Transmission cooler bypass (not radiator) for 1998 LC

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Dec 2, 2006
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Location
North Mississippi
After gentle wash of the AC condenser and Transmission fluid cooler (sits in front of A/C condenser) I noticed some new discoloration on fins of transmission cooler (leak?). I haven't started up truck since changing radiator (waiting on rear heater bypass hoses) or the cleaning of the condenser/cooler, so may be nothing of concern. However, if I discover a trans fluid leak - is there significant harm if I just bypass the cooler and just leave trans fluid lines attached to bottom of new radiator. I assume radiator lines heat trans fluid for colder days... thoughts welcomed if anyone wants to provide input. I don't tow with truck - just occasional buzz around town.
 
I’m not sure anyone has operated like that for a significant amount of time.

Do you have a gauge to monitor the transmission fluid temperature? If so, you could certainly give it a try.

I would caution that the transmission cooler is the primary means of cooling the fluid. The section in the bottom of the radiator is just a pre-cooling section. It may be sufficient for your needs, but it may not and could cook the fluid.
 
I’m not sure anyone has operated like that for a significant amount of time.

Do you have a gauge to monitor the transmission fluid temperature? If so, you could certainly give it a try.

I would caution that the transmission cooler is the primary means of cooling the fluid. The section in the bottom of the radiator is just a pre-cooling section. It may be sufficient for your needs, but it may not and could cook the fluid.
Thanks for input - I don't have a temp guage. If I find that I end up need one I think I will just buy aftermarket - not much to these cooler units from what I can see.
 
You're fine to temporarily bypass the transmission cooler if you aren't towing. Some markets don't even come with a transmission cooler. IIRC, there is also a A/T temp overheat alert on the dash.
 
Both answers in here are half right, so to split the difference: on the 100 the radiator section is a pre cooler and the stack in front of the condenser is the main cooler. Running only the radiator section around town in mild weather will not immediately hurt anything — the A343F will live at reasonable temps at light load — but the margin is gone the second you're in stop and go on a hot day, on a grade, or with any load, and heat is what kills these transmissions. There's no A/T temp warning you can rely on as an early alert either; by the time you'd notice, the fluid has already been cooked. Before you decide, confirm you actually have a leak. Discoloration on the fins after a wash is very often just the residue that has been sitting on there for years plus the oily film that everything up front picks up. Wipe it clean, run the truck to temp, then look at the cooler and the two line fittings with a light — real cooler leaks show at the tube-to-tank ends or as a wet fin bloom that comes right back. You can also pressure test it off the truck with shop air and a bucket of water if you want to be sure. If it is leaking, the OEM cooler is still available and a used one from a parted truck is cheap. If you go aftermarket, get a plate and fin unit rather than a tube and fin, mount it in the same airflow path, and keep the flow direction the same. Bypassing entirely is fine as a get-home measure, not as the plan.
 
No destructive harm but just need to understand how fluid movement works:
• additional length = more fluid = additional resistance to move the fluid around the system.
• the cooling fins is only as effective if we can direct the air flow effectively towards the fins which will cool the fluid down (mounting location and shroud design is equally important).
• if the outcome of significant lower temperatures outweighs the cost.
 
Both answers in here are half right, so to split the difference: on the 100 the radiator section is a pre cooler and the stack in front of the condenser is the main cooler. Running only the radiator section around town in mild weather will not immediately hurt anything — the A343F will live at reasonable temps at light load — but the margin is gone the second you're in stop and go on a hot day, on a grade, or with any load, and heat is what kills these transmissions. There's no A/T temp warning you can rely on as an early alert either; by the time you'd notice, the fluid has already been cooked. Before you decide, confirm you actually have a leak. Discoloration on the fins after a wash is very often just the residue that has been sitting on there for years plus the oily film that everything up front picks up. Wipe it clean, run the truck to temp, then look at the cooler and the two line fittings with a light — real cooler leaks show at the tube-to-tank ends or as a wet fin bloom that comes right back. You can also pressure test it off the truck with shop air and a bucket of water if you want to be sure. If it is leaking, the OEM cooler is still available and a used one from a parted truck is cheap. If you go aftermarket, get a plate and fin unit rather than a tube and fin, mount it in the same airflow path, and keep the flow direction the same. Bypassing entirely is fine as a get-home measure, not as the plan.
Man - thanks for input! I reassembled truck yesterday and ran it pretty hard - thankfully no leaks anywhere.
 
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