Transfer case rear output shaft bearing question.

[nfranco]

Here was what was making the bad sound.

The old races came out of their retainers with very little force, two small taps from hammer and drift.
The new bearing on the rear of the rear output shaft I was able to push in with just hand pressure, once it was in I wasn't able to move it with my bare hands but again two taps and it was out.
I would have thought that these would be in quite firmly as the FSM shows pullers being used to remove them.

And on to the question.
The bearings and bearing retainers show no signs of the bearing spinning in the retainer so is this light a fit OK?

It make it 237,000 miles like this so far but I'm used to transmission bearings having to be removed with more force.
Thank you all.
nick

 

[Spike Strip]

Yes. Easy out/in depending on relative temps of the race and the housing. Has to be an easy thing because that's how you adjust the preload.

 

[fahedsharif]

what did the sound actually sound like?
im hearing sounds from underneath, and i cant seem to figure it out

 

[nfranco]

Spike Strip, thanks, I'd hate to have to do this again.
I was eyeing some of the Loctite bearing retaining products, some are non permanent, can stand temps up to 300 degrees and are oil resistant. (Loctite 603)
I'm going to consult a Loctite rep.

Fahedsharif, the sound was a whiring sound that was a little higher pitched than the regular gear noise.
It was louder on deceleration than acceleration and increased with vehicle speed not engine rpm.
No vibrations other than the usual.
Not a sloshing sound

 

[Spike Strip]

Loctite? For what?

 

[nfranco]

I was considering the loctite to help the fit of the bearing to the retainer but if it's not an issue I won't worry about it.
Assembly today, hopefully no surprises!
More dumb questions to follow I'm sure.

 

[TexasJack]

nfranco,

How difficult was this to do? Do you have photos of your work. I have the same problem and I know it is the rear output bearings because I listened to the front axle, rear axle, then both with the drive shafts disconnected (one at a time) and then to the transfer case. The noise is definitely coming from the rear output bearing on very light decelleration. I am anxious to fix the problem but I am curious about how long it took you to perform the work. I am also interested to know if you had to adjust the shims. Are they even visible when you remove the rear nose cone?

 

[TEXASYETI]

nfranco,

How difficult was this to do? I am anxious to fix the problem but I am curious about how long it took you to perform the work. I am also interested to know if you had to adjust the shims. Are they even visible when you remove the rear nose cone?

It's not too bad. Helpful to have a small beam-type torque wrench to use for checking preload. I use a little Park tool wrench mostly used for bicycles - and land cruiser t-cases. AFAIK, the shims are in the nosecone underneath the bearing race - it has been awhile.

I did have to reshim the bearing after redoing my t-case. Went ahead and ordered a couple shims from my Toyota dealer to have on hand.

OH! VERY helpful to have a factory service manual when doing this. Torque measures, thread sealer on some bolts, assembly order, etc.

 

[nfranco]

I second everything Texasyeti said.
No pictures, sorry.
Did the rebuild in two hour shifts at night, took 5 nights but half of those hours were spent cleaning the cases.
237,000 miles of crap were caked on.
If you don't have the FSM look up member SpikeStrip and in his sig line are manuals to download.
I was lucky and didn't need to re shim.
Specter off road sells a kit with 4 shims, not sure what sizes.

 

[SpenserAK]

Throwing this out there, no need for more threads. Re: sound, I’m getting a squeak/squeal from the driveline in the last week or so, and haven’t had time to get into it (moving to new house, work etc).

97 LX, auto of course

It’s intermittent but is fairly regular. Corresponds with speed (slower = slower chirp, faster = faster chirp or squeak/squeal). Only seems to happen when on the gas, but stops when coasting, so a difference in pressure/tension on the shafts/etc. Also seems like it starts kicking in after I’ve driven a little bit, but haven’t noticed it when first driving.

Thoughts on the sound? Roughly center of vehicle, far as I can tell with the door open. Driving feel is the same, but maybe starting to feel a light vibration under acceleration from slow speed, separate from the fact I need a DC front shaft which is more of a highway vibration thing.

Going to check everything when I can, grease ujoints again/etc, just hoping for a head start from someone who recognizes the sound. Each time to trigger the sound in these clips, I’m giving a little gas from a slower coast, between 10-25mph. More of a high pitched whine at higher speed, when it happens. Output shaft bearing? Doesn’t strike me as a ujoint sound, but that would make it easy.

