tubing bender

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Just for someone else reading this that may not be familiar, you want to use steel pipe, not iron. If it's galvanized, you'll need to grind the galvanized coating back at least 3/4" from the weld area. Not only is it poisonous, it will affect the integrity of the weld. For a given nominal size, schedule 40 and schedule 80 have the same OD, but 40 has a thinner wall than 80.

Keith, ask around if anyone knows a pipefitter. A good fitter can really help you learn to weld pipe, they do it all day long....
 
JD2 Harbor Freight

I used a JD2 for my cage. It's a wonderful piece of equipment.

I used a Harbor Freight bender to make my sliders. I've got about $40 in my sliders. Schedule 40 pipe. It will bend the pipe OK if you try not to make the bends too tight. It will still crinkle some, but you will see.

Mace is right, probably don't want it for a cage, but then again, It would have to be 1000 times better than a factory roll bar bolted down to the sheet metal.

JR
 
Mace,
Since you mentioned it, I did do a pretty half assed job at cleaning the pipe. Beveled the ends and went to town.
I forgot about that clear coating they put on that stuff.

BTW, PICS of your wrap bar!!!! PLEEEEZE :D

Tony,
Yes, it is schedule 40 steel. Ill ding -dong around with it while my parts come in, since I have some free time.
Ill see if I can weld it, then Ill think about being ambitious and bending it.

Chicago
 
In ely Drilling holes in the ground right now :)

Pics this weekend if I remember ;)
 
Thanks boss,
I really curious to see what you did. Ive been out screwing around trying to fab something up for a x member. I got some 2x4 .120 square stock for free and some 1/4 in plate material. I came up with soemthing, but It just didnt look like it would cut the mustard. But I think I figured an alternative that will work well. The only problem is, that I have to run on the bottom of the frame rail, and the member hangs down beneath it.
Ill do a show and tell when i get a bit further along.

Thanks,

Chicago
 
2 bad,
Is that bolted on,or welded to the frame?
I was getting a little squirrly about haning down under the frame rail like that, but if its worked for you so far...
I was looking at that option like you have there, but the only way I could mount it, is to weld it, or run plate under the brake lines and bolt it front to back, which may be an option!
I want the ability to remove it if needed.

Thanks,
This helped quite a bit.

Chicago
 
chicago said:
2 bad,
Is that bolted on,or welded to the frame?
I was getting a little squirrly about haning down under the frame rail like that, but if its worked for you so far...
I was looking at that option like you have there, but the only way I could mount it, is to weld it, or run plate under the brake lines and bolt it front to back, which may be an option!
I want the ability to remove it if needed.

Thanks,
This helped quite a bit.

Chicago
Click to expand...

it's bolted, the underside of the 60 frame has holes with nuts on the inside of the frame.
your doing this on a 40 right?
drill some 1/4" holes to mount it.
 
2badfjs said:
it's bolted, the underside of the 60 frame has holes with nuts on the inside of the frame.
your doing this on a 40 right?
drill some 1/4" holes to mount it.
Click to expand...

Actually, no, its a 62.
do they actually have holes with nuts already welded inside the frame? If they do, that would make this so much easier.

do you have any pics of the ends of that x member, where it bolted into the frame?

Chicago
 
2badfjs said:
JUST GO HOME, i'll get some pics and post monday a.m.
Click to expand...

Ill be GOING HOME in December for x mas! Gonna eat some of Granny Hansen's home cooking, Lou Malnattis pizza, roast beef sandwich from Portillo's and some Gyros from the little joint down the street from my dad's house...1 lb of meat off the spigot for $4.50! I CANT WAIT! Im hungry just thinking about it. There is NOTHING like Chicago style food!

Chicago
 
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