the caliper bolt. And I have failed miserably. While I managed to drill out most of the bolt with the power extractor, after I was this | | close to getting it out, the extractor broke. So now I'm left with the alternative of drilling out the bolt completely and tapping it. I saw the advice for doing this from Nick, and it looks like the biggest challenge will be access. It's tight behind the hub and I worry that I'm not going to be able to drill or tap the hole straight.

Any advice?

It's a bit much to be this close, yet so far.
 
If it is not your DD you could allways take the knuckle off and give it to me. I can put it in my mill and take it out and or re tap it.
 
The extractor did come out so that isn't an issue. I might consider the right hand drill since my regular drill just doesn't quite have the clearance.

If I can do it on the vehicle, then I will, but the nuclear option would be to take off the knuckle - if I do that then I'll also replace the rotors and do the whole knuckle service....

But I hope it doesn't come to that.

But thanks to both, I'll let you know what I need.
 
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