 

[cps432]

Throwing this out there, no need for more threads. Re: sound, I’m getting a whir/squeak from the driveline in the last week or so, and haven’t had time to get into it (moving to new house, work etc).

It’s intermittent but is often. Corresponds with speed (slower = slower chirp, faster = faster chirp or squeak/squeal). Only seems to happen when on the gas, but stops when coasting, so a difference in pressure/tension on the shafts/etc. Also seems like it starts kicking in after I’ve driven a little bit, but haven’t noticed it when first driving.

Thoughts on the sound? Roughly center of vehicle. Driving feel is the same, but maybe starting to feel a light vibration under acceleration from slow speed, separate from the fact I need a DC front shaft.

Going to check everything when I can, grease ujoints again/etc, just hoping for a head start from someone who recognizes the sound. Each time to get the sound, I’m giving a little gas from a slow coast, between 10-25mph in these clips. More of a high pitched whine at higher speed, when it happens. Output shaft bearing?

That sounds like a throw out bearing. Maybe a pilot bearing. Goes away when clutch is engaged?

 

[SpenserAK]

Should have mentioned, it’s an auto

Edit: but I just realized this is the 60s forum. Google tricked me.

 

[cps432]

Should have mentioned, it’s an auto

Well that changes that. I’m a manual guy… you should start thinking about an H55F swapseriously.

 

[OSS]

When I was a young whippersnapper back in the day - I serviced my front wheel bearings, following all the steps in the manual.
Little did I suspect… I set the wheel bearing preload too tight.

Then I took off on a long ass trip to Mexico, and about a thousand miles into the trip I started hearing squeaking. Squeaking that sounded just like yours.

My squeaking was clearly coming from the front wheels, so when I got into camp, I re-tensioned the bearing preload - a lot less- and the squeaking went away forever.

While your squeaking may not be from your front wheels, that sound sounded awfully familiar to me.

 

[SpenserAK]

I do have an upcoming knuckle rebuild, but really just doing it for axle seals and wiper assembly. Wheel bearings aren’t very old and make no noise, but can’t imagine the PO used OEM/Koyo/etc, so starting fresh while I’m at it.

 

[TexasJack]

Get a set of chasis ears. Most good mechanics have one. Attach the ears to the transfer case (front and rear nose) and both diffs. Drive down the road while listening and change from ear from ear and you will hear where the sound is coming from. This will keep you from chasing ghosts and spending money on problems that don't exist.

I had Robbie Robinson from Boulder change the bearing in the rear nose of my transfer case based on what I was hearing using chasis ears. My rig had 200k on it when I did a 4 inch lift. The lift changed the angle the bearing was operating at and it quickly wore out. It was making noise and vibration. This is not uncommon when lifting a rig. The sound went away immediately. Best of luck!

 

[SpenserAK]

Thanks, I’ve been thinking I’ll see if a friend has a set of ears, then get my own if not.

Mine was lifted 4” in 2012, so certainly wouldn’t be surprised if it finally wore out!

 

[TexasJack]

Make sure you take a look at the u-joints on your drive shaft as well.

 

[SpenserAK]

Although I goofed and ended up here in the 60 section, may as well update.

Hoped it was just the joints, but the sound/behavior didn’t quite strike me as what I’ve experienced with that being the case in the past. Took rear shaft off and sure enough the front was iffy & rear-rear was shot - seals failed & definitely ate a few needle bearings. PO friend had replaced the originals, but I’m positive he just grabbed cheapos from oreillys, so they lived their 2-3 year lifespan. Greased them for now and no more sounds, new OEM on the way.

 

[cps432]

Although I goofed and ended up here in the 60 section, may as well update.

Hoped it was just the joints, but the sound/behavior didn’t quite strike me as what I’ve experienced with that being the case in the past. Took rear shaft off and sure enough the front was iffy & rear-rear was shot - seals failed & definitely ate a few needle bearings. PO friend had replaced the originals, but I’m positive he just grabbed cheapos from oreillys, so they lived their 2-3 year lifespan. Greased them for now and no more sounds, new OEM on the way.

Diff and T case issues are some of the most irritating. It's not like the replacment job is terribly difficult, it's just a whole lot of work and the symptoms present themselves in ways that can be difficult to diagnose. It's always nice to find out it's just the u joints.